OK, after a few weeks of FINALLY finding some time (and a few parts) to finish my 455 install, I gave it a go this afternoon. All went well until I started filling the transmission up with fluid. It appears that the electrical kick down switch is cracked and leaking. I don't remember anything getting bumped during the install, but maybe it is the old switch and got bumped prior. Anyway, how do I remove this switch? NAPA has a new one for me on order, so I'm hoping it's not a big deal to swap them out.
The connector is retained by some tabs that are easily depressed from the inside once the pan is off. Drop the pan and you'll see what has to be done. Devon
Thanks, Devon. I should have listened to myself when I was thinking about getting a pan with a drain plug. But, instead, I wanted to keep the factory pan with the cool "Hydramatic Division of GM" embossed on it. WHY DO I DO THESE THINGS? ou: lol.
I just braze a 1/4" thick piece of steel in the back edge of the pan. Then drill & tap for a 1/8" pipe plug. It doesn't get all the fluid, but enough to avoid the mess removing the pan. Pictures on PHOTOBUCKET. Bruce Roe
That's not a bad idea either, Bruce. I brazed a nut on the inside of a 700R4 pan once. I'd just buy an aftermarket pan, but I don't like the look of chrome or finned aluminum.
B&M sells a trans pan plug kit for $6-7...works great....best tip...put the drain on the rear side(vertical side metal)...pointing towards the differential...that way, nothing thrown up from the road will snag on the drain plug.
Here's one that doesn't need brazing: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-4470/?rtype=10 Installing it on the rear side of the pan - that's a great idea!
I tried one of those drain kits long ago. The pot metal part broke as soon as I tried to tighten it. Now I see they are made of plastic. Brazing and tapping steel might be more work, but it'll NEVER crack or break and leave me stranded some day. Pictures attached. Bruce Roe
