Well, I almost had everything done then the 30 year old transmission lines let me down! The top line rubbed a hole next to the engine mount. What are my options? So far, the turbo 200-4R has a short section that runs from the lines to just about the starter and then they are compression fitted to the existing lines, which go to the front mounted cooler rather than the radiator. I had to mangle the old line to get it out so I'm guessing just dropping it in with the engine in place is not my first choice. I'm currently pulling the radiator and shroud to see if that gets me some slack to bend the straight line into something that will fit. There is one foot of rubber hose that goes from the original radiator area to the front for the cooler. I bought new line for that as well since I'm at it. I plan to keep it since it has always been my opinion that the factory trans cooler heated the engine and didn't bleed much off the trans either. Can I install a factory type line to the turbo 200-4R if I buy them from RightStuff/Inline Tube without having to do motor/header gymnastics? My other option is to just cobble it back together as best I can and get it out of the way of the engine, oil filter and steering linkage. Options? What have the rest of you done?
You can also buy some Aeroquip push lok hose and fittings and run your lines through the frame. Jim Weise used to sell kits already made up for the 70-72 GS's. You can just buy everything and put it together yourself. That is what I would do if my hard lines ever gave me a problem. -6 line should be fine.
OK, I'm not sure what to make of this stuff. Is it pretty rigid like say compressor air line? Can I run it all the way from the trans to the cooler without a problem? Got any pictures of it routed and lined up? I'm kind of liking this idea since I haven't done anything but drain the radiator so far. I don't currently have a torque convertor cover so I am contemplating a route, maybe up by the extra chevy ear on the bellhousing then down past the starter, under the motor mount and up to the cooler? I think I knew that and it was why the current lines are all jumbled up under the motor mount with the starter cable. I thought I was ahead of the game when I got those things up and away from the drag link. Apparently, I exposed the weak link yet again. I guess I'm glad this summer has been a rainy, messy kind of thing because I'd feel really bad about the old girl being up on jack stands again!
I had Bowling Green Rubber and Gasket make me new flexible lines twice (two different cars) so I didn't have to deal with the metal/rubber lines anymore.
This is what you need. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6-Ae...wItemQQhashZitem2c561210bfQQitemZ190422585535 This is the stuff a lot of racers are using to plumb their fuel systems. It's very tough and easy to run. It uses special barb fittings that just push on, and once they are on, they WILL NOT COME OFF. You just need to figure out what fittings you will need. Jegs and Sumitt sell the hose and fittings.
I'm guessing those guys know what they are doing. I never thought of them! I like dealing with local guys. :idea2: I've never been one to need it to look factory if it works better than factory. Also cool. I guess I can use zip ties to put it where I want? So it runs through the frame some how? How about once the ends are on it or does it get routed then the ends pressed on and it is now part of the car? I'm going to go crawl back under it and eyeball it one more time since I haven't even opened up the flare tool box yet! Shoot, I wonder if I can get some quick disconnects? I guess that's overkill isn't it?
I used TCI external transmission coolers on both cars because they had screw on fittings and I didn't want any barbed fittings (with hose clamps) crap on the car. I have never had a leak out of either car and one was done in 1995 and the other about 2001. Bowling Green Rubber and Gasket do good work and being local if you have a problem you can deal with them eyeball to eyeball.
Did you route yours through the frame as well? I kind of like that for getting them out of the way to avoid an header contact. It looks like the pic Larry70GS linked to has them going into the rear frame where the fuel line would go if it was a right hand fuel pump. I'm going to get one of my air hoses and see if I can thread it in through there, get a measurement and have some quoted. Looks like it could be interesting to route that baby with everything else already in place. I should probably also take them my fittings to get the right ends.
I always just make new lines from steel. I go to napa and buy a 15 foot roll of 5/16 steel line and custom bend them. Yeah, it is time consuming, but when I am done, I never have to think about it again. I know this OEM style engineering is not for everyone, but I love the finished product. You will need a bender, a cutter and a double flaring tool.
That happened to my 68, trans line rubbed through by an engine mount. As I recall, some PO mechanic had left off the tubing support bracket. My advice is make sure the lines are reasonably supported, without a chance of rubbing anywhere. The tubing support might have a rubber clamp, I tend to use layers of duct tape. Just pushing them into a boxed frame isn't a great idea; if they aren't supported they could rub some more. good luck, Bruce Roe
Here are some pics of my push lok tranny lines from JW and how they route out of the frame. I bypassed my rad cooler and use only the aftermarket cooler
I didn't go through the frame but you could if you want to. Come by the house (remember, the house you sold me) and you can see how mine are routed if you want. Yes, if you deal with Bowling Green Rubber and Gasket take your fittings so they can make up the lines with the correct ends.
I am using a bunch of summit braided stainless over rubber line, and their -6an fittings going to a B&M cooler It was sold as a kit on summitracing.com best thing I ever did, trans wise. hated the solid lines - Always in the way.
OK, I took the easy way out for now. I redid the hard lines from the new line just under the starter and replaced the 30 year old lines. I bent them both up to the top of the radiator since I have a cooler up front. I'll make a project of redoing the lines this winter in hydraulic hose when I have more time to kill. I have another question. It is all 5/16" hard line except for the short pieces of hose that go from the end of the hard line by the radiator cap to the cooler in front of the radiator. All total, it is about 2 feet of hose. The two hoses I had on the old stuff were 3/8" and looked like fuel hose. For 20+ years old hose it still held fluid. The ports on the cooler are larger than 5/16" even though I'm using 5/16" hard lines. I had some 5/16" fuel line but also bought a few feet of 5/16" transmission line to do it proper. The transmission hose will not go over the 3/8" cooler fittings. Will the fuel line hold up for cooler lines on a turbo 200-4R for a while? I'm guessing it is suboptimal but I think it worked for 20 years on the old stuff. I cut a piece of the old stuff up and it was only nylon reinforced, not metal, so I am fairly certain it was just fuel line. I started it up and it held pressure without ballooning on me. Update: Took it for a quick test run and the hoses do not appear to be in any distress. I can squeeze them while the engine is running and they do not feel stiff or like they are over pressured. I'll keep an eye on it until I have time and motivation (like being stranded on the side of the road) to change it.
