To juice, or not to juice!

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by Rivdude, Oct 13, 2004.

  1. Rivdude

    Rivdude Well-Known Member

    Hi guys!(and gals!)

    Okay, so I have a PRETTY '72 Riv with a freshly rebuilt 455 (.030" over, TA212 cam, 8.5:1 compression, Performer intake, and coated shorty headers, thanks TA Perf!). I'm not satisfied...I want MORE power! I know, you guys are gonna say "Well, is it tuned?" Yeah, I think it's tuned, the only way to be certain would be to spend the coin at the dyno shop. I could do that, but for a similar amount, I could get Edelbrock's Performer RPM nitrous kit. To borrow a little from the Mazda ads, "Zoom Zoom" in a can! Hmmm...okay, the rebuild was a stocker...stock cam, heads, bottom end, pistons are cast. The question I'm most concerned with is "Will the engine tolerate 100 horse hits?" After that question has been wrangled over, or while in the midst of it...let's discuss the use of Giggle Juice from a principle standpoint. (Go fast guys are all for it, 'cept some seem to think it's cheating...so let's hear it!)

    Nathan

    Or, should I spend the money and get the vinyl landau top redone?
     
  2. TXGS

    TXGS Paint by numbers 70 GS 455 4spd

  3. sixty four 445

    sixty four 445 Well-Known Member

    yes. your car should handle a 100 shot easily. shoot, my little 4 banger in the eclipse can tolerate 75-100. i got nitrous for just a little extra kick in the pants when i wanted it. its pretty fun...and gets people to drooling over your car. and the look on peoples faces when you purge is priceless.

    note: no im not some stupid ricer :3gears:
     
  4. Buick_350X

    Buick_350X Guest

    100hp shot is very safe for that monster motor. Call or email holley and they will tell you how to tune it right for your engine specs. They are really nice about that.
     
  5. Buick_350X

    Buick_350X Guest

    Of course I do not know everything about NOS so I will throw this out here.

    Can you use PURE NITROUS OXIDE???

    I am asking cause after reading this thread I hit Ebay and there is a 49cc pocket bike NOS kit that looks to just be a tire inflater with whip cream charges [whipits] for the NOS supply.

    [Most college folks know what a whipit is.]

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=11332&item=7107306262
     
  6. frtlnrbuick

    frtlnrbuick Midwest Mafia

    Gasoline required

    Nitrous oxide is an oxidizer, you still need to add a fuel. Whether it is added with the nitrous or the carb (or???) is set up rich, there has to be additional fuel for the N20 to combine with or the metals in the engine become fuel!!

    Happy motoring! :3gears:

    Jim

    PS Nytrous brand N20 has so little impurities that you will never know it is not "pure". But, to answer your question: Yes, you can use pure N2O. :Brow:
     
  7. Buick_350X

    Buick_350X Guest

    Oh yea, ya need to add fuel / run wet systems. Holley said I should use a dry system if I put it on my MPFI V6 but I wouldn't use it. Wet is always much safer.

    Though I thought car NOS has additives to make it better for race use and dangerous to breath, unlike pure.

    But that is neat to know. Thanks
     
  8. BirdDog

    BirdDog Well-Known Member

    I, personally, would not use any shot of Nitrous unless my engine was built to handle it....that means...all-forged bottom end. But that is me. I am a "better safe than sorry" kind of person.

    Even more important than a "Bulletproof" bottom end is an appropriate fuel system. If you introduce Nitrous, at any level, without also having an adaquate amount of fuel.....your engine will be "toast". No matter what internal components you have.

    Electronically Fuel Injected cars are typically quite safe to add a little Nitrous to because their computer senses the air:fuel ratio and automatically adds more fuel when it senses the extra oxygen that the Nitrous provides.

    Just my thoughts...I am no expert. :TU:
     
  9. bobc455

    bobc455 Well-Known Member

    First of all, oxygen sensors will not sense A/F ratio when on nitrous, unless you buy a special "wide-band" sensor which is WAY too expensive for the OEMs to use (except I think Honda used some).

    Secondly, a little more HP is fine, whether it be from a cam, heads, or nitrous. Rule of thumb for V8s is that you can add up to about 25%-33% more HP to a stock engine before you have to start getting serious. That is about 100HP. If you have a low compression, low HP engine, that will take more of a shot than an engine that is already maxxed out.

    If you are keeping your total HP to 450 or so, then I wouldn't worry about it. As long as your fuel system and ignition system are top-notch. Also, make sure your tranny, driveshaft, and rearend are in decent shape.

    BTW, racing nitrous uses some sulfur in the nitrous so that you don't inhale it. It will not affect performance- medical nitrous will give you the same performance.

    -Bob Cunningham
     
  10. Rivdude

    Rivdude Well-Known Member

    Okay, so juice is good. In measured doses. Gotit. Awright then, considering the car is already cammed a bit and breathing a little more easily, does that mean I should go with a smaller shot since it IS a "stock" rebuild? (I'm planning on a Star Wars Air Cleaner for now to top it all off, then later, a forced induction setup. "Got Boost?!" :p)

    Nathan

    BTW, thanks for ALL the input, you guys are monstrous awesome cool doodz!
     
  11. buickdav

    buickdav Kris' other half.

    Just to add to what the others have said.......

    This last weekend(thanks to a couple friends,lol) I put a 175 shot on a stock 75' 455''. Only thing I really did was adapt my 1000 race demon on top of it, and put a HV/HP oil pump on it. No compression period. I did end up backing the timing off a bunch and think we ended up at 27-28* total. The car was running very fat to say the least, as seen by the black smoke after the car, lol. Anyways.............

    Let me tell you about running !!!!!!!!! I think we had the car set up pretty safe, but this thing left as hard, and ran as hard(through the 1/8) as my 12.5 -1comp., window rattled, 462'' did. And this is with a box stock, via 1975, bottom end, heads and intake. I wouldn't prolly recommend doing this for ANY extended time, but it did work for me.

    Personally, now, I wouldn't worry about a 100 shot a bunch. BUT DO ALL your homework and talk to the guys that know. I talked to several, over several months about this before ever setting the system on. To say I wasn't a bit ''skiddish'' pushing the button the first time would be a lie. But now on the other hand................open the valve and show me the button, I'll do it. Talk to the guys here that know though first, Jim G, Rick C, Bob C, John C. They all run the stuff as do a few others. And all have seemed more than willing to help out with info. This last weekend was a eye opener for me. Ya gotta love 175 hp for the price of a bottle fill.

    Good luck and have fun. And I would help any I could if you would like. Not that I know a lot but will offer what I can.
     
  12. mechacode

    mechacode Well-Known Member

    100 Shot is fine for you as long as it's a wet shot. It's only 12.5 more hp per cylinder and you have a low compression.
     
  13. Buick_350X

    Buick_350X Guest

    I still agree 100 is safe for the V8.

    When I talked to Holley they said a 65 shot of dry was safe for my stock MPFI V6. But the only thing I did not like about the dry system was it used a return line block off. So when on the juice it blocked off the return line form the fuel regulator. Basically over loading the stock regulator to richen up the mix. Which seams really dumb as it can't be very accurate. But I guess with only the 65 shot they find it safe.
     
  14. Buick_350X

    Buick_350X Guest

    I wonder though. If you have a car with a mass air flow sensor. What if you sprayed the dry shot before it. Shouldn't the much colder charge trick the computer into making the car run richer?
     

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