Before my radiator froze and took a dump, with a 195* it would stay dead at 195*, and that's the factory temp, as far as I know, so I would be content with that. Is there any real benefits to running the 195 over a 180? Should I run the 180? It's a stock '70 SP, 'cept for a crower level 3 cam/lifters/springs, and TA double roller, TA distributor, and thicker felpro head gaskets. Any input as always is appreciated. I've run both in the past, just was wondering.
Put in a 180 and cover up the bottom of radiator in the real cold winter. I used to do that back in the day when I drove in the winter. I bought this car in 1977 so it has been thru a few winters about 10 of them after 77.
The question is what does the motors oil temp get up to when running any given temperature T stat , because if your oil temp does not get above the boiling point of water then the normal by products of combustion will load condensation that also gets produced in the motor with acid, and this acid over time will eat the soft metals in the motor like Bearings faces and any Aluminum like Pistons. If you think the factory engineer's new that a running a 195 stat was the right way to deal with this you'ed be right! Another part for running a 195 stat in a street motor is the ware factor. Once again the factory knows that up to 65 % of all the ware in a motor comes to be during the time that the motor is cold and up to normal temp. This means that a higher temp stat gets the motor up to normal operating temp faster .
I have a different opinion. The oil does not have to reach the boiling point of water to drive the water or un burned fuel off. Just put your hand over a pot of water on the stove. You'll hand will feel wet long before the water boils. If you have a good cooling system, you can run the 195* stat and it will run right there, but I see a lot of people who run 10-15* or more above the stat rating. So now you are running more like 210* normally. Add a little hot rodding or A/C to that and maybe your oil gets a bit thin, or you get a little detonation induced by the heat. I think 180-185* is the perfect compromise. Oil temperatures usually are 10-15* above coolant temperature, more so on a filled block. Coolant flow in the block really does cool oil.
Make sure you have good crankcase ventilation! Filtered air in and suction pulling it out. That is crucial to a clean crankcase. 180 thermostat, super good radiator, fan and shroud. Cold air to the carb and heat blocked intake, and you may survive pump gas without detonation.
91 octane, no detonation. 12* initial, 22* advance all in by 2400, ported vacuum advance. Last i checked was 54 total, initial+mechanical advance+vac. advance. yes that's a lot, but it doesn't seem to mind.
That you can hear. Is this the motor you blew the head gasket on? I’d limit that canister to 10* or so.
My 2005 Toyota Corolla XRS runs at 185 constantly, when it gets to 195 the fan turns on. Plenty of heat in the winter. With my 180 stat in my Buick it now runs at 190 probably because the radiator is 20 + years old now but Larry is right 195 now becomes 205 add in the air cond. and idle you could be at 210 easily. Get the oil that hot and add in the detonation from the extra heat and now we are hotter than ... One reason I use Mobile 1 oil
planning on it. and yes. it overheated because the radiator sucks, and i took it on an hour long journey at 70mph. it didn't like it.
