Very tight large bolt removal tricks?

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by BuickV8Mike, Jan 14, 2020.

  1. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    Hi all,
    I'm trying to remove the large bolt which holds the disc caliper on the front of my 69 GS. The bolt goes into the spindle and it's a blind hole and has very been removed. How how can I get it with the torch? How much torque can a 1/2" impact provide at 90 psig? Do I need to rent a 3/4"?

    Any advise would be great.
    Mike
     

    Attached Files:

  2. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    Eat your wheaties and yarn on it!

    Honestly I've never had much trouble with that bolt. The blind hole is a goood thing. There may be some loctite but it'll break free with minimal effort.
     
  3. 12lives

    12lives Engage! - Jean-Luc Picard

    Make sure you have all the tabs bent flat and out of the way.
     
  4. sriley531

    sriley531 Buckle up, this could get rough....

    Breaker bar and if need be a cheater pipe.
     
    Buicksky likes this.
  5. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    This is key. Also soak the sucker in some penetrating oil and let it sit over night.

    Then do your stretches and tackle the thing.
     
  6. B-rock

    B-rock Well-Known Member

    6 point socket and push in on the socket as you loosen it. The head is not very thick and the socket will want to roll off if you just pull.
     
  7. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    Thanks guys. That's part of the problem as the fenders are in the way. I do have a 6 point socket but I need quite a long extention before the breaker bar and pipe. I think I'll need to add some block to support the whole thing vertically. It might need a couple more hands or a foot to keep the socket on. :)
     
  8. Footbag

    Footbag Well-Known Member

    Floor Jack Stands are great for resting a long extension on to help move the breaker bar out away from fenders. I have used one before to hold the extension that was sticking 20in out from the bolt i was busting loose before. Make sure to be leaning downward when trying to get the bolt to move. No pushing up or forward.
     
  9. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    Turn the wheel and you should be able to work out of the wheel well.
     
    BuickV8Mike likes this.
  10. gsgnnut

    gsgnnut Well-Known Member

    Turn the wheel and use an impact with good tight sockets where ever possible. Just did my silverado this way this weekend. No busted knuckles, strained muscles or busted teeth or scratched paint and the impact works great on tight rusted bolts
     
  11. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    My 1/2" impact at 90 psig wont do it. :(
     
  12. gsgnnut

    gsgnnut Well-Known Member

    Good excuse to get a new compressor!
     
  13. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    The gun says 90 max. I guess I can go more...just this time. ;)
     
  14. Golden Oldie 65

    Golden Oldie 65 Well-Known Member

    I know most people don't want to modify their tools but in my case, whatever works. I have ground down the edges of my impact sockets so they are flush with the opening. It gives a little extra gripping power, particularly on bolts with thinner heads like the one you've dealing with.
     
    BuickV8Mike and 12lives like this.
  15. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    Bill, I want to grind down all my sockets. ;) But honestly you should have two sets. Ok, I'm looking for tricks on these two upper control arm bolts? They are pretending to be studs and I can't get the a arm out. Any ideas, I can't get a good swing?
     

    Attached Files:

  16. ragtops

    ragtops Gold Level Contributor

    They are sort of studs, look at them here;
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1972-...uMAAOSwhvFZJYmO:sc:USPSFirstClass!45638!US!-1
    They are pressed/pounded into the hole and the area with the raised lines prevent them from turning, one good reason I can think of is when you have your car aligned the job can be done from under the hood. If they weren't made that way the alignment tech would need a helper to hold the head of the bolt, but there may be other reasons as well, maybe they stay in place during assembly and that is a plus.
    I have had some success using a pry bar under the hood and pushing them out. Then you must "drive" them back in place. A pain in the azz but now you know.
    I know people who just twist them out and ruin the hole so they came out. You would never know it until you get an alignment.:rolleyes:
     
  17. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    Wow. I would have never known. They are sure stiff in there. Thanks Mike!

    Have a great weekend,
    Mike
     
  18. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    Mike, Are the replacements for if you have to cut them to remove the a arms and then press then out when you have more access?

    Cheers,
    Mike
     
  19. buick64203

    buick64203 Just plum crazy Staff Member

    Heat spindle with a torch. Heat the threads of the spindle, NOT the bolt. Get it red hot and it will come out. I use a plumbers torch, which is just a tank of acetylene.
     
  20. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    Jason, I'm try to push back these bolt studs which hold the upper shaft so I can remove the upper control arm from the car. I'm not following what your saying.

    20200119_104419.jpg

    Thanks so much,
    Mike
     

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