Anybody try the ebay tubular control arms? I see them for around 300 bucks for the complete set. I am considering them as an early start to improve handling. I will be upgrading my disc drum to 4 wheel disc and will work on springs shocks to maybe coil overs. The car is frame off restored. Here is a link to about what I'm looking at. http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-72-GM-A-Body-Heavy-Duty-Control-Arm-Upper-Lower-Tubular-A-Arms-Chevelle-GTO-/360564504347?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1965%7CModel%3AChevelle&hash=item53f351b71b&vxp=mtr ---------- Post added at 08:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:12 PM ---------- Actually more like these from CPP. The first link has some questionable reviews. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-65-66-67-72-CHEVY-CHEVELLE-FRONT-TUBULAR-CONTROL-ARMS-/281038694117?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item416f3626e5
Those look pretty much exactly like what I put on my car a few years ago. They have performed quite well and I like them for the price. Here's a cheaper set that looks to use the exact same pictures. http://www.ebay.com/itm/heavy-duty-...ts=Model:Chevelle&hash=item5198e07aee&vxp=mtr I'd ask the seller if they still have the aluminum insert in the upper arm shaft. The description indicates they do but mine do not and the picture doesn't show them. I purposely avoided that when I was looking for them because of bad reviews. As for the 4 wheel disc brakes, what wheels will you run? Buick chrome wheels sometimes have a hard time with shallow rear rotors and calipers. I know I did. Any other 15" wheel or larger should be OK. I used a Right Stuff rear disc and master cylinder kit on mine. I still need to plumb in an adjustable proportioning valve but it stops really hard compared to what it used to do with rear drums. The extra caster really helped glue my car to the road. I also took out the upper control arms and bolted in a set of ProForged tall uppers to improve the geometry. If you go this route, I have one solid suggestion: Put a 90 degree grease fitting in the lower arms frame joints. They are tough to get to once assembled with the straight ones.
I just bought the same china made style from an ebay seller and it was $230 with free shipping. But the 90degree grease fittings are a must on the lower arms..... im still putting everything back together and im going to try and use the factory drums for the front but we shall see how that disaster turns out. They are also very heavy compared to other tubular arms but probably because of the lower grade steel needing to be thicker.
None so far. The alignment shop didn't have any negative comments and with my +5 caster and -1 camber it didn't result in too many shims. Maybe 1/2" think at the most. As for weight, the uppers are lighter than stock and the lowers were just a slight bit heavier. All in, I think it was a wash unless you count lower center of gravity an improvement. Mine actually came in a box that had CPP on the outside but that wasn't the seller. Not sure if they were copies or over stock or blemished but they were well made. Other than needing the 90 degree lower frame grease fitting, they've worked well for 3 years now. I've hit some corners pretty hard with them and they really keep the car planted much better than the bass-ackwards factory geometry. Oh, I seem to remember I had to massage the lower shock mount hole just a bit to get the shocks I used in. It was barely more than chip the powder coat off. The current batch look like they have a bigger hole now.
Not by name but they are pretty low friction. I moved them around with no issues. They did not bind but were pretty solid.
