Well I tried posting this in the Bench and got no response, maybe this will get some action here. Or is this just not a good idea. The stock card board backing just does not seem strong enough for the rear view mirror remote adjust knob or the power window control's. So I'll ask again here.= I'm going to try to replace just the backing material on the door panels on my 67 GS. I cant really afford to replace them out right and the material looks all right just the original board has pretty much warped and turned into water soaked bloated cardboard. I was thinking on using a thin 1/8" Masonite board, I need some thing strong to support my Power window Switches and the Remote Mirror as both Item pulled right out if the old material. Has any one tried anything like this? I would greatly appreciate any advise given on this build. Thanks
Re: Want to Replace Door backing panel and re-glu the original Material back on new p Pete, Years & years ago before reproduction door panels were available for the Muscle cars. I used to repair them AND got good money to do it. Most often it only required repairing the bottoms were the water got to them but sometimes they required massive repairs. Sometimes it worked and sometimes it didn't. If the panels were warped I would straighten them out by wetting them down and then sandwiching the panel between 2 layers of plywood, after taking all the emblems/metal trim off. Then placing a lot of weight on them (usually by placing the front tire of a parked car on them). I would leave them that way for a couple of weeks, then take them out once they dried and do the repairs. If just the bottoms were bad I would either reinforce the board with some fiberglass, or glue a thin panel of aluminum to the board to stiffen it up. I used to get some sheet aluminum with glue already on it. That worked great. Now on to your 67 panels. You have an up-hill battle for several reasons; 1. By your description they are a soggy mess and probably need the entire boards replaced. 2. You cannot simply glue another board to your existing one because the door panel would be too thick and the door would not close correctly. The panel will most likely "stick" somewhere and try ripping off the door. 3. If I remember correctly the 67 panels use a "nail" like pin to attach the panels to the door itself, unlike the later year panels that use a clip. My gut feeling is you need to purchase or make complete new cardboard panels, and you need to get the ones that function with the newer style 68-72 clips. (The ones I made for the 65 Skylark/GS panels were like this.) It will also require that you buy the newer clips and change the plastic inserts in the doors to fit the newer style clips. You will need to then take the entire skin off the door panels, without tearing anything, attach the new panels to the top metal pieces, and then glue the vinyl skins back on. Chances are by the time you purchase the boards, clips, & retainers (probably from Legendary) and do all this work, the heat-sealed areas will end up looking distorted or "flat" and you will not be happy with the end result. Your best bet would be to either find a fairly decent set of originals to repair, and good luck trying to find a 67 power window set, or buy a repro set and be done with this. It's one thing to repair just the bottoms, but it's another thing entirely to rebuild an entire panel. You wanted an answer. Duane
Re: Want to Replace Door backing panel and re-glu the original Material back on new p Thanks Duane I'm sure I got my work cut out for me and in the long run I know I need new panels as like you said finding used ones with power windows could be a problem, I just had to have a rare car oh boy. I appreciate your response its good info that I hope will come in handy. Your right I will have to replace the whole card board, I was thinking of using thin Masonite board cut to copy the existing card board and try to replace the old material and fasteners so the panel would be very rigid and fit the door like the original. It will be a tall order but I might give it a try I just have to figure out what kind of glue to use Thanks
Re: Want to Replace Door backing panel and re-glu the original Material back on new p Pete, If you replace the board with anything other then the same type of material you will run into another problem. The metal where it attaches to the top edge of the board has little metal fingers that grab the board. You need to line the two up then smack the area with a hammer to set the "fingers" into the board. You can use small pop-rivits with washers but If you use a material that the fingers don't hold.....................the panel ends up being loose. You can probably buy the board material from a trim shop. They use it to make rear shelfs for cars. I would buy the "waterproof" boards. They have a semi waterproof surface on both sides and are a little thicker then the regular stuff. Duane
Re: Want to Replace Door backing panel and re-glu the original Material back on new p I agree with Duane! I've built many replacement door panels, I've done it with rivets w/ washers, too. Honestly...I think it's a nightmare project, because of all the stainless moldings which you will have to pierce the new panel for. Then there is the double chrome mylar raised like striping on the panels, too. Before Duane had mentioned reinforcing the back with metal. I think that's the way to go. You would only need like a 12 X 12" piece or so, just in the mirror control + window switch area. You could just use contact cement on the back, once the screws + clips for the remote bezel and the window switch backing plate are in, it's not going anywhere. It's temporary, but sheet metal is cheap and you plan to buy panels anyways. What Duane is talking about with the rivets, etc, really doesn't apply to your panels, because they are just a flat board that inserts under a metal molding. So, at least you don't have to worry about that! My concern is you don't have the $ now to replace them w/ new. If you mess them up, or whatever you try doesn't work, you are screwed. You will have no panels at all. But adding a small square or rectangle of metal won't show, it's cheap, I think it's worth a try. If they are warped at the bottom, you can always add extra scews for now, you said you will change them eventually anyways. It's only like $10.00 to try it, before you enter a nightmare job!
Re: Want to Replace Door backing panel and re-glu the original Material back on new p Thanks for the input I can't tell you how much this will help just having options for a quick fix. Right now my switches & mirror remote are just hanging there so I do need a quick fix till I can replace the panels the right way. Thanks for the ideas
Re: Want to Replace Door backing panel and re-glu the original Material back on new p Pete, you will still need to cut a notch or hole for the switch and remote cable in the metal. You can use your panel for a template, and just buzz them out with a Dremel. Or you could just "notch" the metal packing, leaving enough metal for support of the bezel clips and switchplate backing, like cut a slot with tinsnips if you follow what I mean.
Re: Want to Replace Door backing panel and re-glu the original Material back on new p Pete I have some 67 PW door panels in black, missing the stainless chrome trim. I will call you tomorrow. John
