I pulled up my carpet on the passenger side and I see the jute backing - but there is also some black hard brittle stuff under that formed to the floor pans >> is that sound deadening??? Should I try to save it or get rid of it? - Bill o No:
Ames as in Pontiac parts? Thanks - found it - paper-backed original style. Is that the best to use? - Bill
Bill I assume the newer synthetic type is better but I used the old stuff just to be original where possible.
Did you find the obligatory handful of nuts, bolts, and sheetmetal screws that the UAW workers thoughtfully tossed on the floor before installing the carpet? :laugh:
Read this: http://www.buickperformance.com/RMats.htm My experience in FL is that sound deadener is a bad idea where you have high humidity, like FL summers 90-100%. If you get any moisture under that deadener, you will have rust problems. The pics show a 72 Skylark Custom I did that just had new carpet and interior in it along with new sound deadener. Previous owner installed all the items about 1 yr before I got the car. New owner wanted(that I sold the car to) buckets and console, so I had to remove the carpet and deadener to weld in bucket and console brkts. Soooooooo, all the cars I do now, I use rubberized undercoat and liberally coat the floors with it. Then, it is your choice to add deadener or just install the carpet. If you are a concours man like Mr Jim Lore, then ignore my comments!
Thanks George - I was thinking of going the POR route. Do you use any paint or just the undercoating? Can you recommend a brand of rubberized undercoat? - Bill
Gary - That fish oil primer is pretty old technology. I used to use it back in the 70's! Try POR 15 for rock solid sealed protection. - Bill
You can use POR but I believe the funds would be better spent somewhere else. Since no one is going to see the "floor" I use undercoating. POR is a great product but I would save it for the areas where is would be "needed" such as the battery tray, core support under battery, etc. I would not use Rust-Oleum primer on the floor.
What has not been disussed is the fact that the seam sealer ifor cars 35 years old is shot and cracked. To do a good job you have to remove the kick panels, remove the old sealer and replalce it all the way around including in the back. The is requires the back panels to be removed. We use urethane seam sealer.
Jim; Since you brought it up :laugh: :laugh: , the old seam sealer (globs)on the kickpanels looks very similar to plumbers putty, same consistency and all; would that work? The chunks I took off mine today were about a 1/2" thick in many areas. What do you suggest before I replace them? Also, the insulation in the kick area seam like plain old 1" thick fiberglass. I am thinking of buying some and using my old ones as templates; any good suggestions? While I have your attention; who does the instrument cluster restos? That is the next big peice in the puzzle. I will soon be putting carpet in....can't wait. Len
The thick stuff to make up the gaps on the kick panels is not seam sealer. It stays soft and covers the wide gaps there. I generally reuse the old. Make sure you refinish the mechaism for the vents and the kick panel. I use the SEM process to redye. Vacuum out the space behind the panel through the hole in the meta; plates and use seam sealer as needed. POR 15 also may come into play. While you are fixing in that area you should have the firewall seal kit from somewhere like OPG. It has the seal to repair the heater flapper door which will be dead by now. Do not overlook it. However the round seal for the wiper motor you will have to get from GM. AS for the dash I always get JW to do mine. They are works of art when they come back. His attention to detail is the best I have seen and the work is turn key. Lens, decals rechrome etc. (Not to mention we are all lucky that JW produces this Board too or you and I would not be sharing experiences and pics on restos. We have more restos in common than you would imagine. I always try to thank George N and Smartin also for their sister sites. ). Nice work you are doing and a good story behind your car. Jason Cook too is a good friend.
Jim; Thank for the info. The heater door flap was going to be my next thread. I did not see it in the OPG book. I'll check with The Parts Place. Thanks, again. Len
