Can't find my spec sheet at the moment. Can someone tell me what the power RPM range is for this cam in a SBB 350? Looks like I may need a new stall converter.
I would use a 3000 stall with that cam... TA says 1500 RPM+ but we know from previous peoples builds that the cam does not come on until about 2800 RPM... If the compression is under 9.5:1 it will be worse under 3000 and if over 10:1 it should put strong from 2500. Product ID: TA_284-88H-350 350H.475"-223'/.475"-230',110' Excellent performance cam. Gives 25 HP increase over stock cam. Slightly more torque than TA 212. Substantial improvement without hurting fuel economy. Stock valve train, converter and gears ok. Good idle. 9.0:1 or more CR Idle Quality: Smooth Idle - just like stock Good Idle - mild lump, but doesnt impair driveability Moderate Idle - nice performance sound Fair Idle - heavy lump Rough Idle - very lumpy race type idle VALVE LIFT STOCK 1.55 RATIO: IN: .460 EXH: .460 TA ROLLERS 1.60 RATIO: IN: .475 EXH: .475 DURATION AT .050 IN: 223 EXH: 230 ADVERTISED IN: 284 EXH: 288 LOBE CENTER: 110 POWER RANGE: 1500-5500
Attached pic of our spec sheet for the TA284 that we installed in a stock 350 with a fresh rebuild. I respect everyone's opinions and thoughts on this cam and it is a quality cam, but it will NOT work for a stock engine if you run stock convertor and stock gearing. Very lumpy idle, ran it with a stock quadrajet, another mistake... I basically overcammed the engine and did not want to spend more money $$$ for stall convertor and rear gears.. reluctantly pulled this came out and installed the Comp Cam 260 that came with the 2 bbl (prior owner install).. worked great.. got all drivability back, vacuum in brakes etc, no stalling, lower idle. hope this helps.
Overcammed. Yep and all stock parts(gear,convertor,engine, ) combination has to work together. Stock 8.5 compression engines are lucky if they actually have 8 to 1. Most are 7.8. Far from what most aftermarket cams need. The next question is why does everyone buy off the shelf cams. Why not pay a few bucks extra for custom ground to fit your needs.
I agree alec, probably should have done a custom grind cam... but we wanted to drive the car and get it back on the road and get the engine some run time. its just a daily driver type car and an occasional car show or two.... plus we had maxed out the budget and $$ was tight, so we installed the used comp cam 260 with new lifters that came with TA284, only had 300 miles on them.
Understandable. My thought is these cam designs are 25-30 years old. No decent new cam grind have came about. Several people have made great power on custom cams with low compression.
About 1600-1800 . with that cam you should get something that will stall 3000 minimum. And advertised stall is maximum stall rating as it would be on hi powered big block. It will stall much less on a lower powered small block. So assume a "up to 3500" stall might give you 28-3000 on your engine. The best way to get the right convertor is a custom built convertor.
Had the problems mentioned as well when I first installed the cam as documented on this forum. All I can is that it took some time, lots of questions and adjustments before everything worked fine. In my case just when I was reaping the benefits of my build I killed the tranny!
I wonder what he did wrong to make the car do that with the 284 cam I feel using a 2500 stall will be enough for the cam. I use a 3000 stall with a 230-245 @50 cam. But that doesn't say the 3000 stall is not correct heck it might be more fun. I can say once you have upped the cam to 218 duration @50 the engine really doesn't get going till about 3 grand anyways so going to 3 grand on the stall will make it rock harder. The 2500 stall will not hut you that much it will just slow down your take off speed out of the hole stomped. I had two 3500 convertors that were totally different, one from Hughes convertors and one from the GS club. The Hughes one would stall to about 2700 rpm then break the tires loose. The one from the GS club would foot brake to 3000 rpm before breaking the tires loose. The GS club one made me faster and the 60 ft was about 1.5 tenths faster. But on nitrous that stall became a 5000 stall. Now I run a 3000 stall with the 2004r trans. Lower first gear and if I run nitrous the thing won't zing to 5 grand when I stomp on it. That is why I say you could get away with a 2500 stall. You really won't lose that much in your 60 ft time. Check out Jim Wise on this site for convertors. They look good to me he has a whole article on it.
you realized there is only one person really qualified to make statement on this thread. that would be fox's den. why....engine alone will not get you faster done the track. how about suspension, tires, gears, aero? now go back and start over again.
Wouldn't a converter with a stall of 3000 slip alot around town and build up alot of heat? I called a couple of companies for some prices including Hughes and PATC. They recommended 2500 and/or 2600 stall when given my cars info including the cam,tranny,gear,tire info. I only ask because if I have to change the converter I want to get it right and not create other problems
Guys car runs mid 13s at 99 mph Underdogs "pure stock 350" runs mid 13s at 99mph Now I like Guy a lot and enjoy our conversations I think more folks should be looking to see what Underdog350 has done with is setup as opposed to a car with more cam,heads,intake,exhaust,etc Again I am not bashing Guy and respect him and his car,but you cant deny results
