OK, so I searched for a long time to get this info, and ended up opening up a few worm-cans of additional items I hadn't thought about. I would like to run a mid weight oil, I think, as the car may get run in the cold. (Daily driver). What is the difference between straight weight oil and, say 10-30? I know the 10-40 means it is good for a range of uses, temps, but does that mean the straight weight is only good if you run the car at, lets say summer temps? Does the w in 10w-40 stand for winter, or does it stand for weight? Also, one can of worms is the gasket for the oil filter-is this more complicated than just removing the filter, and replacing it (and the gasket or fitting)? Or is there a fitting that is needed, that needs to be near perfect to keep the nailhead from leaking oil? Is there s metal (gasket) that should be there? I saw that someone had a problem with this, and it seemed a little complicated. The post that gogt me confused is here- http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=8427&highlight=type+of+oil I haven't been able to suss this out with my setup, as I don't want to mess with anything until I am ready to do the oil change with all parts and equipment handy. As for the engine, it's a JT code 401. As far as I know, it's never been rebuilt, probably burns some oil. Lol! Another post made me pretty sure I will try to get the Fram "high performance" filter for my car, it sounds like a good deal-this post- http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=11777&highlight=fram+hp By good deal, I mean price and performance. And this thread, in which Jim Burek gives his two cents: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=45753&highlight=fram+hp One more thing-the engine takes 5 quarts of oil?
Christopher-I would use a 10-40 right now, probably 10-30 if you are driving it in the cold. I you haven't had the car long enough to know it's 'habits', keep an eye on oil level and condition-you may want to change oil/filter more often for a bit if past maint has been neglected. At least the '66 Rivs do have oil pressure/temp gauges, so keep an eye on them as the days get warmer=coolant not too hot and oil pressure not too low. A JT code is for a '63 401 that would have had a dynaflow trans with a different crankshaft setup-another story-but indicates your drivetrain is non-original. The deal with the oil filter is some folks have had leaks where the oil filter mount housing is bolted to the engine block. There is a paper gasket between that is still available from the Buick parts suppliers if you want to have a spare. The filter itself is the standard spin-on type with no special issues-hope that helps a bit-good luck-
Thanks Dan. See, now when I said I had searched for the info, I had spent upwards of about 2 hours looking for this info on this board. I figured the nailhead has enough quirks I better make sure I use the right oil. So now your answer is cointradictory for this reason, another owner said not to use the 10-40, and one car manufacturer even has come out saying the 10-40 should not be used in cars. What's the difference between straight weight and 10-30 or whatever besides the ability of the oil to handle cold and heat? Don't they all do that anyway? Is straight weight too "slow" when cold to provide adequate start-up protection? Why do you guys seem to like 20-50? Is it too heavy for an older, un-rebuilt engine? Or is is likely a good bet for that application? I don't think I want to use 5- anything, and not 10-40, so...? The car seems to have good oil pressure-around 40 when cold, 20 when hot, and temp is between 180-190 consistently, closer to 180 most of the time. (on aftermarket gauges).
I run mobil 1 synthetic oil in everything. The exception being , the break in period of a new/rebuilt engine. Everyone has their own ideas. :bglasses:
What about an oversize filter for the nailhead? Anyone have a part number for one-preferably Mobil 1, Ac-Delco or Valvoline MaxLife :TU:
Chris, you might find this of interest, Personally, I'd have no problem using a 10W40 oil in the summer, 10W30 in the winter, in my 66 Skylark - but I don't drive it in the winter. Have you considered installing a block heater for winter starts? It could alleviate your concerns. Consider the following: Valuing Viscosity: Behind the Science to Get the Best for Your Car By Mark Sztenderowicz Viscosity: it's the most basic quality of any motor oil, and the one with which many of us are most familiar and think we know the most about. But do we really? For example, what does SAE 10W-40 really mean? Is a 5W-30 motor oil really thinner than a 10W-30? What's the difference between a multigrade motor oil and a single grade oil? Why do we have so many grades? And, most importantly, what's the best viscosity grade to run in your customers' cars? Different viscosities, different points The viscosity of any fluid is the measure of its frictional resistance to flow. The higher the viscosity, the higher the friction for a given flow. We see this friction as the effort to move one lubricated part relative to another - for example, the power required to rotate