getting ready to fire the newly rebuilt nailhead with ARP head studs,main studs, and rod bolts.Ross pistons and a bunch more goodies in it. I wanted to know what oil you guys are using for breakin? and after. cam additive?I didnt replace the cam because it was the same one i had in it from the prev rebuild. it has 2 hours on it. New bearings, pistons, rings. how much more oil do you guys add for the turbo? thanks guys!! Paul 1966 skylark gs c5/c6 Corvette brakes Ridetech Airride and the best part a Buick 401 Nailhead with a Garrett t67 Turbo!!
See post #4 for Jim's recommendation for Buicks but do read the whole thread. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?222499-New-Oil-tech&p=1797742#post1797742 http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/learn/zincvsdetergent.html We are getting ready to fire up a new blown alky engine and will be using Joe Gibbs break-in oil and will switch to their racing oil after break-in. Paul
i will be breaking in the motor with joe gibbs break in oil and also be breaking it in with the turbo and boost applied to it. i will break it in with low boost,i will run it through the roads giving to medium loads for the first 15-20 mins than let it cool back to down outside temp. i will do this 4-5 times and i continue to bring the load up. i will run it on the highway to high gear and make a hard pull by the last run. once that is done i will put another 50 miles on it through the backroads and then dump the oil. Put fresh stuff and drive it like i stole it!! I know some people like to break them in easy but i like those rings to seat right away and from the engines i have done this to i have never had one burn oil. But on the other hand this is my first turbo engine i built ..soooo how do you guys break them in ?? Paul
Run it 30 minutes or more with low boost as you are planning but be sure to re-torque the heads after the FIRST cool down before you run it again. At the first oil change, dismantle the oil filter and inspect the element for particles. Also inspect the turbo for shaft play, compressor blade contact with housing and how well it spins. Then have fun!!! Paul
Thank you for you tip and i will make sure i will retorque. it is a new garret but i did have some oil pooling in the old turbo setup when it was idling and had a oil recovery pump relay fail , so i hope i didnt damage the new turbo. only happened once so i dont think so. the only reason i was going to break it in with the turbo because i wanted higher than normal cylinder pressure to help those rings bed into the cylinder walls. Another questions, where do you guys dump your oil return into. i used to dump back into the valley but now i have a different setup so i was looking into the where the mechnical fuel pump used to bolt into.it is below the turbo but thier is a angle and not a straight shot like if i was to go into the oil pan. I wanted to go into the front of the oil pan but it is real shallow. does anyone have any pictures of thier oil drain setup? Thanks Paul Thanks Paul
This is Jay Davenport's setup, yes the drain lines are a little overkill but seems to work well. Looks like it drains to the sides of the oil pan. I think he said he was using bulkhead connectors:
Just like Jay's in the above post, We always dumped the return oil to the pan with extra big lines. Paul
how big of a line? what size bung should i weld in the oil pan. i saw some guys were tapping thier ls oil pans with a 1/8 npt and to me that seems like too small. they would tap and use a 1/8npt to 5/8npt adaptor but to me the 1/8npt is a huge restriction. i thought i should run atleast -10an maybe even a -12an line with a 5/8 npt bung. any suggestions Thanks Paul
This is one of those times where there is no such thing as too big. A 12an line would be great. Here is a view from one of our older turbo cars.
Thank you for the picture, i am going to run as big as i can and should have no issue fitting a -12an. Great looking tt setup but is that a egt sensor in the header or a a/f sensor?
That is an exhaust gas pressure sensor. There is one for each turbo so we can keep them operating the same by adjusting the wastegates. Also we can see the relationship between intake manifold pressure and exhaust pressure. It helps us see how efficient the total system is running. It's great when the exhaust pressure is less than the boost pressure. Paul
thats sweet.. never heard of that. Love racing but never turned wrenches on a real RACE car. took your advice today and welded a 3/4 npt bung for a 3/4 to -12an fitting. once i getting the motor back in the car i will figure out the rest of the configuration. keep the advice coming.. Paul
