Good points. I wonder how many blocks have failed due to cranks flexing around? I have read in several reputable engine building books that crankshafts are often overlooked when building high end engines... Just because a crank does not break in half does not mean it is not going way out of whack at 6500+ RPM.
In this case, the lighter crank is being referred to is the stiffer one due partly to the extra counterweights distributed across the cranks lengths rather than hanging on each end. G force and it's negative effects on 'incorrectly placed for the new rpm and stress level' weights... trumps the illusion of a stiffer factory style crank. The old C-weight design is a carryover from when engines weren't spinning very fast. Obviously, an ideally designed Nascar crank has a different design than one meant for a heavier hit such as drag racing. Pushing the limits on the factory cranks usually shows up problems with the 2 and 4 mains. The massive weights hanging beyond the crank's overlap aren't helping the crank's strength any.
Take advantage of modern technology. A new billet crank will be lighter AND stiffer. You can spend as much money as you want and do everything possible to a factory crank,but you will still have a heavier,weaker piece. And if/when it decides to make an exit,it is taking other things with it.
I'm definitely not saying a stock crank is stiff .. a billet crank is way better .. I know some hi end builds have gone away from light cranks rods wrist pins and go for stiff first light second . most billet cranks for buicks are much heavier than cast .there is a balance somewhere in the middle
It also depends on how you order it,options,etc. The last one I ordered had all the bells & whistles,except for having the whole thing micropolished to look like chrome. It weighed a hair over 55lbs,compared to a virgin stock one that was over 70lbs. That's a huge weight difference when you are talking about a rotating assembly.
Another thing I would like to comment on is main girdles. The girdle needs to tie the main caps top the block,usually along the pan rail. A halo girdle by itself does nothing to keep the caps tight to the block,but it does help keep caps from walking back & forth. It also acts as a nice carrying case,like a six pack of beer,when you dump it on the track. You should always check and machine the caps as necessary,to make sure everything is flat and on the same plane. Otherwise,you will be inviting other problems.
NO. I never used a 2 step when I was running the stock block and crank because I was afraid what happened anyway.
Good.. don't use it now either with your 'hawk... bad news those things are. (woah, slipped into my Yoda voice there ) JW
