What is the first thing (and how) to check when trouble shooting a power window set up? My issue is that not all windows can be controlled by the drivers switch panel. And the passenger window gets stuck, sometimes after slamming the door, the window will begin to operate normally, then stick again. Thinking this might be a track or motor issue. 1967 4 door LeSabre. Thanks
First rule of diagnosing a problem- check your powers and your grounds Most common issue is broken wires in the rubber boot from the body to the door. Very common in the drivers door as that gets the most use. Check to make sure that the power and ground is getting to the window motor.
Jason has it covered Pete - no power, or poor ground, no windows working. Those wires in the door rubber sleeves, (...especially in the drivers door), get very brittle, and corrode with age - constant flexing from opening and closing the door + age, will cause them to break and the pw circuit is broken. In addition binding, or corroded rollers and pivot points in the track mechanism will also slow down, or impede operation of the glass, putting additional strain on the pw motors. A little silicone spray in the tracks improves the operation of the glass. Cycle the glass 2-3 times to work the silicone spray in. :TU:
Nice I'll check the power and grounds this weekend. Where do the grounds normally mount to? all I've ever seen was a plug coming from the door jamb. How can i bench test the motors to see if they are even performing properly? thanks ---------- Post added at 09:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:17 AM ---------- What is the best way to test doors other than the driver door? Hook a test light to the orange or red wire and then activate the driver door switch panel to see if the test lights up? Or is there constant power when the key is on Acc?
The pw motors are grounded to the door frame through the mounting bolts, via the hinges, via the chassis ground connections at the rear of the engine, or from the black wire from the neg. terminal to the chassis. Use a +12vdc battery to test the motors - you can do it with the motors in the door, without removing them, (...which is a PITA !!). Just run a ground to the mounting bolts, or the door frame, with a booster cable. Then run a heavy guage jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to iether of the pins on each pw motor, one is 'up', and the other is 'down'. Take care not to catch, or jamb fingers, or other appendages, in the pw window mechanism !! I used a meter with a 'continuity' buzzer to test all the switches and pw wiring. There should be constant +12vdc to all the switches with the key in the Acc. position, so a +12vdc test light should work too !! With the door panels off, its also an opportune time to lube all the pivots points with a silicone spray. and use some fresh lubriplate in the roller tracks, after the old stuff is cleaned out !! :TU:
Re-visiting this thread... All of the motors work independently on each door, but the rear do not operate when controlled from the driver door. So, im assuming there is a break in the wires somewhere. I'd like to have these all working eventually... Is it possible / easy to remove the entire harness and bench test / repair it, then re-install?
Im assuming the original poster took his volt ohm meter out and checked the switch when he was checking for power and ground.
Driver window motor has power, Switch works on door Passenger window motor has power, switch works on door and from driver switch panel (intermittently once the door is slammed a few times) Driver Rear window does not work with driver switch panel or rear window switch Passenger rear window does not work with driver switch panel, but does work on the passenger rear door does this make things a little clearer, or did I muddy up the water some more? :ball:
the easiest way to test this would be with another known good master (drivers) switch. If the known good switch acts the same then ... ... the problem is with the master power board that attaches to the back of power switch. There is a master 12v+ wire that runs to it - look at the other side where that whole mates to the pin from the switch and Im sure you will see discoloration from arcing and possibly what looks like the plate melting slightly around the hole. Look at the other holes as well and Im sure you will see the same on the ones that don't work at all. Once this melts a bit it can no longer hold the contacts tight to the male pin from the switch and the problem just worsens. Worse yet is that there are no replacement boards available ... or none that i've found yet. I soldered in a board from another PW wiring harness
A new repro switch is only about $40 if it is the same a a 70 type. A quick way to check things without the switch is to take the switch out and use a battery on the floor like from a tractor or car. Get two jumper wires with alligator clips. connect the negative to the door. One of the bare metal lower stops with the tab sticking out works good as a ground. Coonect the other to positive. Connect the other end of the postive to an awl with a wood or plastic handle. Stick the awl in the holes where the switch plugged in one at a time. One hole will be up and one down for each window. This will show if the wiring is good and eliminate the switch. I put windows up and down all the time like this when the car is apart. it eliminates having to make a connection at the pw motor. ---------- Post added at 08:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:57 PM ---------- Also disconnect the car battery to do this.
I'll have to take a look at this. I've replaced one of the other doors power board from a riviera that i spliced in. I'll have to check this. I have seen the melting you describe. ---------- Post added at 03:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:14 PM ---------- I'm going to try this. I suppose i could use a thin screwdriver with a plastic handle. ---------- Post added at 03:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:15 PM ---------- Not yet, the car is in storage and i need to go "check it out" before i can start working on it. Hopefully i'll get a break from the rain one of these weekends.
