Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by MrSony, Jan 14, 2020.
Is there a specific make of engine they're from? Or is it just a blanket term for the type of rod?
x2 on the question.
If you're asking about the nascar take out rods(means they're used) that are sold on eBay, then they can be from various nascar teams that run the Chevy R07 nascar engine platform or from the Ford FR9 engine platform and so on.........
They are different engines representing the different manufacturers yet they are very similar in construction. IIRC they all went to a 4.500" bore spacing for the blocks and the bore and strokes are also similar and so is the cubic inch displacement. The heads flow around the same 410 intake CFM and make around the same 800 to 850 HP @ about 9,000 RPM.
So it is basically a blanket term for the rods that are in the different nascar engines that are used in nascar races.
So basically if its an engine that is run in a nascar race car, they have connecting rods in them is where they're from. If you don't know what Nascar is then, well I just can't help you, maybe Google can?
Honest question: has anyone actually done this yet?? I've seen the recipe posted ad nauseam but I'm not sure I've seen anyone do it and report back with results.
Then you really haven't been paying attention.
I actually I have. I know of 1 person. Johnny in the dragster. I've spoken to him in person at length about it in the past. But when I did a search on the board I got 1000's of posts suggesting it (hence the "ad nauseam" comment) without finding people talking about their experiences with them in their engines. So I was hoping you could point me in the direction of the posts talking about their results so I could research them in other applications as his dragster doesn't really translate well to what I'm wanting to do. Instead I got a smart ass quip. So thanks for that.....
It depends on what era your talking about.
In the early 60s Ford, Pontiac, Chrysler and Chevy all made a up graded factory rod for usage on the oval tracks back then and or road race use.
I wondered the same thing. These days aftermarket rods in virtually any size is a phone call away. Is it worth it to mess with used Ebay stuff?
It was late last night and I was getting to sleepy to look up a bunch of threads, I would of got to it today if in you gave me a chance.
Anyway, here is a good one you can read until I have some more time later to post a few more;
Well if $$ was no object when building an engine then yeah, buy the custom billet rods for $2,500.
But if you're like everyone else the custom rods are a bit out of reach for most, lets face it most people don't even want to spend that much for the entire build.
The nascar take outs can be bought for $90 on up for a set and on average around $250 that can be used in a sbb build that would need about another around $50 to $75 in machine work to fit. And the crank would need another around $200 to $300 of work and you're there for around the price of the sbb Molnar rods.
Nothing to do with patience, everything to do with your remark. Don't waste your time digging up more threads on my behalf as I've seen enough to decide what route to take.
I apologize to the OP for the thread sidetrack, back to your regularly scheduled program.
I know this is the small block forum and this won't answer your question but in the old days the 426 Hemi had a specific "Nascar" rod that you could buy over the counter. The attached imaged shows one of my friend's 426 Hemi "Nascar" connecting rods next to a my one of my Buick 455 connecting rods.
Well look, the stock rods are cast. And while those do alright for what they are, they aren't a strong foundation. Cast rods can be broken much more easily than you might think. For my last build, (a 340) I found a deal on a set of Scat aftermarket rods for a Flathead Ford that used the SBB rod bearing. They used a 3/4" piston pin and had a 7" rod length. I was able to buy the set for not much over $100 and they were a regular item. Probably not available for that price now. The piston pin came out just below the ring package. With the reduced weight of the rods and pistons the engine is very responsive and I'm very satisfied with the power it produces. I'm now changing over to a 2002 GM ECM to run it. Heads are stock aluminum 300 and induction is via an M112 Eaton at 5psi boost.
I recently bought 2 sets of Nascar rods in 6.2" length for use in 300 builds. You've seen the threads. TA heads, cerokoted blocks, 340 cranks, plus boost. No, they haven't been built yet, the blocks, cranks and heads are at the machine shop. (mains are already turned) This stuff doesn't happen overnight.
So its all right for you to make your DB remark; " I've seen the recipe posted ad nauseam"(knowing that the majority if not all of those "nauseam"posts were from me) then act like a thin skinned victom when I post a snarky reply.
Also there was the time a couple weeks ago that I directly answered a similar question you asked me that pointed to a running example that I did the machine work on the rods for that engine that the owner has even posted a couple videos of it running.
Derek, do you still have the link to the ebay seller who sells these? I may use these in a stock stroke build just to lighten the rotating mass. What were the dimensions compared to OE SBB rods?
Just put in nascar connecting rods in the eBay search and they will show the rods with the various sellers that sells them.
You want the rods that are .900" wide on the big end so they can be narrowed to the correct sbb offset. The lengths from 6.300" to 6.450" work good for the sbb 350 with a custom or customizable piston .
Stay away from the 1.976" big end housing bore size(1.850" journal size) if you're not adding stroke. The 2.008" and 2.015" housing bore size can use the larger Honda 1.889" bearings.
Or give me a call I might have a set that will work for you?
Sooooo, what route are you taking after all that......
Inquiring minds want to know.
To answer your question, YES. I’m running them in my twin turbo set up, stroked to 370......
I know I've missed a lot of this, but I would like to know more about what you accomplished with this build.