Thanks for the heads up, I will keep that in mind! It is really exciting just sitting in the car surrounded by the roll cage and looking at the custom gauges, the car is one of a kind! The people who have seen the car in person are amazed at how straight the body is and how good it looks... Another thing I get a lot of comments on is that there are no body mods other than the cage, no wheel tubs, nothing cut up, going fast with class!:TU:
Funny how that worksuzzled: If you have the money, you dont have the time... If you have the time, you dont have the moneyou:
Yeah I hear ya! I bought a nitrous kit for the car today! I am running a 50 shot of the good stuff and it is set to shut off when the boost hits 4 PSI... When I have the 8 PSI boost setting this will help the car get up to boost even quicker and then after the boost hits 4PSI the nitrous will shut off automatically. The kit is actually designed to run with turbos and to shut off at whatever boost setting I pick. Then when I crank the boost up to 10-20 PSI I will leave the nitrous on the whole time as the nitrous also intercools the air and fuel! People have been running a small 50 shot on Turbocharged V8 engines and gaining 80-100 HP at the wheels due to the wonderful way nitrous works with turbocharging! So my plan on low boost is to leave off idle without any boost, have the nitrous spray till 4 PSI and then the turbo will take over from there... It takes about 1.5 seconds for the turbos to go from 0 to 20 PSI however with a little shot of nitrous it will be even quicker!
Well after about a month of research into my fuel system I finally sorted it out LOL.... The stock fuel tank and pickup, lines etc are NOT going to work for my application. I found a fuel tank built for EFI applications and it features extra baffles, and a large hole so I can mount a MASSIVE fuel pump in the tank, and it is galvanized so it should last well. I always say start with a good clean fuel system and a rebuilt carb so I am taking my own advice. Top of the line 10 AN fuel lines go to and from the fuel tank. A Boost referenced fuel pressure regulator will feed the Holley 650 Carb which is modified to handle boost. The fuel pressure will rise with the boost to keep things in check. I did not want the fuel pump out of the tank due to cooling issues and being that I wanted to ensure it was never "pulling fuel" up hill out of the tank or running dry. Ideally an elect. pump is either in the fuel tank or down under the fuel tank and gravity fed. Obviously the factory setup does not work in my application. The reasons I avoided a fuel cell are: I want the trunk space and I do not want possible fuel fumes in the car. I also like the sleeper look of the stock tank in place and I also want the capacity as I want to drive the car 200 miles between fill ups. I considered sumping the fuel tank but then I have to worry about it leaking and it would be obvious with the sump and my car is a sleeper... Tinting the widows to hide the cage LOL.... Flat hood etc. An air fuel sensor on each side of the exhaust along with exhaust temp moitors will help me keep the carb in check. A throttle position sensor will be attached to the carb and the megasquirt computer will data log everything from the air fuel ratios, exhaust temps, intake temps, throttle position, RPM etc. This way I can tune the car like a modern tuner WITHOUT any computer actually controling the fuel or ignition system. At some point I may swap in the EFI system I have but I think I can get it running 98% perfect with the carb, MSD triggered HEI and MSD ignition box. Using a MSD Boost Timing Master ignition box so I can set the timing to retard under boost. For timing I am starting with 18 degrees initial timing, 12 degrees of mechanical advance all in by 2300 RPM and 10 degrees of vacuum advance on a ported vacuum source so I will only get vac. advance at part throttle. One way check valve in the vac. advance line so it does not blow off under boost. Then I will play with the amount of boost that the box takes out. Starting with 0.5 degrees per PSI of boost (so 5 degrees with 10 PSI). This should be conservative and leave me with 25 degrees of timing at 10 PSI of boost. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=152/home_id=143/mode=cat/cat152.htm
Sean is a 10 an fuel line big enough? Ours is a 24 :laugh: Keep moving forward Spring is trying to get here
LOL... yeah and you make twice the HP and your type of fuel needs 2 times what mine does to hit the same HP... Maybe if we get those aum heads I will need more fuel system... And a better roll cage to run 8s....:laugh:
My latest improvement to the project is a 4L80E 4 speed auto with a lock up torque converter. RPM on the highway at 70 MPH will be 2000, and 2800 at 100 MPH. This is with a 30.5" tall tire, 3.42 gear and the 0.75 overdrive gear. At the track I am using a 28" tall tire. A toggle switch on the dash to lock up the torque converter, with a brake switch to make sure it shuts off when I hit the brakes. Paddle shifters on the steering wheel will manually control the transmission. The column shifter is still hooked up and will be used to select park, Reverse, or Drive and then once in Drive the trans will only shift when I use the paddle shifters up and down. A LCD display will show if I am in gear 1,2,3 or 4. I had the trans built up to handle 1000 HP, and ordered a custom torque converter that has a 3000 RPM stall and the lockup. a little pricey for this setup but the MPG gain over the Th400 will be substancial.
I like that tank Sean. Looks like a nice setup. I have a tank with sump to put in the red car, but may change my mind. And, like everybody on this site.....get it running!
I actually ended up changing my mind and going with a stock style tank but mounting a Walpro 400 fuel pump in the tank connected to a Rob MC 1/2 pickup setup. I am cutting a trap door at the top of the fuel tank to install some baffles, the fuel pump, and then welding it back shut.
Got a nice big intercooler! It is used however helped make 1200 Wheel HP on a Twin Turbo V8 in a GN, custom made by Ken Duttweiler and cost $1100 new. Snagged it for really low $ so I will re-plumb the boosted air to this big sucker in front of my radiator. Also got my 4L80E custom torque converter from Hughes, it was $900 but it was custom built and will handle 1000 HP without an issue and has electronic lockup for highway cruising with 100% lockup. I also have the electronic shifting kit which was custom built so I can run either a mouse to shift the gears or push buttons on the steering wheel. manual shift only no auto shift but the column shift still selects Park N, and Drive. A LED shows gears 1 through 4.
looks to be about a 17in wide core, whats height and width..looks like 4.5in wide lol That thing is thick!
$300 custom controller for the push button shifted 4 speed 4L80E trans built for 1200 HP:Quote from the seller: "I saw that you weren't running an intercooler in your twin project, and I have this kicking around the garage. A friend of mine ran a GN in twin turbo form on the street in Brooklyn for a few years before it became a full on tube chassis car, and this was the intercooler Ken Duttweiler built for him. The car ran pretty hard (9 second quarter mile) but I don't know much about the flow rate or anything like that. The inlets are 2.5 inch pipe, and there is one 2.5 inch outlet at the bottom."I should take a picture of the SFI rated ATI balancer and the TA SFI flexplate... Next move is POR the underside of the car then add re-chromed rear bumper, add the tubular adjustable rear suspension and rear disk brakes. Then drive shaft loop, install the engine and fire it up, complete the interior etc.
I pushed the car out of the garage to coat the floor with epoxy and decided to snap a few pics: car poised and ready for the re-chromed bumper and new lenses: Nice angle:
