I got a SP3 intake and new timing cover setup packed and ready to , would make you good package price on
To the poster I would find a shop that would not mind working on a Buick motor first off. Then I would get the specs on how the rods and mains should be set up give this to the shop and have them build it. if you can budget it. You could always pull it out and have just the bottom rebuilt. But I am with Jay on this it will cost some good money to do a turbo or a charger set up, If you know nothing about a motor other than basic stuff it will be hard to do. I saw too many of my brothers friends try this and if they knew nothing about tuning or what parts to buy they got into engine trouble real quick. Jay has successfully had a turbo engine set up and if anyone knows about that system I would think it would be him on that system. For about 800 bucks you could have a good nitrous system on there. :grin:
You better start looking for another shop... Or even better.... Get beers and sit down and read on here... I rebuild my 350 and beefed it up with a lot of help from these guys here.. Get huggers. Sp3.... You ll appreciate that intake as soon as you turbo the 350 Gesendet von meinem D6503 mit Tapatalk
Depends on year of engine and engine code. An estimate is Lower compression could be anywhere between 150-200hp and the hi compression 350-4 225-275 hp vs the advertised ratings. Headers will help. Intake would be minimal on a stock engine. If you had a 10.5 compression engine with a 413 cam then you might get a 60 hp different with those parts as engine has more demand for better flowing pieces. To make this simple as mentioned . Get a rear end gear(3series) , 2500 convertor. Cam ,headers. Tune combo (timing changes,timing curve, jetting and metering rod/hanger change) which since your not doing yourself better to have Quadrajet Power rebuild carb for you after you decide on cam/headers,gear,convertor change. That way it won't need a change after a part upgrade.
Is this like 3lbs of boost? :bla: What about a fuel supply? It won't work on the stock fuel system. Gotta get oil to the turbo and back to the crankcase? How is that gonna work? Cost of lines and fittings. Gonna need a wideband O2 for tuning. Gonna need a good spark. Stock points and coil ain't gonna cut it for those cylinder pressures. Where the hell are you gonna put an air filter? Or really the turbo for that matter. So if it's that cheap and easy, why is no one doing it?
Adapt a turbo kit like this; http://www.ebay.com/itm/T04E-23PC-T...ash=item58e9aa5771:g:AN0AAOSwImRYSMTA&vxp=mtr Top the engine off with a power adder self learning fuel injection from here; http://fitechefi.com/ There ya go, self learning fuel injected turbo boosting for around $2,500!! Haven't tried the turbo kit so can't recommend or not recommend it, but probably would try one myself if in I was looking to turbo something. Haven't tried the FI kits either, but only heard good things about those so probably worth a try. Or if you want to do a N/A stroker engine then one of those could be built with your budget if you're willing to do the work? Derek
Hmm. Lets find some buick flanges, gaskets, cut this up weld that up. **** doesn't come close to fitting. Still need fuel and a decent spark. Oh. Need downpipes too.. And lots of other stuff you never thought about. 5K
I added over $500 for extras. o No: Actually adapters may be able to be made to bolt to the heads that the turbo headers bolt to? Not my car or not my project so I don't know, it is thousands of miles away from me. But I would say there is an 85% chance it can be done, even if its another $500 over the $2,500, it is still within the budget. :Brow: Derek
If custom adapters don't work, then these header flanges that TA sells for $145 could be welded to the turbo headers fitted in the car; http://taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1825A So there is another path to making it work. Down pipes shouldn't be to horribly hard or expensive to make at a custom exhaust shop. I like to look for the least financial resistance to the most HP. But like I wrote, I have never tried that turbo kit so I can't recommend or not recommend it. o No: Derek
Ahhaha... Why you tell the secret on here... My wife might login here somehow... Now im screwed hahaha Gesendet von meinem D6503 mit Tapatalk
Derek.. Even if you welded the proper Buick flanges on. Those headers would not be remotely close to fitting between the engine and the upper control arms or the steering shaft. That's the main reason Mark Burton made the log type manifolds. Do you want pics?
