Voltage drop on passenger side light

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by V8Adam, Oct 22, 2019.

  1. V8Adam

    V8Adam Well-Known Member

    Hey everybody,
    I noticed that my headlight on the passenger side was a bit dim. I have put a multimeter on it and found a voltage drop (it is only around 3.5v.)

    Am I right in thinking that the issue is probably in the light switch itself?
     
  2. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    If it is the switch, one would expect the same issue with the driver's side headlight. Try the ground at the passenger side light, the socket and check to see if the headlight bulbs are the same. Some of the old and original style bulbs are not as bright as modern replacements.
     
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  3. gsgnnut

    gsgnnut Well-Known Member

    Bad Ground
     
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  4. pbr400

    pbr400 68GS400

    Wiggle the connector at the light. Might need to clean the contacts.
    Patrick
     
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  5. V8Adam

    V8Adam Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the input guys, so some background:
    The passenger side light was out completely. I wiggled the connector and it came on, then went off. So I took all the connectors out and cleaned them up with electrical cleaner and a wire brush. I have since realised that even when it was coming back on, it was only coming back on dimly, as it is now.
    The annoying thing is that all of my lights were working ok, I even posted about them here:
    http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/electrical-lighting-questions.348266/

    So that is what lead me to think that I had done something. The only thing I have done with lights that I could think of was remove the light switch and some work on the instrument cluster bulbs.

    Further developments since I posted:
    1. I am getting a negative 8 volt reading on the green wire.
    2. I also seem to have lost full beam on the inner lights completely. Looking closely at the drivers side high beam, the filament might be fractured.
    I will check the ground, thanks for the advice.
     
  6. Steve Craig

    Steve Craig Gold Level Contributor

    +/- 12V leaving the battery goes directly to the starter. From there it's fused down to #amps( can't remember the size) with a fusible link, one of two at the starter. One serves headlights only, the other powers everything else in/on the car. Check there for a corroded link first. After that it's following it through the headlight switch to the lamps & then to ground. Common issues can be bad conductivity at a corroded ground point.
     
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  7. V8Adam

    V8Adam Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the info Steve. I will check the ground first thing tomorrow and see if that sorts the issue.
     
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  8. Steve Craig

    Steve Craig Gold Level Contributor

    Just read your previous post again. When you took out the headlight switch was there a round metal washer behind it with a tab for a ground wire ?
    Washer get put back & the ground conductor attached ? Connector tight on the harness where it joins the switch ?
    Chassis Manual would be a wise purchase while chasing the electrical gremlins. Shows every conductor, colour , size, connectors, splices etc..
     
  9. V8Adam

    V8Adam Well-Known Member

    Oh my! I am not sure! I will be sure to check that. Thanks so much Steve. I have a workshop manual, are you referring to the Fisher manual?
     
  10. Steve Craig

    Steve Craig Gold Level Contributor

    Fisher Body & Chassis Manual I believe it was called. Mine went when I sold the car with many, many grease & dirt smeared pages.
     
  11. V8Adam

    V8Adam Well-Known Member

    Great, managed to order one from Ebay and was even in the UK! Thanks for the advice :)
     
  12. V8Adam

    V8Adam Well-Known Member

    Just to update this thread, it was a ground issue. Thanks so much for the advice, I didn't think to look there because I had not touched the ground but it must have got moved about. Either that or it's all the bloody RAIN!

    The inner full beam lamps are still not working but I think they are knackered. Going to try and get a conversion done so I can use replacement H4 bulbs.
     
  13. 68 Wildcat

    68 Wildcat Dash Riprock

    A test light is your friend. Just activate the hi beams and probe the wiring to see if they're powering up. I never tried, but perhaps you could remove the old high beams and carefully cut the back of the old beams out and adapt them to H4's. You're going to have to change your avatar to 'Areivir':D
     
  14. V8Adam

    V8Adam Well-Known Member

    I popped the multimeter on the cables and I was getting 10V when clicking on the high beams, so I think the wiring is ok. I am looking into a conversion kit and will go from there.

    I know, I know! Lol! I actually want to change it to my YouTube handle - V8Adam :p
     

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