I'm glad I read this thread. I have a U-Joint from NAPA downstairs new in box sitting for a few years that I was going to install but after reading this I think I'll just take it back. How hard can it be to just manufacture a U-Joint that fits the application it's designed for?
What's the correct Spicer number for U-Joint? Is there a difference depending on drive train/rear end as well? A-Body I'm talking.
I would have taken the whole shaft over to Nassau Driveshaft. Buy the joints from them and get them installed. Better for your blood pressure Slim.
Is this the right U joint? https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p4...sal_joint_3r_series_non_greaseable.html#photo
Have the same issues here with rear differentials. YOU HAVE TO BE VERY TOLERATE IN THIS WORLD THESE DAYS. Bring your patients too ....cause talking with anyone about the troubles you have as most stores and suppliers haven't a clue because they really have no experience in mechanics. We are the last of of a dying bred that cares. Jim JD Race
That actually looks more like the stock u-joint Larry doesn't it? Maintenance free. I mean you can still pop the clips and grease the needle bearings if you need to.
Non-greaseable u-joints - stronger. Also, if u cannot do most of the work on your car, u better have deep pockets.
The problem with that is there aren't many people in this world that can do a job to my exacting standards. I remember dropping off the flywheel for the beater at the machine shop. I go to pick it up, and nor only is it resurfaced, but it was glass beaded and painted. I commented to him that it came out great. His response- "well, I know how you are" lol
First, my apologies also to Jason for "thread wobble". I have the same issue here too. I don't expect anyone of my guys to work on the old stuff. They didn't grow up working on this stuff, so it's me on 95% of it. Which highlights another problem. I have a second building behind the main shop, with 1/2 of it used for ADAS calibrations, and the other 1/2 has a 12k lift and tools/junk for longer-term projects like diesel engine work and for classic cars. A few years ago, I was buried in old car work and buried with body-shop sublets (ADAS, programming, etc). I spent far too much time out there and the rest of my shop suffered immensly. I could sense the morale taking a nose dive. So I made a lot of changes to the shop format, not only with the classic car work, but with the body shop sublets. Headaches went way down, shop morale and productivity went up, and the bottom line (and my BP!) has never been better. Another way to handle it is to lower your standards to reduce your stress level. And that I can't do. Another pitfall about classis car work is you breathe on or even look at ANYTHING, and it's broken! Couple that with the other client issues mentioned before, and you're better off not get involved with all but a few. Because once you "lick that door handle", you're heading down that rabbit hole (or likely you're already lost in the maze!).
Spicer says 64-72 Buick Skylark (hmmm,) Spicer PN's 5-3147X and non greaseable 5-795X which is what i have will advise once shaft is back from powder coat. I appreciate company making parts for our cars, i realize they are not original nor NOS so i guess were stuck with close enough in some cases.
Maybe we could have a sticky of common parts such as in this post that fit like they are supposed to???
That's great as long as they put the right parts in the right box. I get more parts that are boxed wrong than you can shake a stick at.
I did 5 joints in Riv's shaft,all spicer. Costed a little more but 0 problems at all. Even with that crazy CV-joint. Spicers looks and fills better than NOS ones. Peace, Kacper.
Uhhh Jason, weren't the factory u joints held in by melted plastic in the groove? Aren't you going to duplicate that
