What is an acceptable amount of brake drag?

My front disk's always seemed a bit tight. Here's a vid:

 

I've seen worse....if you are really concerned about it you can put springs on the caliper bolts to help them retract for basically zero drag. That's what I do on drag cars....

 

Copy above. Make sure calipers do "float", meaning for any given caliper, no hinderance to left & right motion.

If a pin freezes, caliper can't float, and can increase drag, and wear will quickly increase on one spot on a pad, and not on the opposite.

From the vid, looks ok!

Devon

 

Everything is lubed and free. I even filed the rough powder coat on the sliding surfaces of the pads. At one point I thought my master pushrod was too long but even with the MC unbolted it's the same. It's just one of those things I go back to when the car is jacked up and I start second guessing myself on..
The spring idea is interesting, I can see it being viable on a drag car. Such an unnecessary build up of heat and friction..
When I pry it back she can spin for days

 

On my car, one is like that and one spins a little freer and I've thought about it but never done anything other than check the bearings and the caliper movement. It all checks out.

 

The springs on my calipers and removing self adjusters in rear actually made my car more consistent racing. Every time you back up and hit brakes the shoes can tighten up.

 

Make sure the MC is releasing all the way....incorrect plunger depth will cause brake drag

 

I did verify the MC piston was returning to the snap ring when I unbolted it and pushed on it with a screwdriver. I think it's mechanical not hydraulic because nothing changes when I crack the bleeder.

Same, my right one feels a couple bees dicks freer..

 

Good call on the rears. Luckily I converted to disk's back there too.

 

Make sure that the front wheel bearings are adjusted correctly. The nut should not even be finger tight. The play in the bearings helps push the piston back in and your bearings will last longer.

 

I’m going with hub defenders when I replace my rotors. Once set they recommend 40 ft/lbs of torque. They have complete Bearing, spacer and low drag seal kits.
https://store.drpperformance.com/gm-street-performance-hub-defenders/

 

What is that? Does it go inside the rotor, over the spindle and act similar to the rear pinon crush sleeve?

 

Exactly