TSP Level 2A-R (Larry's motor) Complete and Dyno tested.

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by LARRY70GS, Jul 25, 2012.

  1. nickwhite

    nickwhite Platinum Level Contributor

    Very Nice Larry!! Smooth runner not much lope. You can hear the valve trane is happy.
    She will make instant power. Now you have to get the suspension to hook up the tires.
    No six cylinder will be able to keep up. :TU:
     
  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    OK, I slowed the idle speed down to about 850-900 in Park. It will idle in gear at about 750-800. I used my Snap-On Timing light for my Tachometer. My stock Tach is pretty inaccurate, more so in the middle of the range. I tried to get a picture of the gauges, but there was a lot of glare. (nice day today)

    [​IMG]
     
  3. pmuller9

    pmuller9 Well-Known Member

    Larry, sounds really great, just enough lope to let you know something potent is under the hood.
    How soon before you can do some WOT testing?

    Paul
     
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I still have to adjust the throttle cable and get the fuel system installed. I think I will just wait until Cecil County. I'll put some 110 in it and have fun on Friday September 21st Test n Tune
     
  5. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Excellent Larry! I hope to be there Sat. and watch you tear up the track! What times would make you happy? :Brow:

    - Bill
     
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I'll only be running on Friday, but the car will be there Saturday. Mid 11's at 118 MPH, but if everything is right, it will probably go faster than that.
     
  7. Taulbee2277

    Taulbee2277 Silver Level contributor

    Sounds great Larry :beers2:
     
  8. jay bird

    jay bird Well-Known Member

     
  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

     
  10. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    OK, Fuel system is in. Got it up to John's shop with nearly no gas in the tank. Dropped the tank, installed the RobbMc sender and pickup (with extension). Ran the Push Lok hose through the frame like the stock fuel line. Very secure and clean install. The biggest problem was getting those fittings on. We ended up using a 90* at the pump, and the 45* at the tank. Just worked out better that way.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. tufbuick

    tufbuick RIP

    Take me for a ride.........PA...LEEZ !
     
  12. pmuller9

    pmuller9 Well-Known Member

  13. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Went to Cecil County Raceway after rushing to get the engine installed and running in the car. Ran a best of 11.67@ 115.49 MPH. Had to fight for traction, and was disappointed with the trap speed.

    http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...econd-Club-Larry-aka-THE-WIZARD-!!&highlight=

    I'm guessing you want an update Paul?:grin: It's been getting pretty cold here, and I've been working on the car every now and again. I installed a full sweep Autometer Fuel pressure gauge inside the car. I have verified that my fuel pressure is low. When I start the engine, it reads 5 1/2-6 psi. If I let the engine idle and warm up, it steadily drops off to 2 or 3 psi. I initially thought that maybe the tank wasn't venting, but removing the fuel cap makes no difference. My next step is to remove the fuel pump and take it apart. According to JW, these pumps are sensitive to any grit or particulates in the fuel. There are several valves in the pump bottom that can affect the out put pressure. I have instructions on how to take it apart, and it seems very simple. When I do take it apart, I will install a pre filter under the drivers side door. The hose is very accessible there, and all I need to do is cut it, install 2 push lok fittings, and install the filter. If the problem is dirt, this should prevent a future occurrence.

    I would also like to lock out the distributor and run a constant advance. I have a 20* start retard in the MSD Digital 6 Box. That should make hot starting easy.

    I have also bought replacement fuel bowls with the nice big sight glasses, a notched float, and jet extensions for the rear bowl. I have returned the jetting to AED stock. I also intend to buy and use a wide band O2 sensor and go from there.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. pmuller9

    pmuller9 Well-Known Member

    Larry

    Thanks for the update. Looks like you are covering all bases as far as fuel delivery and tuning.
    I didn't want both the threads concerning your engine build getting buried.
    Too much great information and they needed to come back to the top for any one that is new or missed them the first time.

    Thanks again for sharing your project

    Go kick some butt next year!

