Tie down points for a '72 Skylark on a trailer

I have a LOT of trailering experience with my various Jeeps and similar items. I have not run across anything wonderful to strap my '72 Skylark to my trailer. I'm currently using Vulcan Tie Downs that go around the tire. I thought they'd be great for my Buick but I'm kind of "meh" on them. I'd like to go back to strapping down at the axles like I do my Jeeps. (that'll create some towing controversy as there will be a number of folks tell me to strap to the frame and other folks that agree with me)


The Vulcan tire straps work but aren't my favorite at all. The recommended way to tie down from Vulcan is more like the below.


Frankly, I'm not comfortable with the back and forth vehicle movement on the trailer strapped like this. I towed like this for about 10ish miles stopping 3-4 times (basically every exit) and then went back to the method with the Lincoln above. The above picture with the Lincoln tow rig is significantly more secure in my opinion/experience. I love the concept of the tire being the tie down point on the Skylark but without remodeling my trailer (could happen) with E-Track or similar I'm looking back to my Jeep hauling experience and tying down to the axles.

Rear axle is pretty easy. Front "axle" is not a beam axle like a Jeep. I'm not super comfortable wrapping chain around my A-arm and cinching that down tight. (wondering what it does to vehicle alignment).

Question/debate #1: Are the A-Arms wise to tie down to?

Question/debate #2: Wise to weld to an A-Arm or not (a tie down bracket) or am I better off getting some tubular A-Arms.

Question/debate #3: Suck it up and tie down the front with a chain bridle using mini-J hooks and go on your merry way.

(both of the above vehicles have working trailer brakes. Both vehicles are within their load limit (barely on the Gladiator). Electrical connections are working on the vehicles and trailer. Towing from 4300' and over mountain passes ranging up to 8500' or so {Utah and surrounding areas})

Thoughts? {this will be fun }

One of my former towing setups just for fun. Chained at the axles and I'm about as happy as I can be.

 

I go to frame...never a-arms. BUT then my trailered car bounces but I think that is better than putting tension on a-arms in a un-natural direction.

 

On my open trailer,I use the holes in the frame on the front and pull them straight.On the rear,I cross my straps.I cross them the same in my enclosed trailer for the rear,but also cross the fronts as well when possible. I have aftermarket tubular upper and lower arms in the front and no sway bar to use.

 

On all my cars and both my open and enclosed trailers, among some other 40’ trailers I tie down using the frame front and rear. It matters in a lot of ways. First, it stops the movement of the suspension on what cars you’re towing , not wearing out components, super important on a a drag car’s suspension. And second, with the car now not moving all over, it stops the movements of the trailer like sway and such. Also super important to get enough tongue weight. More the better so long it doesn’t squat the truck too much so that it creates a misalignment in the front.
That’s where heavier rear springs really help. You can put more tongue weight on without effecting the trucks stance.
I tow going 80mph with one hand holding a cup of coffee and the other on the wheel. Very relaxing

 

I've gone both ways but iff possible I'll strap the A Arms and rear axle. It helps with the ride and wont break the straps from the car bouncing against it. On the Skyhawk in the enclosed trailer I have E track in the floor and use wheel nets on the front and hooks to the wheelie bar connections at the rear axle. On the open I'll pass straps around the A arms and tie off to the D rings and in the rear (Riviera) hook my ratchet straps to the lower shock mounts

 

Been over (not recommended!) 95+100 mph passing a jerk off that was dangerously playing with me. With this rig loaded without any control problems. Notice hardly any squat. But with the car way up front. I mark my trailer floor where the front tire would center once you find that sweet spot.

 

I put a hook on either side of the crossmember where the A arms attach,(the saddle) and cross them, the hook goes right there perfectly. The rear I cross them and hook the lower control arm.

1 tip I find that helps is I measure the front of the trailer bottom to the ground and the rear of the bottom to the ground when it’s empty, it’s usually about 15” and 12”, so when it’s loaded I try and get both measurements to match so I know it’s level and balanced and will tow nicely,

 

I have done it every way mentioned here, and settled on this:

Look at the frame on your car.. in front of the rear wheels, and just behind the front, you will see big open holes in the bottom of it. Use these holes, with HD straps, crossed.

This is the best way to tie it down in my opinion.. Easy to hook up and unhook... the strap lengths, when tied to correctly placed anchors, are correct for an excellent strap angle, for front to rear moment elimination, but it's not at such an angle that your loading down the suspension.. Car will still move up and down some, so you don't stretch the straps all out either. It's a nice compromise between the suspension flopping wheel straps or the frame J hooks with a nearly vertical strap. The length is the key here.

J hooks in the original tie down holes are nice, and ya, I know some of you have used them for years, but keep in mind that setup was designed to tie the car down from the factory to the dealership.. Once... and maybe to hook it to the old fashion tow trucks with the big rubber slings a time or two in it's life...I worry about the small contact area a J hook uses on the frame. I have seen those holes deformed by guys using them to tow long distances/from the old style tow trucks.

JW

 

Chain to the frame and axle at an extreme angle. That is what the pros do.
This is a solid connection and still allows some suspension movement without causing issues.

Slow down.

 

AGREE with Jim . That is the way I tie my cars down . The big holes AND crossed .