I have an all original 68 Electra that I had the radiator recored. I wanted to tight the belts and snapped off the bolt that holds the alt/ac bracket at the pump. Its one that goes all the way through. As I pull the fan to get a drill in there I notice the water pump has play in it and its a matter of time before that goes so while in there you know. Well the next three bolts twist off in the timing cover and I have not attempted the one that go into the block. I don't want to snap those and have to pull the cover. Is it okay or will it help to heat the bolts first? I didn't want to do it at first but not that I will be replacing the pump I don't think it will damage anything else. Any tips and what size are the water pump bolts? I know there are 2 different sizes. Thanks for any advice. I just wanted to change the radiator and now I have this can of worms.
Heating the bolt head of that long of a bolt isn't going to do a heck of a lot as far as breaking it loose. The aluminum timing cover will wick the heat out of it long before the threaded end gets hot. If they are corroded, you're probably fighting the inevitability of having to pull the timing cover.
You are better off biting the bullet and remove the timing cover. If the bolts are suspect, cut off the heads of them and get the timing cover off for better access to the bolts that enter the block.
Ed, The small bolts are 1/4-20 x 3/4" they just hold the pump on (6 of them, 3 top, 3 bottom) The 5 larger bolts that go thru the water pump/timing cover are 5/16-18. 4 go into the engine to secure the water pump/timing cover to the block, the other is the alt bracket (the one you broke). As was mentioned, the six small ones are hard bolts to actually heat up, due to the cover wicking away the heat.. but you can try.. heat the bolt just about red hot, and then wack it a few times with a hammer. If you get lucky, you might get them loose. If they break off, you can drill them out all the way and use a nut on the top three.. but the bottom ones you will have to drill and heli-coil. Rarely do the larger 5/16 bolts break, but I have seen it.. Wish you would have called me... I could have saved you the headache. JW
In the past I actually welded a nut what was left of the bolt. The heat from welding loosened it up but I made sure I didn't melt the cover. This worked on the tiny bolts everytime. After that the threads were still good on the cover. Also if the long bolt is broke off into the block the same method would work. If you iwn a welder you can make it happen.
That is exactly where never seize comes into play. Too bad the factory didn't think like that. Just a few random ideas: Take a ball pein and tap each bolt head a few times to shock them, and/or put a little heat to them. Next, try to BARELY snug them a bit before loosening. Hell, if it breaks there no great loss... nothing ventured nothing gained. If you find that you HAVE to drill the bolts after the heads are gone, theres a few things to try... If the heads break BELOW the pump face, use the existing hole to try and center punch the stub. Drill first (nice and easy!!) with a 1/8" pilot drill. The right sized TAP DRILL will walk off the steel and into the aluminum; GAURANTEED! If this is a no go, finish breaking the rest off (!) and pull the pump. Theres probably just enough stub left to get the vise grips on. I'd heat it first. If you have access to a brazing torch, set the flame really small and just heat the stub for 1-2 seconds, wait a minute and reheat, THEN use the pliers. Even a propane torch will transfer heat through the bolt to the corroded threads. ALWAYS clean the threaded holes with a tap and some compressed air/solvent. APPLY NEVER SEIZE. One of the first jobs on mine upon purchase was a belt/hose/ anti freeze job. That same bolt was broken with the bracket just hanging in air, and the broken bolt still seized in the housing with lousy access for drilling, plus it was a grade 6 or 8 bolt. Finally had to take a cut off grinder and slice the stub to relieve it. The two halves unscrewed with a screwdriver. I had just bought the car and after a 45 minute drive home didn't want to get into a timing chest job. After all the above, I cleaned the area really well, put a bolt, nut and two washers in position and rebuilt with J-B weld. Removed the bolt after the cure and filed the repair to shape. I replaced the bolt, and left the back side washer against the JB... There were also 2 broken 1/4-20 screws in the timing chest that I got out with the vise grips once the pump was off. Hey, if yer made outa money (Im not!) I will always try a reliable repair. Otherwise whats a few hundred for a new timing chest and parts?? Bill in TR
