I just want to get a take on everyone's opinion. I've heard of people doing this, and I'm not sure If I should bother with it. Any special process to go about doing this, like making a jig to hold everything solid before welding?
I've always heard to never weld on axle tubes because they will warp/distort. for what its worth a friend of mine had a 71 Z28. it was a 9.90 car with the original 12 bolt. that cracked eventually ripped the axle tubes out of the housing. the ears developed cracks, he was a welder by trade so he welded the cracks but it eventually broke on a launch. it had 5.13s and a spool and had been raced for 20+ years before it failed. It had a transbrake for most of that time too.
Me too. Mine is a out of a 71 monty it is open. Now is blasted and empty. when Monzas gets around to empty his mail box i will be getting some goodies from him. Like torino ends and 33sp shafts, posi, gears and such. Anyway i think that a bar and pucks are needed to weld the tube and then the ends so they are in line and straight.
Same here. I'm pretty sure I'll be getting some stuff from Jim when I manage to feel financially comfortable doing it. The rest I'll get through work (Napa). I can't remember what year mine was, but it was a 12 bolt open rear with some "highway" gears in it. Haven't decided exactly what the plan is; Ford ends? Aftermarket C-Clip eliminators? Neither? The tapered axles have to go though; don't want to watch stock ones slide out of the tubes.
Yeah you will want to make a jig to hold the rear end all square while you weld it up... For me it was not worth the hassle. I just saved up and bought the Moser 12 bolt aftermarket housing and had Jim build it with parts to handle 1000 HP. Sure it cost some money but I will have no isses with it for a good while I am sure... I could have spent $400 to find a core 12 bolt or $900 for an aftermarket housing that is WAY better, no need to weld, has better Ford bearings, all sorts of things that are better than the Chevy 12 bolt... Jim even built mine to bolt right in my Skylark wihout changing anything as far as driveshaft yokes etc... $1000 for the housing: http://www.spohn.net/shop/1964-1967...s/Moser-Engineering-12-Bolt-Housing-Only.html My price quote here: View attachment 12_BOLT_BUICK_68-72_PRICE_QUOTE__Moser_J_D_race_Sean_Gaskin[1].doc It showed up all ready to fill with oil and go:
This is something I should of had done prior to my build.. not sure it'll be wise to weld a loaded axle housing? if so how would JBweld do!? LOL
My mechanic (the one who does the heavy lifting) is welding up one for me now. I should get it in a couple of weeks. He has over 30 years racing experience in the Buick GS. His take is not to attempt to weld one that has already pulled out a little or twisted. My original axle tube on the right side has pulled out about 1/2". He is having a good old housing blasted clean and primer'd and setting up a new 3.23 posi in it. I'll put the axles back in and bolt it back to the car. Our theory is that with my global west rear arms, a whole new set of stresses was presented to the old axle. Given the way the factory did the mass production welding on the original housings 40+ years ago, it was never anticipated to place the stresses on the rear end that a modern suspension system can place.
OPINION- If you are street bound there is absolutely NO NEED to weld axle tubes up. Period. If you are track bound faster than 11.50 or if you are hitting 1.5 or less 60 foot times you might want to thing about doing this. NOW I have seen many U-tube Videos and read many forums articles etc. And it seems EVERYONE has a way to do it CORRECTLY. I personally have never had an issue with the tubes tweaking or pulling from welding the center to the tubes. DO not attempt to cool down the rear prematurely let it just normally cool, usually the slower the better for the cast iron. Do not sit on one spot with the welder and over heat the metal. IF you do not know how to weld.... this is NOT the time to learn. Jim So that is what I have for you. Jim JD
In my case I am nowhere near 11.50 - maybe not even 14.50 given my current 2.73 axle ratio. But the passenger side still pulled out and it is visibly angled so it just doesn't look safe to drive. I wish it hadn't happened as I really don't need the expense right now with college tuition due for the spring. Any opinion on the global west contribution? It really carves up the corners.
