My 72 2 barrel runs very well. When cold I can push the gas pedal down once and it cranks a little and the choke sets in well. I can let it run for a little bit (minutes) and can tap the gas to get it off that high idle. Every once in awhile this process does not work so well. It will be running on the choke for a few min then if I hit the gas pedal to get it to a lower idle it shuts right off (no putter or stumble, just like someone pulled the coil wire) and will start back up but when I let off the gas it shuts right off. From this state it takes forever for it to catch idle and stay running. Is this related to the little canister under the carb that has a wire plugged at the end of it, the linkage rests on it in resting place for a lack of better words. Is this thing not pushing the linkage up to keep it running? Any idea?
As I stated in m y orig post I am having shuts down issues once I kick the carb down off choke when cold. Once I do that the car runs great but when I come to a stop/take foot off gas is shuts down every single time. What does this canister (what is it called, can a new one be bought?) thing I have posted of a pic for? It has a wire to it that I have disconnected for now. Seems to me when this started happening was right after I disconnected to wire to the temp sensor. I had to because I put a mech gauge in that location. In the pic you can see where I moved the temp sensor. Does temp sensor have to be connected/wired so the canister can activate and push the piston thing out thus moving the linkage to get it to stay at idle. Is the temp sensor sending some signal back to that canister thing to make it work? For now I disconnected the canister thingy and just turned the piston thing on the end of it out to get the idle to stay and no stalling.
That is the idle stop solenoid. It is supposed to set your in gear idle speed. When you shut the engine, the solenoid closes the throttle to prevent run on. With the solenoid disconnected, set the idle speed to 500 RPM in DRIVE. Then connect the solenoid, and open the throttle a bit and the solenoid will extend. Then rotate the hex nut on the solenoid plunger to adjust the idle speed to 650 in DRIVE.
No computers ( in cars anyway ) in 1972. 12 volts is what the solenoid will see when the ignition is on.
Also the part there the wire plugs into the unit that spade is VERY loose and wiggle. I wonder if it is even working now. Me, the shop that had worked on it have been in and out of that motor and with air breather sorta propped up when I have been checking things could have broke it. I noticed that when this has been happening that the unit is not extended, staying in the pulled down position.
So what is preventing you from simply turning the ignition on, connecting the wire to the solenoid, and slightly extending the throttle?
I had done that yesterday ( not knowing what I was doing, ha ha) but still was stalling, I seem to recall the thing was pulled all the way in when I had it plugged ing, not extended at.. Don't get why it was not doing this until two days ago. The spade that the the wire plugs on is very very loose, I wonder if I am getting a sporadic signal to the unit or not at all thus it is not working. Today I just left it unplugged and with the car off adjusted the thing out then started it then turned it back in till it ran at good rpm's (by ear) and went out and drove it and was running good and when I would shut it off i was not getting any run on when the key was off.
I'm trying to explain to you what you have to do, and it seems you aren't listening to me, or not understanding. Connect the solenoid electrical connection, turn the ignition to on (run), engine off. slightly open the throttle, and the solenoid should extend. If it doesn't, check for 12 volts at the connection. If you have 12 volts with the ignition on, the solenoid is bad. With the solenoid retracted, the idle should be 500 RPM in DRIVE. With the solenoid extended, 650 RPM in DRIVE. All of this is in the 1972 Buick Chassis Manual. Do you have a copy?
I don't know how to explain it any better. You really need to buy the chassis manual and read it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Buick...451008?hash=item2146f60cc0:g:2iEAAOSwfHFbi1Fm https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-19...933664?hash=item2ceabecc20:g:J-wAAOSwdwRc2zw4 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Buick...939549?hash=item48ca324d5d:g:43MAAOSwmQdc6yuM http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_3072 http://www.gearheadcafe.com/1972-Buick-Shop-Manuals-CDrom?search=1972 buick
Larry . He should check to see if he has power to the plug end that goes to the Idle Solenoid. I've seen quite a few that the spade terminal is so loose it touches the case of the solenoid and grounds . It is controlled by a fused circuit. I can't remember which one. When it touches the case it shorts and blows the fuse . . Maybe that is his problem . He did say the spade terminal is really loose .
This is the first time anyone had addressed my mention of the very lose terminal on the Solenoid. I think that is my issue and if it has grounded out and blown a fuse explain while all the sudden my car just shuts down when I take my foot off the pedal. I do understand now what you all are saying to test, etc. I will test the plug for power. Sounds like no one knows where the fuse circuit for this would since I prob need to check that fuse.
What he's saying is start the car. let it get to operating temperature (fully warmed up), and if you have a tachometer, set the idle speed to 500rpm with the car in drive (helps to have another person in the car with their foot on the brake so you don't run yourself over) WITH THE SOLENOID UNPLUGGED. Then plug the solenoid back in, and turn the thumb screw on the solenoid to where it idles at 650rpm, also in drive. if you don't have a tach, one of them $100 timing lights with an LCD display will tell you rpm.
