I hear so many myths and partial truths about Mallory ignition modules that I thought I'd try posting the facts on a the forum to clear things up. Mallory has three types of modules (not including the new rev limiting HEI module) that fit inside the distributor: Unilite, Magnetic Breakerless Ignition (MBI) and the new E-Spark. The Unilite and E-Spark are similar but the E-Spark is manufactured on automated equipment to reduce manufacturing costs so that the E-Spark conversion kits can be sold at about the same price as a Pertronix. The MBI uses a similar circuit but uses a magnetic pickup as a triggering device rather than an optical pickup. The Unilite and the MBI are available in complete Mallory distributors. The Unilite and the E-Spark are available in conversion kits for stock type point distributors. All three modules were originally designed to replace point style ignitions. Point style ignitions use coils with high primary resistance and ballast resistors (or resistor wires such as used in AMC, Ford and GM). Thus, the Mallory modules were designed to use a ballast or resistor wire. Unilite, MBI and E-Spark modules (and Pertronix) are basicly electronic replacements for points. They are not amplifier boxes like a Hyfire or an MSD box. They are simply a way to get rid of the points. The spark output is usually a little higher than points due to the increased dwell time (and you don't have to worry about point bounce) but the output is not significantly greater than points. HEI type modules or external amplifier boxes are the only way to significantly increase spark output. All three Mallory modules wire the same way. There are three wires: The brown wire is grounded to the engine. Make sure you also have a good ground cable/strap between the engine and the frame/battery. Do NOT ground the brown wire from the module directly to the frame or battery. If you do, the brown wire will become a ground for the starter during cranking which will melt the brown wire and take out the module. The green wire connects to the negative side of the coil. The red wire can connect to the positive side of the coil but it's better to connect it to the high side (12 volt) of the ballast resistor. Remember, the ballast or resistor wire is there to limit the current through the coil and the green wire. The red wire prefers to see full battery voltage. If you connect the red wire to the positive side of the coil (which is also the low side of the ballast) the engine may not start as easy especially if the battery is low. If your car has a resistor wire rather than a ballast, you can either hook the red wire to the positive side of the coil, or better yet, find a place to hook it that will feed the red wire full battery voltage whenever the key is on. If you are also using an external box such as a Hyfire or MSD, follow the wiring instructions that come with the box as the module will need to be wired differently. A ballast or resistor wire is not needed when using an external box since all the current for the coil goes through the box rather than the module. (When used with an external box, modules and points last almost forever because very little current goes through them). Some people like to leave the ballast or resistor wire in place when hooking up an external box (it won't hurt anything) so that if the box fails you can bypass the box and still get home running on the module alone. I often hear people ask what voltage they should have at the coil when running a Mallory module without an external box. The standard answer is about 7 to 10 volts measured at the coil with the engine running. However, while this is easy to measure, it is not the best thing to measure since the voltage will vary depending on the voltage output of the alternator. What really matters is the total resistance of the primary side of the ignition. This includes the ballast (or resistor wire) and the primary resistance in the coil (measured with an ohm meter between the positive and negative terminals on the coil). The ideal total resistance is a minimum of 1.4 ohms and a maximum of about 3.5 ohms. More than 3.5 ohms is safe for the module but the spark may be too weak for optimum performance. Use an ohm meter to measure the resistance across the ballast and add that to the amount of primary resistance in the coil. The total should be between 1.4 and 3.5 ohms. You may need to measure the resistance of the ballast after it has warmed up since some ballast resistors increase in resistance with temperature. If your car has a resistor wire rather than a ballast it can be difficult to measure the resistance in the wire as the wire gets lost in the harness. If so, assume that the resistance in the wire is about 1.0 ohms which is typical. Some coils have so much primary resistance that a ballast resistor or resistor wire is not necessary. Mallory has two new Promaster coils that have all the resistance built into the coil (29450 and 30450). Using these coils, no additional resistance is needed. Having all the resitance built into the coil has drawbacks however. The coil will run hotter which will reduce the life of the coil somewhat. Also, high resistance coils are not recommended for use with external boxes as the coils will overheat and fail (sometimes even explode!). Don't use solid core plug wires with any electronic igntion. If you weld on the car, disconnect the module before doing so. Unlike popular opinion, the standard Pertronix module also requires a certain minimum resistance. When using a Pertronix on a car that was using points, no ADDITIONAL resistor is needed, but this is also true for Mallory modules. Pertronix also sells their own coils with high resistance so that a ballast is not needed. Now you know the real deal.
There is very, very little tech info here that I have NOT posted previoulsy on these boards, in answering people's questions on Mallory and PerTronix products. I'd be interested to hear you tell me I posted "myths" and incorrect info you allude to, as I have been working with Mallory products for over 35 years, and my dad was a personal friend of Boots Mallory himself. Some here may not know that you are a Mallory employee that frequents many boards, NOT just this one, most times, just to advertize Mallory products via lengthy info-mercials, most boards NOT allowing that, but you do it anyway. Note: it's OK to post lengthy Mallory info-mercials here, though, but should be posted in Sparky's Corner or better still, the Vendor's Section. It's nice to see a tech post, but please, post something that hasn't already been done. And, I've posted and recommended here as well, many, many times, that I would use a Unilite any day over any and all PerJunk Ignitors. How many pre-computerized Buick vehicles do you own?? I own: 195something, can't remember right off, straight 8 1963 Skylark, 215, 200 horse, 4 spd 1965 Riviera, 425, 2x4's 1971 GS, Stage car I also do a lot of 215/Rover modification engine work What, again, is your hands-on Buick experience?
Hello Ignition Man Don't take offense Mr. IgnitionMan. I find your posts some of the most accurate. I didn't have you in mind when I posted. As for info-mercials, I never post unless someone asks a question on a post or in a personal message or email. The post above was a response to a rather long email from a Buick owner who had been told that he should run two ballast resistors and then was upset when the engine would not start. I spent quite a bit of time writing the email and felt a few others on the forum might find the info useful. If I post an answer on a forum I am less likely to have to answer the same question a dozen times by email. I would also like to note that you post much more often than I do and some might feel that your posts often have a "info-mercial" feel to them. I don't blame you. As the owner of a small ignition company, I imagine that much of your sales come from those on the many forums that you frequently post on. Please don't be upset with me for doing the same thing that you do just because I work for Mallory. I have never mentioned you or your products in a post. I have an engineering degree from NMSU. I worked for Tilton engineering (the clutch/starter company) for six years before I began working for Mallory/Erson Cams ten years ago. I am sure that your knowledge of the Mallory of the Boots era is pretty good. But do you really think it is better than my knowledge of the current Mallory products? At work I sit right next to the electrical engineer that designs all the Mallory electrical components and I design 90% of the mechanical components. All my electrical info on Mallory products comes from the man who designs them. He has worked for Mallory for over 15 years. By the way, the Unilite has been redesigned twice since Boots was here. My DAILY DRIVER is a 1970 Buick GS455 that runs parts from TA Performance, Poston, Mallory, Erson, Holley and Edelbrock. All of which I installed. Over the years I have owned and hot rodded, VW's, SB Chevy, BB Chevy, AMC V8, Pontiac V8, SB Mopar and SB Ford. I also currently own a 1972 Olds 442. I am building a 455 in my garage right now for the 442 as the stock 350 is no powerhouse. Hope that answers all your questions sir. I hope we can avoid stepping on each others toes in the future as I think there is room enough for both of us on the forums. I think it is a good thing to get as much info out there as possible from the people who do the actually work at or own the ignition companies. You know as well as I do that if we don't respond to forum questions, people who don't know the facts will do so.
