Trying to get ball joints to let go so I can get on with my disc brake adventure. Loosened both Upper and lower nuts, lowered jack so spring could break them Loose. Didn't happen. Have tried a pickle fork, pissed wife off, nothing. Have resorted to corporeal punishment, striking a nice little car Repeatedly on the loosened nuts (consider that), nothing. Neighbor came by and suggested fire. Everything on the suspension is original. Open to suggestions. Thanks
you want to strike the flat spots on the spindles with a decent size hammer, this sets up a vibration and the joints pops loose. hitting the nut won't do it. make sure you leave the nuts part way on the ball joints so they stop the assy from flying apart and injuring you. I usually leave them on so that just the top of the castle is flush with the tip of the threaded stud
Mix 50/50 Toluol & ATF in a oil can. Apply around the ball joint. Let it soak it. Big pickle fork (leave wife's good silverware alone) and BFH. It will come apart.
Well, I put on my "big boy" pants and proceeded to beat that Pickle fork like a rented mule, everything came apart like it should. Now I've got to go find where that spring flew off to. Just kidding. Thanks for the help.
When I was learning how to work on cars, my Dad (Master Fleet Mechanic) would always tell me, "Son, violence sometimes is the answer. Hit it with a hammer like you mean it." I've broken enough bolts and parts over the years now to slowly ramp up my "violence" against stubborn parts.
I know this is a little late, but it MAY help someone else in the future. Take two 1/2 " or 5/8" grade 5 bolts about 3" long, (Fine thread preferred) two nuts of the respectful size, and two flat washers, and a 3/4" black iron or galvanized pipe nipple about 5 or 6 " long. Thread the nut all the way down onto the bolt. Assemble in following order : bolt, nut, washer, pipe, washer, nut, bolt. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut on the ball joint. Loosen, but DO NOT REMOVE the nut on the ball joint several turns. BE SURE TO HAVE SOME TYPE OF RETENTION CHAIN THROUGH THE COIL SPRING!!! Put the bolt/nut/washer/pipe assembly between the upper and lower ball joint studs, and snug them up by LOOSENING the nuts on the bolts. (Hold the head of the bolt to keep it from turning.) This will LENGTHEN the assembly and put force on the ball joint studs, causing the stud to pop loose from the spindle. A good whack on the spindle will help as well. Having the nuts on the ball joint stud will limit the travel, and you can hit the other end after one end pops loose. Remove the nut/bolt device, and then remove the ball joint nuts and continue disassembly. There is actually a special tool made for this procedure, but this is the cheap way. Somebody had found one and had a question about what it was.
This is the tool that you can use, but the previous way is cheaper. I bought this after the fact because I hate chewing up ball joint boots!!! http://www.jegs.com/i/Howe/505/2154/10002/-1
Just to update my progress to date: Springs are in and hopefully clocked correctly, if not, they are staying as is and I'll live with it. No way am I fighting these springs again. Everything is tightened up, except for final tightening of control arms which will be done at front end shop. Car has a cute duck toed appearance as tires are no where close to pointing correctly. Once that's semi correct then plan is to trailer it to front end shop in town. The next job that seems to be of the "oh that's easy", but turns into a multi week disaster, is going to be getting from the 1972 master cylinder with booster mounted 72 style proportioning valve, down to the rear brake line, and then to some type of a junction block to hook up the discs. I tried Right Stuff this morning, but the female I got couldn't understand what I need and tried to sell me a complete line kit that didn't have the junction blocks or a means of connecting to the rear line. At this point I am extremely open to how to accomplish getting the brake plumbing done. Stay tuned for more calamity!