a crankshaft in its bearings - or the pressure difference required to create a certain flow, like the oil pressure required to move oil through an engine's oil passages. When it comes to lubrication, it's the viscosity of the oil between the parts you want to lubricate that really matters. And this is where things start to get complicated, because engine oils don't behave as simply as we might like. In fact, the viscosity of an oil is not constant at all - it depends upon the temperature, the pressure, and the actual strain rate or shear stress in the flowing oil, in the region of interest. The result? The viscosity of your engine oil is different depending on whether the oil is in your oil pan, under your valve lifters, or in the crankshaft bearings. Measuring viscosity - and why Oil viscosity is commonly defined and tested using four different methods, yielding four separate measures of viscosity: kinematic, high-temperature high-shear-rate, cold cranking simulator viscosity, and cold pumpability. These parameters have important implications regarding how an oil functions and under what conditions. Kinematic viscosity, which measures the viscosity of an oil as it flows under the force of gravity, has been the most common measurement of oil viscosity for many years. Measurements are taken at two temperatures representative of oil in the oil pan of a warm engine: 40 C and 100 C. Because oils become thinner at higher temperatures, these two measurements also are used to quantify this relationship between viscosity and temperature, producing a number called the Viscosity Index (VI.). The higher the VI, the less the viscosity change for a given change in temperature. For motor oils, a high VI usually is a good thing. The most common test for kinematic viscosity is American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) Method D 445. High-temperature high-shear-rate (HTHS) viscosity is an indicator of a motor oil's resistance to flow in the narrow spaces between rapidly moving parts in fully warmed up engines. The most common test here is ASTM D 4683, which simulates the conditions found in an engine's crankshaft and connecting rod bearings, as well as other narrow regions. This measurement has important implications for such factors as engine fuel economy, valvetrain wear and bearing protection. Cold cranking simulator viscosity simulates the viscosity of an oil in crankshaft bearings when trying to start during a cold winter morning. The test is important in determining if an engine can be cranked over fast enough, when very cold, to start. ASTM Method D 5293 simulates an oil's cranking resistance when cold, and thus indicates the lowest temperature at which an engine is likely to start. Cold pumpability looks at the resistance of an oil to pumping through the engine after a cold weather start. The most widely used test is ASTM D 4684, also known as the Mini-Rotary Viscometer method. If an oil's viscosity becomes too high, pumping may be a problem. Viscosity here becomes an important factor in determining whether the engine runs with proper lubrication after starting in severe cold. The meaning behind the grade Based on the viscosity measures described above, the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has created their viscosity classification standard for engine oil: J300. Under this standard, a collection of viscosity grades are defined in terms of limits on different measures of viscosity. Table 1 shows these limits for each grade. Table 1. SAE Viscosity Grades for Engine Oils (from SAE J300) Grade Cold Cranking (CCS) Cold Pumping (MRV) Kinematic Viscosity, 100C HTHS, 150 C unit (cP @ T C) (cP @ T C) (cSt) (cSt) (cP) - Maximum Maximum Minimum Maximum Minimum 0W 6200 @ -35 60,000 @ -40 3.8 - - 5W 6600 @ -30 60,000 @ -35 3.8 - - 10W 7000 @ -25 60,000 @ -30 4.1 - - 15W 7000 @ -20 60,000 @ -25 5.6 - - 20W 9500 @ -15 60,000 @ -20 5.6 - - 25W 13000 @ -10 60,000 @ -15 9.3 - - 20 - - 5.6 <9.3 2.6 30 - - 9.3 <12.5 2.9 40 - - 12.5 <16.3 2.9 (0W-40, 5W-40, 10W-40) 40 - - 12.5 <16.3 3.7 (15W-40, 20W-40, 25W-40, 40) 50 - - 16.3 <21.9 3.7 60 - - 21.9 <26.1 3.7 The table shows that there are two types of SAE viscosity grades: those with a "W," and those without. Those with a "W" have upper limits on low-temperature cranking and pumping viscosities, and a lower limit on kinematic viscosity. Those without the W have upper and lower limits on kinematic viscosity at 100C and HTHS at 150 C, but have no low-temperature viscosity limits. So, W grades pertain largely to low-temperature performance (think of the W as meaning "winter"), while non-W grades relate only to high-temperature performance. For the W grades, note that the pumping limits are specified at 5 C below the cranking limits. This is done to ensure that if an oil allows an engine to start, the oil will pump throughout the engine, as well. If this were not the case, severe engine damage could result. Single grades and multigrades An engine oil can be classified as either single grade or multigrade. Oils that meet only W or only non-W grade requirements are called single grades, while those that meet the