Guys, if it works for you, it works! But if you dont believe the Ignition man, make those marks and check it out your self. Its not hard to do, and later you will be glad you got the marks anyway. On a 350, if you dont got the 10mark(I got one on both my 68and71!) Do like this 1,75/3=10* are you with me? at 1,75or 13/4 IS 30* from the TDC zero 0 mark Two years ago when working on my drive to work Volvo I actually throw one of them fancy dial back just bought it lights away. I dont remember what brand the light was, but I got the bill here somewhere. This car likes 20*initial, and they are factory marked more than 35* on the harmonic. What happened was that I got different readings depending on what method I used. I fingered the light was bad, the dealer told me it wasnt, but was not able to explain why; I got mad and walked away and also throw the light away. Yesterday reading this thread I realized one thing. There was nothing wrong with the light.TO DAY I SHOD HAVE KEPT IT! Lucky me.NOT.:spank: Another thing: I'm sure the vacuum/movement -* measurement given by the Ignition man, is more accurate than mine. I just restricted the movement, then at idle I read the ign.timing after that sucked the vacuum hose all I could, (I also had my vacuum gauge T connected just to make sure I got the "full stroke") while watching the increasing number off * it stopped at 8* more , so I was happy with that, and still are. Then it came to my mind, that maybe some one else want these numbers. From here things must haw gone wrong, I tried to measure the movement with the distributor still in the engine, the "standard sliding caliper" (sorry, don't know the right name I got one digital named electronic digital caliper) seemed to interfere with something all the time, from any direction. What i am saying here is simply this: Trust the "Ignition mans" numbers! There is too much Murphys Law involved in my measurement!:Smarty: Lars
Just wanted to let everyone who contributed know that I set my initial timing to around 10-12* (not sure since my timing tab only goes to 6 or maybe it's just dirty and I can't read it). I used to have real loud lifter ticking noise but that went away. The auto parts stores sold me everything they could put in my basket to cure ticking noise. I even brought up the fact that the car was not timed yet but they said that wouldn't matter. I actually went a little too far on the initil timing and got some knocking noise when I revved up the engine. I backed it off about 2* and all is good. I still here a pretty loud noise that almost sounds like something is scraping together. I'm not sure what that is yet but I only hear it when I am in gear and am accelerating, not when cruising. Thanks again everyone, MARK
noise Mark - check your parking brake cable - it could be rubbing on the drive shaft when you torque up the engine. That will cause a rubbing noise! :bglasses: - Bill
Thanks, I'll check that. The noise sounds like it's coming from the engine compartment though. It's hard to tell because I can't replicate it when I pop the hood and rev the engine. MARK
Lifter noise and ign.timing isnt supposed to have anything to do with each other!uzzled: Make them marks on the harmonic and stop guessing please! no 10* mark? =new mark, 1,75inches from the stock mark = 30degres. 1, 75/3 =10* One and tree quarter inch divided by tree equals 10 degrees Lock at the black marks in the pick. above and you know in what direction you will make the marks. When the first new mark lines up with the 0* (zero) you actually got 10* when at 2 mark you got 12*. THIRD NEW MARK (1.75)AT 6 = 36* I dont speak for the Ignition Man, but this are the marks he and me are trying to explain how to make, and want you to use! PLEASE! Before you go banging you head against the wall, check that the mechanical advance limiting bushing is still in place. Pinging at higher rpm: s can sound a little different, but will most likely appear if you got 14 ore more initial, and no mec. adv. limit bushing! If you set the ign.timing 36* With all mec. advance in, this will not happen. :Smarty: You only end up with to low initial degree numbers (losing low end power for sure) If the sound you hear isnt the ping thing, I got one unpleasant question to ask you. Is that engines performance good? Hope I didnt get to many words backwards.:TU: Lars
I'll make the marks. Let me paraphrase now: The total length of one and three quarter inches from the original mark is 30 degrees correct? If I take one and three quarter inches and devide it equally into 3 parts, each part will be 10 degrees correct? 10 then 20 then 30. I understand how to get 12 & 34 and so on. The timing was retarded to about negative 6 degrees before I got my timing light. Setting it at zero helped. But when I advanced it to 10, I peeled out for the first time! Why would the clicking go away when the timing is advanced? When I was under the hood advancing the timing, the clicking just stopped. I'll check for the bushing too. Also, the noise doesn't happen at higher RPMs or lower RPMs. Only when I get on the gas. I can be cruising along at 85mph and not here the noise, but if I step on the gas, I hear it.
With more advanced timing you also got a litle higher idle!? The lifter noise may go away for that reason: Higher (and smother) idle rpm = higher oil flow and oil pressure= no noise!? I'm just guessing here Lars
Disconnect the vacuum advance (and plug the hose at the carb. side), make a test run, just to check what hapens!? Was the timing set retarde by the owner before you? Lars
I did an engine swap from my 3.8 V6 to the 350-2 and dumped the points distributor for an HEI dist. When I dropped the distributor in, I got it as close to TDC as I could get. It ended up being about 6* retarded. I think I'm going to check my headers for leaks as well as remove the vac advance. Thanks, MARK
That could make some interesting noises when things twist from the torque! The removal of the vac. line is just a test. If it isnt the headers and the sound gets better or worse, at lest we know that! Good luck:TU: Lars
Hey There, New guy here...... I have a 68 Wagoneer with a transplanted '71' 350 w/ 2bbl carb. I'm not sure which vehicle this motor came from. I too have been plagued by this timing issue. Where and how can I find out the exact tuning specifications? All the manuals that I've researched show the timing set anywhere between 0* and 10* and it still has a low end stumble (Stock distributor). When I advance this beyond to roughly 18* it gets better. Is it safe to push this timing further? Thanks, Pete
As long as it doesn't ping I suppose you're safe with advanced timing like thato No: Remember to tune your idle mixture screws on the carb when you advance it that far. If I remember, FACTORY timing specs are supposed to be 4* BTC....but we all know that is not enough. I set mine at 12* and it seems to do the trick. Set idle speed at 700RPM in park. Make sure you disconnect the vac advance and plug the line before you adjust the timing. If you don't disconnect it, your timing will be way too far retarded and you'll get the stumble unless you advance it to at least 18*. Is this why you have to advance it so far?
