I went to start my GS 455,it's been a while and she turned over,almost started then nothing? I turn the key and no clicking noise to the starter,I got it once,but now nothing? I have lights,some of the dash guages respond,fuses look good,but no sounds now.Is it the ignition switch? Solenoid switch? Anyway to test? Damn big blocks!
How much diagnosis did you do before you posted? We can start with charging the battery or a jump start, and go from there...it's a long journey! Devon
I had the charger on the battery,then went to engine start with the charger.The battery is good,but I always have a hard time starting it.She almost started,then nothing.Battery still has a charge.Usually you would get a clicking noise from the starter,right?
Did you try the "bang on the starter trick"? Im pretty sure thats the correct technical term.:Smarty:
Yup, starter is probably bound up. Have someone get in the car and turn the key to the start position as you simultaniously hit the starter with a hammer. If it starts that way, you have a bad armature in the starter. Time for a new one. I usually take my stuff to Larry at L&L in Bohemia on Lakeland
Usually, the "clicking" is from the solenoid not allowing current to pass correctly to get the starter going. Yours could be all the way fried if you had issues in the past. Kinda hard to put a finger on over the web. Shootin in the dark,, And what he said^
yea, clicking per turn when starter is bad...no lights if battery is dead...rapid clicking usualy when solinoid is bad or just a bad ground connection do you got a bad ignition/tuneup where it isnt getting enough spark?
Thanks guys,I didn't think of that because I figured it was the ignition switch being there was no clicking sound.I'll give it a whirl,the last time I had to beat a starter was like 20 years ago.
Turn your headlights on and hit the key. If they dim the starter is jammed, if they do not dim the solenoid is not working to put power to the starter. That could be the neutral safety switch, starter ground or a loose/broken hot wire at the solenoid, or a stuck solenoid plunger. As was said there are a host of possible reasons for the problem. I was a charter member of the LIBCA when it was first formed. I had a 1937 Roadmaster then. Live in VA now. Lot lower taxes! Tom
Hey I was wondering if you made any headway with this? I had the exact same problem a couple of days ago, figured I'd join your thread instead of making a new one, join troubleshooting forces so to speak. I get no noises either. Battery is good, voltage gauge shows over 12v, dips ever so slightly when ignition key is turned (not as much as before though), but nothing. I got under the car and tried shorting the starter motor, turns over just fine. I have an MSD 6AL box, does this sound like the ignition switch or possibly the MSD box shat itself? It was fine 1 hour before then...
The dip in the voltmeter reading is normal since you begin feeding the ignition system and gauges, etc. If the engine spun over when you shorted the starter solenoid it will probably be either the neutral safety switch (NSS), ignition switch or the starter solenoid. The ignition system does not play a part in the cranking circuit so I would not worry about that. Just be sure you are in Park first. If you want to completely rule out your ignition system turn the key on and short the solenoid contacts again and the engine should start. To rule out the solenoid as the problem take a piece of #12 wire and run from the battery positive lead to the small wire at the solenoid. This is the one that comes form the NSS. Make the connection by temporarily touching the connection point and the engine should crank. If it does the problem is in either the NSS or ignition switch. To determine which, connect a voltmeter between ground and the connections on the NSS and hit the start switch. Test one connection at a time. You should see 12+ volts on each contact. If not the ignition switch is the problem. If you do jump the NSS and try starting the engine again with the ignition switch.
I have seen this crap caused by a loose, or defective battery terminal. Try tapping the terminals in one direction, then the other. This will typically dislodge anything between the battery terminal and the cable end. Something else to try is to try cranking the engine, then touch both battery connections. If one is hot, it is the culprit. Be careful here, as these terminals can get VERY hot, but there will be no doubt which is the problem. If that clears it up, there is a good chance that this will clear up the need for charging as well, as a problem here will directly affect the battery's ability to draw current during charging. Once the terminals are cleaned up, put some battery terminal grease, or a light coat of wheel bearing grease on the assembled terminals. This will prevent the battery gassing from oxidizing the terminals, which is the cause of the problem. Let us know... Ray
Grounds Grounds Grounds - Check all your grounds! This has happened to me a bunch of times,and it always winds up being a ground somewhere... Check the firewall strap, batter terminal and ground cable connnection at engine to start... Rhett
I got lucky and after troubleshooting the starter, ignition, grounds, etc, and 20 minutes of digging through wiring under the dash, it turned out one of the previous owner's connections had come undone. so happy ending here. thanks for the help everyone.
Just to update,it was the starter. I got a rebuilt one and while I was down there I replaced the positive cable with a new thicker guage cable,because of all the starting problems I've had. Amazing that there would be such a difference. All that turning and turning that I used to do,and now it's just a quick click on the ignition and she starts right up. I feel like I have a new car.That and a near 60 degree day really woke up the car which ran so nice today. The new holley and 275 60 meats all seamed to dial in. I had to celebrate until I heard sirens. So I'm not down on big blocks anymore . Thanks for all your help. Tom.