requirements of both are called multigrades. Examples of single grade oils are SAE 30 and SAE 10W, while SAE 5W-30 and SAE 20W-50 are examples of multigrades. The reason we have both single grade and multigrade oils is largely historical. The earliest engine oils were all non-W single grades, but as the requirement for oils to work well under both low and high temperatures evolved, W grades and multigrades emerged. In terms of viscosity, the biggest difference between a multigrade and a single grade is that the multigrade must not become too viscous at low temperatures, while still meeting the requirements of its high temperature grade - in other words, multigrades exhibit less viscosity change with temperature than most single grades. Thus, a typical 5W-30 motor oil has the same approximate kinematic viscosity as a SAE 30 grade oil at 100 C, but it's viscosity at very low temperatures, while thicker than when hot, is much less than the 30 grade. This is achieved by formulating multigrades with a higher Viscosity Index than typical for single grades. So, while a 5W-30 oil will allow a modern car to start at temperatures as low as -30 C, the typical SAE 30 oil would be too thick to either crank or pump at that temperature. So what's the best grade for you? Given all of the different viscosity grades available, which is best for your customers' cars? To determine this, you need look no further than the vehicle owner's manual or application guide for that vehicle. In all but rare circumstances, the best viscosity grade is the one recommended by the manufacturer. As you might guess by now, most experts prefer a multigrade oil, because of the wider temperature range over which such oils work. However, using the correct multigrade is also important, because one lighter than recommended may not provide adequate engine protection, while a heavier one will reduce fuel economy and performance, and may increase oil temperatures in critical regions like bearings. The bottom line? Use the specified quality of oil in the recommended SAE viscosity grade and the result is your customers will enjoy the best that their vehicles have to give. # # # Mark Sztenderowicz is a Staff Engineer with ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants, working in the Lubrication Technology group in Richmond California. Mark is responsible for the formulation of Havoline passenger car motor oils in North America, Central America and the Caribbean. To find out more about the great products Mark develops you can call 866-688-8890.
I've been running 20w-50 synthetic in mine and it seems fine except Nailheads have a tendency to make lifter noise when you start them, especially if the oil level is low or in the cold weather after sitting for a while. Once I tried 5w-30 and the problem dissappeared, but I think that's too thin. Both my Nailheads in the past have done that. Next time I'm going to try 5w-50 synthetic and see if it helps. I suppose 10w-40 synthetic would work prolly good too though, but I don't think modern non-synthetic oil is any good in older motors, so from now on I'm only running synthetic in the Buick.:bglasses:
I remember this quote: "Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter." and buy Shell Rotella t 15w 40 since my cars never see temps below 0. I remember a posting on this subject before, and JW may use this too- I can't remember exactly, other than Hey I'm Not The Only One Using Truck Oil! :laugh: Do a search on oil choices, there are a couple good threads.
Joe, why do you think dino oil isn't good for older motors? You rebuilt yours before putting it in the 67, right?
Yes, I did rebuild it. I wish I could recall where I read it, but I remember reading an article recently that said newer motor oils are not formulated very well for use in older engines. Rather than discover the hard way that statement is true, I'll run synthetic oil. In fact, I now use it in all of my cars. :bglasses:
Im currently using 10-W30 Castrol oil. I forgot exactly which one, but I know the case of it was close to $45.00
oil Just dont runn too thin . the only engine i ever lost racing ,the guy I bought the car from ran thin oil in it before he sold it to me. :Smarty:
thank you for the replies Doc, that is the last question I have. I think I understand the viscosities, and will run the 10-40 or 10-30 Maxlife Valvoline. But I don't get the thickness/thinness difference. Do the numbers tell you this? 5 is thinnest? With an HD or straight 30, or 20-50 being the thickest? Sorry, I am too thick
oil viscosity Cris, The higher the number the thicker the oil. 05 wt. is the thinnest, 90wt is the thickest.
I was trying to find info to back this up, but here is something I thought was an explaination: the 1st # is the "base" oil (10W) second # is the higher temp. rating that the "base" oil has had additives to be good for. (40) That was what I remembered reading. Need to document that before taking to the bank-or autozone :laugh: So, (if I remembered right) (now that I think about this, the article may have been in a GSXtra) :beer :beer :beer :beer :beer :beer I need :beer :beer :beer :beer
