i have done everything i can think of.i can get it to move just enough to tell it is,but it might just be flexing.ive beat it with a punch,beat on a impact socket,blapped it every hour with my 3/8 impact :rant: im afraid to use the 1/2 inch or breaker bar for obvious reasons.next step is cutting off the head and heating it once the cover is off since its flexing,i dont think its stuck in the aluminum,but i cant believe its seized in the block?? any bright ideas?its the bottom one,goes thru water pump, in the picture.
I don't think there are many other options. You might as well hit it with the big guns and see what happens. It will likely break in the block and you will need to drill it and use an easy out or weld a nut or small bar to it and back it out. I no longer worry too much about breaking bolts, it seems par for the course with 40yr old engines and cars. Eventually you will become the Jedi master of broken bolt removal as I have become (I use the force). It sucks but it all to often the only way when the bolts are stuck and you can't get to the threads to get penetrating oil on them. The only other Jedi trick I have used with slightly positive results is to drill down into the threaded portion of the bolt hole with a small bit >1/8" and try spraying oil down the hole. I don't know how well you will be able to drill into the block though at an angle. This is about my very last resort for really really stuck bolts. Good luck, keep us posted.
Go for it! Trick: keep some sharp left-hand drill bits around. After removing the head, applying penetrating oil, a few punch taps and heating from the drilling the stub will often back right out. At the least there will be a nice pilot hole for the next size bit.
here are some trix ~~ Alot of PB blaster & heat over a few days , get it cherry red but do it real slow take a minuet or two to bring it up red.then let it cool off & spray with PB again & again& again ~~Get it red & then Splash Ice water on the area that is seized ~~ heat around the block where its hanging up & let it cool again but dont get it too hot. ~~Winter green oil from your local pharmacy works better than PB blaster!! If all else fails then bust it off & remove with a good pair of Vise grips. Good Luck SR66 :TU:
thanks,but if you notice,i cant get to the threads to pb it.i go thru cases of the stuff & think i actually saw one can in plain view of the bolt,actually shed a tear,desperate for action :ball: cant heat it without melting timing cover.im worried its gonna break at the threads...in the block.if it wont give by tomorrow,its gonna get its head cut off,and not gently :af: guess nobody has any ideas i havent...thanks
I would cut the head and then work with the heat and cooling cycles that have been mentioned. I had this problem with the exhaust manifold bolts. I pulled the motor, cut the heads and then worked the shanks with vice grips - some still broke off. I had soaked these bolts for over a year with WD-40, PB Blaster, and automatic trans fluid. I could not see that any of it really helped or could get to the threads. I still broke off a bunch. I welded on nuts to the ones that broke off and then immediately squirted cold water on the nut. After a couple of cycles of this many backed right out. (Once it starts to turn, then hit it with the penetrating oil.) According to my brother who has a lot of practical experience doing this, the cold water tempers the welded nut/bolt but probably more importantly, causes an immediate contraction of the bolt breaking it from the threads in the block. The heating (expansion) and cooling (contraction) is what really breaks the corroded threads of many years. If possible, heat the surrounding area and cool the inside area.
Yea I did notice the wonderful place they put these bolts steel & aluminum don't mix well the heating & cooling like previously stated expand & contract the steel . Un less its completely rust welded to the block they are still 2 separate pieces of metal the E & C with heat & cooling busts the corrosion. You didn't even consider the Winter green oil which has a better penetrating than PB Blaster. :TU: This is how I would approach this small but intense heat directed @ the bolt getting the heat to conduct all the way to the block then cool it with PB or WG oils to do the Expand & contract back & forth thing. tapping or rapping on it with a GOOD Dead blow ball peen will increase the odds of removal too. By any chance you do get it out dont re use that bolt it will be compromised . Remember its hard to work on cars with words. I have successfully removed these stupid bolts Ford, Pontiac, Buick, Cadillac . I wish I could just show you but I figure your a bit away I really didn't look to see where you are. Well good luck . SR66 :TU:
Timing Cover Bolt You're correct in that the bolt is probably not seized in the block but in the aluminum. This is a common problem with steel bolts in aluminum where, no doubt, coolant has seeped over time causing dissimilar metal, corrosion bonding. The flexing you're experiencing is that portion of the bolt shank in the aluminum that is not seized. excessive toruque will shear the bolt. My experience has been that if you cut off the bolt head the balance of the shank will remain seized in the timing cover, and you will continue to be unable to remove the timing cover/water pump. I have had some success drilling a small hole or two in the aluminum perpendicular and midway to the bolt until the drill bit hits the bolt. Next spray WD40/CRC into the hole repeatedly while tapping on a socket at the head. After a few spray/tapping applications, try ever increasing counter clockwise torque. If it works, you can fill the holes with epoxy. Ultimately, if none of this works, it's new timing cover time. Mike
I got one of these bolts out of a ford once by heating the timing cover where the bolt goes through with a torch. You have to be very careful though. I got the aluminum too hot and it deformed a little. The damage was minor though and that cover is still on the road. A heat gun is a lot safer.
jamie does the chicken dance screaming im the man! no one watches! ok what i did was take a soup can(empty) ou: cut a hole the size of the bolthead in the bottom for an heat deflector so i didnt melt my cover.heated it for 7-8 min :sleep:remember its a 5-6 inch bolt. finally,i saw smoke from the inside of the block(only time i would be happy about that)heated a couple more min & hit it w/ the impact.it came out slow as can be.i still cant pull it out of the cover,so its that steel/aluminum bonding thing.thanks for all the ideas,ive never had one this bad & i work on marine starters that people bring in literally flaking rust all over p game over,i win :laugh:
Thats a great Idea! :TU: I would have never thought to use a heat shield on the aluminum! Upon reassembly I always ALWAYS use way too much never or anti seize & cram it full! It's a silvery mess but it sure helps the next guy {which is usually me} Like if I piss on the toilet seat @ work I'm the next guy to have to use it LOL ou: I'm Glad you got it out now on to the Nat's threads :Comp: PS how about a pix of this heat sheild SR66 :TU: :TU:
Try working it back and forth in the timing cover. Tighten, loosen, tighten, etc. You have to be patient, but if it will move just a little bit, working it both ways will eventually get it out.
jamie screams new cuss words,sounds like don vito.no one understands a word! the good news: i got it out of the cover :TU: truzi no way in hell it was gonna wiggle out.i had to take a punch & tap it out,but it came. the bad news:when it did finally pop out,the cover fell off my bench & landed squarely on the hose connection.now a 2 piece :ball: it did break fairly flush,sooo i guess im going to thread it & go hunt down a fitting for it today ou: sr66,it was a can with a hole,i tossed it.btw dont use the plastic/vinyl lined cans,& no i didnt "accedently"use one.