    Paul
     
  15. pmuller9

    pmuller9 Well-Known Member

    Just trying to keep these 3 post together.
    Great reference material
     
  16. NickEv

    NickEv Well-Known Member

    Deer Park,Babylon here
    Cruising 231/Channels parking lot where all the heavy hitters parked,like the Dodge boys duster,Tommys ("wholl stop the reign") corvette,Timmy Tullos Camaro
    All 10sec or faster streetvcars in the mid 80s
    Man i miss those days

    Oh im old now lol
    Nick
     
  17. kenny t

    kenny t Gold Level Contributor

    Any updates ? Get the fuel system squared away ?
     
  18. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Yes, turns out the pump was put together wrong from the factory. They reversed a gasket effectively blocking the intake valves of the pump. JW wasn't sure how it was actually pumping any fuel at all. But I ran 11's with it like that. JW found the problem when I sent the pump back to him when it failed completely. It now puts out a consistent 8-9 psi, so we will se what it doesat Cecil this year as long as the weather holds out.
     
  19. Jim Rodgers

    Jim Rodgers Well-Known Member

    Good luck. My guess is it picks up a bunch. Put new plugs in it at the track. Put some anti- seize on them if you are worried about cross threading on a hot engine, or let it cool then change them.

    Looking forward to hearing some good numbers.
     
  20. buicksstage1

    buicksstage1 Well-Known Member

    Jim, anti seize is a big no no on plugs, it will change the heat range of the plug and can cause the plug to be over tightened. This is why I won't use a non-coated plug ie: AC Delco or any other plug that the threaded part is black.

    NGK recommends:
    "Do not use anti-seize. Anti-seize reduces electrical and thermal conductivity between the spark plug and head; and increases the installed torque which can damage head threads. The spark plug holes must always be cleaned prior to installation, or you may be torquing against dirt or debris and the spark plug may actually end up under-torqued (dry threads), even though your torque wrench says otherwise.

    All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with special shell plating on the metal body. The use of anti-seize on spark plugs is only recommended on those brands that do not offer a special metal shell plating. Install spark plugs with a compression gasket finger tight until seated and then turn 1/2 to 2/3 turns. Install spark plugs without a compression gasket (taper) finger tight until seated and then turn 1/16 turns."

    Champion recommends:
    "Champion recommends that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory. Next, install the spark plugs finger tight and, if using a taper seat spark plug, use a ratchet to rotate 1/16 of a turn. If using a gasket seat type spark plug, after installing finger tight, turn 1/4 to 5/8 of a turn. If this procedure is followed, spark plugs will not back out nor will they seize in the cylinder head."

    Autolite recommends:
    "We do not recommend anti-seize. Install 14mm plugs in aluminum cylinder head at 20-30 Nm (15 - 22 foot pounds) with CLEAN and DRY threads. We do not recommend the use of any anti-seize products for installing spark plugs. Anti-seize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If anti-seize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition.

    Anti-seize on the threads of your spark plugs will slow down the rate of heat transfer from the plug to the head. The worst place to use it is on the tapered seat, which is where the most heat transfer occurs between the spark plug and the cylinder head. Even just a small amount of anti-seize is the equivalent of using a hotter heat range spark plug.

    Anti seize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing."

    Denso recommends:
    "Do not use anti-seize. Installation Key Points: (1) The threaded area of the cylinder head must be clean. (2) Using your fingers, screw the spark plug into the cylinder head, and tighten about 1/4-1/2 turn with a plug wrench. (Taper seat plug: about 1/16 turn). (3) Tightening too much may cause distortion of the plug housing, and in extreme cases could cause engine damage. Therefore, proper installation of the spark plug is important for life and performance of the spark plug. (4) The installation procedures shown above apply to new spark plugs without lubricating the threads.

    When using a torque wrench, install 14 mm spark plugs in an aluminum cylinder head at 20-30 Nm (14.8 - 22.1 foot pounds) with DRY threads."

    Bosch recommends:
    "Do not use anti-seize. Bosch small engine spark plugs are constructed with a nickel chromium ground electrode for consistent performance and prolonged service life; Nickel-plated rolled threads offer complete anti-seize and corrosion protection. Built to withstand extreme operating temperatures and give more power, Bosch Super Start is ideal for all small engine applications."
     

Share This Page