Pictures are always cool to look at! I didn't like the way those headers looked either but there are ones that will fit in tighter spaces like these; http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-CHEVY-S...ash=item25caa9b7dc:g:eJwAAOSwEzxYSg0E&vxp=mtr There are also some kits that have this style turbo header like this one; http://www.ebay.com/itm/T04-63AR-50...ash=item2ef8d14a3f:g:b0EAAOSwA3dYSMW9&vxp=mtr Or a kit for a Camaro might be a bit more compact; http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Small-B...ash=item3a7a67bbb3:g:FHIAAOxykUZTh3Aw&vxp=mtr For around the same price of all the other kits I posted a link for but this one is rated for an extra 750 HP!! :shock: I would even make my own headers if I had to just to use this kit and sell off the headers from the kit if I couldn't make them work. A custom shop would probably charge around $500 to $1,000 to build the turbo headers for his car minus the $100 to $200 he sells the ones from the kit, plus about another $500 to $1,500 to install the kit, throw in a blow through carb and in a bit over the high end of the budget? If he could do his own headers and install would be WAY under budget with $$ leftover for the FI. What do you think Jay, need another turbo car? With what you learned on your last car you could probably do this no problem, except maybe the headers and down pipes if you don't weld? If you had to have headers made anyway it wouldn't even have to be a sbb that you boost. Derek
Headers are completely not necessary, the stock manifolds exited in the stock location is all you need to make good power. I wouldn't want the stock manifolds on something I was trying to really show out with, but for 600 or so at the crank the stock iron units will get it done, it's been a little while since I been under a 350 Skylark but I'm almost positive you could run the 2.25 pipes back along the block up to engine, and certainly could run them under the cradle there in the pocket where the control arms mount. As far as the under car mounting goes, oil to it is no problem, returning oil back isnt either you get an actual return pump, or Grainger has several pumps that have low amp draw and would work fine. Air filter is just a cone filter mounted on the inlet, would I drive it the rain , nah I guess not wouldn't make much sense to do so anyway. Fuel and spark demand isn't very much on a low compression low boost setup, simple Holley Black could handle it fine. 1/2 in aluminum line is cheap enough. Here soon I'll be doing a kit for a board member on tight budget, I'll be sure to start or a thread or he will and we'll see what a 350 can do with a small single t4
I agree with Jay 100%. No way you are building a turbo system for $1500. Take it from the few of us that have turbo'd a 350. Attached is my cost list. I sourced as much used as I could. Give or take a few hundred on a few of the add ons, but you are minimum $4k to do it right. Fuel system is a big expense and oiling lines are a bigger expense than you imagine. I even build my own down pipes from some 3" I already had for free and still almost $5k. Steering shaft barely makes it through all of that. Even with the log manifold, I had to shave a bolt head that touched the steering shaft. Once you get all that sorted with your downpipe, you now run right into the brake booster and reservoir. Navigate that correctly and next is to fit a nice 3" pipe through a 3.001" gap between the frame rail and body after a little hammer work on the fender well. I can't remove my drivers side downpipe with fender on. Pictures talk.... Even with all the pains there were during install, I would not trade it for anything. Plenty of articles for doing LS turbo builds on a budget which still run $3k or so doing the labor yourself. And you'll park next to a few of them at your next car show with the same setup. Guess how many turbo V8 Buicks you end up parking next to???
And the most expensive thing about making big power with ANY engine is: Rebuilding or replacing your rear end and transmission to handle big power... Making power is easy but harnessing it and laying it down to the pavement reliably is where the costs get up there. But it is the same deal if you go with a BBC, BBB, or power adder LS engine the engine costs are the least of your concern once you make enough power to rip the transmission apart in 5 minutes.
I'm going to point this out one more time then I'll bow out, on your price list there is ALOT of "optional" stuff, for instance the $2200 kit , simply not needed to put boost thru the carb. My break down above describes how to go about that,.. twins, there again simply not needed, your buying two of everything, wide band not needed on a low boost application, nor is a custom cam a must, nor is a big $ Carb to get started with especially with low boost. Now I completely understand not everyone can do what others can as far as fabrication and labor, but to say it's not possible isn't correct and shouldn't be thrown around so loosely. It may turn others off , I'm not trying to blow smoke , just want anyone reading this to not think it's not possible, in fact it's exactly the opposite. I have a very close friend that does this work daily every evening/weekends and has built close to 25 custom kits one of which was a twin Precision Billet wheel 67mm twin intercooled kit in a 2002 Mark8 that retained ALL factory functions including the air ride which complicated it immensely. That kit ran around $8k I believe and that was using all stainless, custom headers,name brand stuff thruout , Bell intercooler cores, custom built intercoolers, and hours and hours of fab time. Check out Performance Fab on Facebook , He done a budget non intercooled manifold setup for a truck few weeks ago that was around $1600 and that included the $800 Turbonetics Turbo, and Precision WG and Tial BOV, no eBay stuff
I agree there are some optional items not needed especially for low boost. I missed that in your original write-up (3-4psi). One of the things that I like about boost is the kick in the seat feel as you accelerate. Obviously that changes based on boost level. Back of the hand calculation says you get twice the effective displacement of an engine for every 14.7 psi of boost. Say a Buick 350 has 250 HP stock and you spend $1500 to get a kit to put 3 psi to it. Effective displacement is 3/14.7= .2 or 20%. HP increase of ~50 HP. It all depends on what your goal is. 50 HP can be had for cheaper ~$800 (TA cam, larger exhaust, headers), but then you don't have the cool factor of the turbo if that is your goal. The one thing I have noticed, once you do start going turbos it is more lets's turn this up! You'll need to make the optional upgrades to go higher than 4 psi to support more flow and power. Overall it is cheaper to do it right the first time then replace and upgrade later on. That is the way I think about it, but to each their own. Hugger, looking forward to your budget turbo build too. I am always interested to see how others put things together. It is a nice shared cost for research and development. And like you said may help bring others to low boost single turbos systems that never thought they could have it. It is also good to see how these cars hold up long term. The turbos for me was something I wanted to do to see if I could make it work. I don't race my car and have no plans to ever race it. I like tooling around the back roads and trips to the grocery store on my 8 psi. I've put about 2k miles on it the past 4 years with zero issues. I am getting the itch to go more boost or change somethings up. I can't leave well enough alone. LIke Sean said though, more power finds the next weakest link!
