I Might confuse people so I numbered the questions but I numbered them 1. I found the leak and it seems to be some sort of sensor. oil sensor o No:. well I posted a pic, its near the oil filter which I recently replaced after changing the oil and cables. what is this? does it only need to be tighten? I will try to tighten it. Check Thanks 2.well another calamity is that I have a broken Water pump bolt! how am I supposed to get it out? The pump has calcium buildup all around! 3. Another thing I noticed was a missing bolt fro the oil pan! it doesn't leak around that area. Does one missing bolt affect the whole gasket? I might have to search for center sump oil pan o replace the banged up one I have. 4.is there a way to re-install the oil pan gasket without removing the engine? Well I might remove it to repaint it due to the poor preparing (builders)they did over all. The paint is cracking, I suspect they only used regular spray pain or valve cover paint. I found the Buick red color rated at over 1000 degrees so I would really like to redo the engine myself. I would like to see what parts were used, such as cam, pistons etc. Never really gave me a receipt. :shock: Now I will post a cheap (well 25cents were lost) trick they used to cover a hole on the intake, i really never noticed until recent. They were cheap enough to not buy a block off plate for whatever used to be there! instead they put a quarter!:shock::laugh:. 5. another question will an EGR valve not connected, cause a vac leak?, I'm planning on getting a block plate. 6. There was a coolant leak near the rear of the block, I can't see it. I believe it runs onto the frame. That's the only place I see it dripping off of. What type of leaks can be associated to the rear of the engine? I don't think it should be in the exhaust, it does sound like something drips in there after running. the oil leak I assume will be adressed first, I want all the mechanical stuff done first because there is more body work to be done later. Thanks Guys, once I get up to speed with a safe job, You will see the blog for my 68 rivi restoration blog. including photos from start to finish. atleast enjoy the fresh rebuild ones i posted, it was nice while it lasted looking that way, it's like when you see a girl that used to be hot but isn't anymore and your like "What happened to you?!" :idea2:
Wow, so many question is one topic will be confusing to sort out...you might want to edit your first post and break the questions up for separate posts. Regarding the oil leak near the electrical connection, yes...that's the sender (sensor) that turns on the oil light when pressure is low. The type of thread it uses is called National Pipe Thread (NPT) which is tapered, so it tends to seal up the more it is tightened. It may simply be loose, so see if it can be tightened a bit more...but don't get carried away. If that doesn't work, remove it and inspect the threads...it may need to be replaced. Devon
The intake looks like a 455 intake from a '72'74 era. The quarter is plugging the hole used for the airpump system. You should find a 430 intake. It won't have an EGR on it. Not sure about the (smog) airpump system , though, being in California. The hole where the quarter is at would have a curved pipe attached there. A rubber hose would run from the airpump to that metal pipe.
Good thing I saved the old 430 manifold!, its a bit rust. Ill post a picture. There should be no compatibility issues with the block right? I attempted to find the block serial but it seems to be missing!
The broken bolt on your water pump really isn't a broken bolt at all. It's an alignment pin. Leave it alone.
Regarding the oil leak, I guess I could have bought another sending unit but hey I thought I would give this a try. I had a similiar problem. I tightened the sending unit, but infact the sending unit (crimpted together) was leaking around the seem between the plastic and aluminum. I took a large deep socket that fit just past the plastic, and tapped the crimp a little tighter...so far so good. o No:
I will attempt that before I pull the engine,I determined that it was best to actually pull the engine to get a real look at the condition even though it has been rebuilt. I have just started saving to buy a new floor jack, and at least an engine stand. I should be able to rent an engine hoist fairly cheap. This will be my first pull but It was to happen sometime! any special bolts required to bolt a buick 455?
It's a 455, i couldn't find the serial # but it is 1970 Buick 455 from what i was told. Anywhere else I can find the serial?
Hey, that 25 cent fix is just epic. I hope we don't get into a stock / aftermarket debate like we did on the penny under the backseat. -- Steve
But the real debate will be whether that makes it a 455 or 475 depending on which block right (430 or 455 + 25=)? :idea2: :bla:
455+25= 480 now that alone should add more HP than Stickers, and neon lights! maybe even 3 wings.:TU:
Man, my math skill are sucking tonight. I'm too preoccupied with getting to go to days at work (got my move memo today) and the looming strike. ou:
As long as the quarter is from the same year as the engine, it should be considered stock. This is what they mean by "matching numbers," right?:Smarty:
