Well, as some of you know, my cv joint went kaput on the way to Yardley's picnic on Saturday. Luckily, his brother was able to lend me the driveshaft from his car to get me home, but I still need to fix mine. So I took a closer look at it today in the daylight. I think the U-Joints themselves are still good (I'll replace them no matter what). Its the ball stud and seat that took a dump. Taking a look at my chassic manual and looking up parts online, I think I need the ball service kit and new flange yoke. Take a look at these pics and tell me what you think.
Looking in the Chassic Manual, it looks like the internal parts of the socket, ball seats, seal, spacer, etc. failed and are no longer present. The ball is pressed onto a stud on the weld yoke and is replaceable with kits from the parts store. The ball socket, though, on the flange yoke looks like it got beat up REAL bad. The yoke is also available from what I can tell, though and I think the weld yoke is still good, it just needs the ball service kit. So, I think my plan of action is to bring it to a truck repair shop and have them replace the above along with the u-joints. Does this sound right? Anyone know what this is going to cost me in labor?
Should I get greasable or non-greasable u-joints? As far as I know the car has the original non-greasable joints and they still seem fairly solid after 145,000 miles.
You may not have a choice...most aftermarket joints are greasable. That's what I would recommend, anyway.
Just take it to a truck shop Zach. It'll probably run you about $300. Parts will be about $100, maybe a tad more. Time is the thing here. They may have to machine the ball and stud - that's what the directions say on the Riv replacement CV joints. These big, old, odd cars aren't cheap. And unfortunately, when used as a daily driver present that fact all too often. Good luck budski. Let me know if I can help any other way! out
That's the plan Yards. I just like to research this stuff out a bit. I know have the correct Precision, Neapco, Spicer, and ACDelco part #'s for the flange yoke, H yoke, Weld Yoke, and ball stud repair kit. The flange yoke is listed as cheap as $29 from RockAuto. But like you said, I'm going to try and just bring it to a truck shop and have them rebuild it.
Zach, For what it's worth, I have a good driveshaft out of a '76 Electra that we could work out a deal on if you decide that rebuilding what you have is too costly. I have been thinking of putting it on Ebay but will hold off for awhile. I can send you pics if you are interested. Just thought I would offer you another option. :beer
Sure! Flange Yoke Precision 626 Neapco N3R-83-482 ACDelco 45U0820 GMB 2600626 (Advanced Auto) NUJ 2600626 (Napa) Weld Yoke Precision 636 Neapco N3R-28-869 Spicer 3R-28-869 ACDelco 45U0833 NUJ 2600636 (Napa) H Yoke Precision 646 Neapco N3R-26-057 Spicer 3R-26-057 ACDelco 45U0854 NUJ 2600646 (Napa) Ball Seat Repair Kit Precision 606 Neapco 2-9302 Spicer 211009X GMB 2601200 (Advanced Auto) NUJ 2601200 (Napa) Driveshaft CCT 12-118 (AutoZone) The ACDelco #'s are from RockAuto. I also had to look under Riviera in RockAuto in order to even get yoke listings.
Okay, I found a truck repair garage. When one of the mechanics came out to take a look, he knew exactly what I had and that I needed the ball seat kit, etc. All I have to do is supply the parts and they'll do the labor. Said it should take about an hour and its $75/hr rate. Already ordered a new flange yoke and ball seat kit from RockAuto. Going to AdvancedAuto to pick up new U-Joints. I'm going to go with the Neapco 3011 Brute Force units. They're not greasable, but use synthetic grease and look like nice pieces from the pictures. I figure the joints on the car are the originals, as far as I know, and they aren't greasable either and they still seem to be in good shape after 145K and being rattled like nuts.
Got the U-Joints Picked up the 3 u-joints today at Advanced. Neapco 3011 Brute Force. I've never had a u-joint in my hand before, but they seem pretty well made.
They're good joints. Won't last as long as the originals though. Hopefully the "Truck shop" repairs the shaft correctly and doesn't throw the balance off by too much. There's a bunch of driveline shops in NY. (Universal Joint Sales especially) If you just purchased a CV kit you'll need a yoke liner as well, unless you've bought a complete flange. It looks like your dust shield around the ball is missing. Also the ball pulls off on these year shafts. FYI...Tim
