Hey guys(And gals)... It's been a while since I posted, and keeping up w/ this site is a bit overwhelming. I just figured I'd share what's going on w/ my two boattails (72 riv's, each). I refer to them as Riv1 and Riv2, to make it easier to distinguish, and I'll give you a summary history of them to provide some background. Riv1 was purchased back in Oct 2001, and since then has been through an engine. I blew the engine this year, went to Buick World in Enumclaw Wa, and got a "runner" for $850.00 (comments, please) I'm driving that one, but I'm also using a lot of oil (no visible smoke) and putting 30wt in it. Right now, Riv1 has the Quadrajet sitting atop an Edlebrock Performer intake, and HEI. There's a knocking in the engine, sometimes...I haven't isolated it, but I gotta tell ya, I'm getting TIRED of Buick ROD KNOCK. Grrrr. Riv1 also received a front brake job about 10,000 miles ago (Rotors, Bearings, Calipers, Pads and Hoses and seals). Riv1 will be going up for sale soon. I live in Bellevue, Wa now. Riv1 is a base model Riv, P/S, PB, A/C and a Bench Seat. Riv2 was purchased sight unseen with what was described as a tapping lifter. Tapping Lifter my butt! Rod Knock! (Anyone tell me how to strengthen the oiling system on these 455's, PLEASE?) 1 blown engine later, it is in the midst of a rebuilt engine install, coupled w/ some troubleshooting related to having blown the engine (y'know that "one wire" concept for homes, where 'net, phone, electric and cable come in on the same physical line? I tried prototyping it in Riv2. Unsuccessfully.) The engine on this one is a 72 455, 8.5:1 compression pistons, TA212 (I think) cam, Edelbrock Performer Intake and TA's shorty headers (w/ heat coating). This one has bucket seat, column shift, a landau top (Late 72 and 73 model year option) and power windows, power brakes and A/C. This is the one I'm keepin'. Goals for this one include Console Shift, passenger side view mirror (Already bought, but I'll pay someone else to cut my door to install it RIGHT), switch pitch torqu converter, rebuilt TH400 tranny, and a Gear Vendors Over/Underdrive unit. I also wanna throw an ARB air-locker in the rear end, and go w/ PST suspension. Eh, well...there's the thumbnail sketch. Updates: Riv1 gets my short term attention, minor maintenance is kept up, and the long I have to drive it, the more money I'll put into it. I'm NOT one of those that believes in "Hell, why put money into a car I'm selling? Let the next guy worry about it." Let's say I believe in "Carma", eh? Tires, and suspension will be in Riv1's future (springs and bushings, and any suspension hardware that NEEDS replacing) I'll fix what's broke, but I'm not gonna "improve" it. There's an irritating exhaust leak at the manifold, but I'm not sure which one. I'll pay someone to fix that, too. I live in an apt, and don't have the equipment (or knowhow) to do much work myself. Everytime I dink w/ my own car, I break it. So I've learned to wait...and do it under the watchful eye of someone who DOES know what they're doing. Riv2, I'm hoping to have it as my daily driver before Sept. My b'day is the 22nd of this month, and it would be a FANTASTIC b'day gift if I could get it then. We'll see how it all works out. I'm not in a hurry, as I'd rather have it done RIGHT than just have it DONE. If anyone has ANYTHING to contribute about my plans, suggestions, etc...I'd REALLY like to hear from you. Nathan
Glad to hear you are a commited Riv fan. The 455 oiling issue really isn't an issue in a basic street motor. That is, if some attention is paid to some basics. 1) Have Jim Weise port your timing cover. 2) Use TA's booster plate and adjustable pressure regulator. 3) Use a 5/8" sump if it isn't already set up for one. 4) Use TA's teflon coated dual grooved cam bearings and be sure they are installed as per TA's detailed instructions. 5) If you want to use a cam, then forgo Stage1 springs. Have the heads machined for TA's 1125 dual valve springs and be sure the shop sets the tip height to spec and also sets the open and closed rates to spec. Just throwing them in there without shimming them is NOT what you want to do. 5) Be sure the rod and main clearance is set to 1.5 to 2 thou. NO MORE. 6) Behind the cam gear are 2 "freeze plugs" that plug the oil galleys. The plugs must be staked in place and driven in not one iota past flush! The main oil galley runs right behind the passenger one and any bit past flush that plug is in is that much less oil the engine sees. 7) Use ARP main studs. 8) Have the mains align honed. 9) Have the rods resized. 10) Have the engine balanced with NEW balancer (TA has new ones) and flex plate. 11) Use EOS with every oil change and on break-in. At hot idle I have 30 psi oil pressure. These are the minimums you should do. These steps, ONLY WHEN DONE BY A SHOP THAT KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING, will give you many years of worry free driving.
When you sell Riv1, i might be interested if its at the right time for me and the car is in good shape. Sounds like you will be on the right track if you listen to Yardley. :TU: Goodluck.
GM Engine Oil Supplement. You have to get it at a GM parts counter. Some dealerships are clueless about what it is, others have it right there. All new GM cars are usually broken in with it. Dennis Manner (father of the 455) said he recommends not just breaking in a Buick v8 with it, but that we should use it at every oil change. I bought a half dozen bottles last time I was at a parts counter and use it religiously. Hey, it can't hurt, and my oil pressure is through the roof!
The main thing I have found is: STAY AWAY FROM DETONATION, it will pound out the rod bearings! Sure it's tempting to hit it sometimes but especially this time of year it will detonate if the motor is hot.... The oil system is not that bad. I put over 2000 passes on a factory built 70 455 and it had the wimpy 1/2" pickup....but I NEVER detonated. Makes me laugh when people spend all kinds of $$$ building a motor then insist on running 93 octane (or run too much timing) to save a few bucks. Even my Stage 2 has little done to the oil system. 73 block, TA cover, booster plate and stock pump. Spins to 6800. Bruce
Jeff, thanks for clarifying. Bruce, sounds like you've a killer little beastie there. 6800rpm? Guys, is it safe for me to pull that kinda rpm, if the block is prepped right? What would be considered "right" prepping, then? Nathan
Nathan, you will have no need to rev that high unless you have a BIG cam and well ported heads--i.e. race motor. A street motor would be making no power at that RPM, even if it COULD safely turn that fast without self-destructing.
Nathan, main studs, half fill of block filler and internal balance....if you care to make lots of power (up to 700 maybe) and rev it...... Bruce
Hey Bquick...that sounds just what I like to do. Rev the piss outta them...(Maybe I'm a ricer/tuner at heart?) Just yesterday as I was on Hwy 520 here in Washington, I am pretty sure I floated the valves briefly...rpms were up, power went DOWN, and a big 'ol gush of stuff came out the exhaust (Having blown a coupla bbb's in my time, EVERY time the engine makes funny sounds, I check my rear/side view mirror, to see what's going on back there...). Valve Float, ugh. I need to build a motor. Nathan
