What should I expect to pay to have new coil spings installed in my 71 GS?

Thanks!!

 

Front or rear?
(or all 4?)

Rears are super easy... fronts are a bit more work....

(And, are you providing the springs?)

 

OOPS...

Rear springs...

 

Too bad you're so far away, I'd do it for a beer! :laugh:

But seriously, it is really simple and requires minimal tools.
Assuming your shocks aren't 10 years old and rusted in place, I can't imagine it taking longer than an hour, including putting all the tools away.

I guess it depends on what kind of labor rates the shop you use charges, but I think an hour or so is a decent estimate assuming all goes well. o No:

 

Heck, maybe I'll give it a try!! :TU:

 

Good luck!
You'll need a floor jack, a good set of jack stands, and a socket set. (preferably an impact wrench)

Jack the car up and place jackstands under the frame just in front of the rear tires. You'll need the tires to be couple inches off the ground.

Remove the wheels. (This might not be necassary, but it's easier working in there with the tires out of the way. I've never tried it with the wheels on.)

Now put the jack under the rear end, right in the middle and jack it up just a little bit. (maybe an inch) Make sure you're not jacking the car off the stands!!!! Just lift the rear end enough to know that you are supporting it.

Remove the nut at the bottom of both shocks. There's one in front, and one behind... you only have to remove one or the other. The main idea is to get the shocks seperated from the rear end, and removing either nut from each one will accomplish that.

Once the shocks are seperated from the rear end, you can lower your jack. The rear end should now be able to drop pretty much all the way to the floor.

With the rear end dropped that far, the springs should practically just fall out.
(They quit bolting the springs in after 1966)

Put the new springs in, jack the rear back up enough to bolt the shocks back in place.... again, be sure to only jack the rear end up enough the get the shocks back on... don't lift the car off the jack stands!!!

Put your wheels back on, and take her for a spin!

:beers2:

Anyone see anything I'm missing?

 

Rick, you rock!!!

Come to Chicago, beers on me!!! :beers2:

Thanks,

Jeff

 

my chilton's labor guide shows 1.4 hrs. each......rear shows .9 hrs....for both.

 

Jeff it's super simple just make sure your new springs are long enough (When the shocks are bolted up, the springs don't fall out.) I've had 2 sets of Moog's that were too short both different pn's but they didn't make Moog's spec.


EDIT"
Leave the wheels on. plenty of room available.
if your bushings are still really tight you may need to pull down on the axle to install and remove the springs.

 

I'm looking at Easton springs... Going to remove the air shocks once and for all. I like the rear raised a touch so I'm going to get taller springs.

Thanks for the heads up!! :TU:

 

Wow, seems like a complete rear end swap doesn't take more than 4 hours, and more than half that time is trying to get the bolts back in the trailing arms, and messing around with the brakes.

But with that said... I don't usually watch the clock when I'm out in my shop. Maybe I'm slower than I think. :laugh:

 

Jeff if You need some help let me know, I've done them before only because I've swapped entire rear end assemblies.

 

The only thing to add that you might have to do (I had to w/the Electra) is that once you unbolt the shocks and lower the rear, the springs might not pop out. Then you place the jack on a side of the rear end, under spring perch and jack it up. This will cause the opposite side to lower even more and let the old spring fall out.

 

Don't forget to put blocks in front of your front tires just to make sure it does not roll forward...

Like everyone said, its a pretty easy job as long as you don't have to wrestle with rusted bolts... Yes, replace the shocks now also while your at it...

:TU:

 

And don't forget to put the isolators from the old springs (if in good condition, otherwise a new set) on the top of your new springs.

 

I recently did the rear springs and shocks on my Electra. Please use goggles if working under the car. I used safety glasses, and still a fleck of rust landed in my eye. It wouldn't come out, ended up going to the eye doctor to remove it.
Of course I did this on the Sunday of Memorial day weekend, so the doc wasn't open until Tuesday!

Mitch

 

The hardest part is the 2 bolts that hold the top of the rear shock.....:blast:

 

he said nothing about shocks :laugh: but yes they are pain.

 

Actually... he did, but it was later on in the thread. See post # 10
:laugh:

And I agree... those top bolts can be a major pain! :shock:

 

I was looking to raise the rear of my Skylark a few inches. Right now it sits almost with the front a little above the rear. I want to get that muscle stance back. Is getting longer rear springs the best solution?