found out this weekend what my car will do .. out on a country road. but taking off i get NO weight transfer . i videod it taking off the but will squat but the front seems like its stuck.. if you get in front of the car on each fender you cant really push the car down any at all ( i weigh almost 200 lbs) i rebuilt the front end a long time ago and the car has done nothing but sit since then. i know when i rebuilt it someone told me to put the stiffest springs i could get since i was putting a big block in it and the front is higher than the back by a bit. i figure the springs are the reason i get no transfer but i just wanna get all the tips i can (thing gets no traction taking off at all) maybe thats part of the reason to? thanks. Lonnie
Do some reading here and you should find the solutions to your problems http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=213538 In addition, the 'stiff springs with a big block' application is a common mistake, especially with a Buick. The BBB isn't much heavier than a SBC http://www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html
Get the lightest springs for drag racing. We got springs for chevelle, with 6 cylinder and no air. Tyler has cut a full coil off those, and will cut another half off to get the height correct. We have fiberglass, so you might not need to cut. Take off front sway bar, and add a rear bar. 90/10 shocks on front, or adjustable at softest setting. Set your rear pinion angle after chassis adjustments. Air bags in rear springs, or at least one on right side. slicks.... Also, move all weight as far back as possible. Battery, etc.
alright thanks guys. i have the front swaybar off and when i get my 8.5 built ill get adj. upper control arms, and im debating on changing my lowers also. i have the edelbrock boxed ones. i remember seeing the tube ones on tylers car. it seems they would do a lot better job of not binding up. and also . does airbags in the rear springs make stopping a little different? also how long do my wheel studs have to be out ?? and do the driveshaft loops have to be some certified piece or could i just build my own? would i need aftermarket axles with as mild of a build as i have.. i know i wont be any faster than 12.6 plus or minus a few this year so maybe i could save some money there for an anti roll bar for the rear. do all you guys loosen the bolts on your front control arms? and i have my engine scooted back so far the top trans bolts wont come out without pulling the tranny. and im going to try to move my battery to the back in the next couple weeks. does the battery box have to be some kind of certified piece or can i make it out of aluminum sheet metal. ya im pretty green when it comes to track rules. so i have a lot of questions thanks for the help, Lonnie
We go by the NHRA book, and most all sanctioning bodies follow the same rules. You can get one at NHRA.com. That's the best way. You have to have an approved battery box with ventilation. Wheel studs are required with slicks only. Same with drive shaft loop I think. We do back off the upper control arm bushing bolts. We ran low 12's in the 4000# red car with stock axles, gm carrier and 3.42 gear. The things above won't cost much. We build all of our cars to be legal, and as safe as possible, since most of the rules are for safety of the driver and others. That being said, almost every single track we have been to over the past years will look over a couple of things and pass the car. We rarely have to open the hood or trunk even. So you might could "pass" with anything, but I would hate to travel to a track and not get to race.
