Straight 8...

Discussion in 'Classic Buicks' started by 66electrafied, Apr 22, 2009.

  1. 66electrafied

    66electrafied Just tossing in my nickel's worth

    Hi Mark,

    I've still got the 16s on my car, stock sized (760x16) wide whites. It does cruise around 3 to 3200 RPM, but it still sounds like the poor thing could fly apart at any moment. Could be the exhaust; - the original muffler just burned out and it sounds loud, I'll see if the roar calms down once I get a new exhaust system installed. Thanks anyway for the offer on the wheels.
     
  2. 66electrafied

    66electrafied Just tossing in my nickel's worth

    Nice to see another old original out there! Very nice! Thanks for sharing the pics!
     
  3. 1967GS340

    1967GS340 Well-Known Member

    Here was a very nice pre V8 car that was at the car show last weekend.
    Nice to see a car of this vintage that isn't a Ford, not that I don't love Model A's.
     

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  4. 64Electra

    64Electra Alex BCA# 44430

    Talked with my friend tonight. He said he took a rear diff. out of a '55 Roadmaster and It bolted right into his '48 super!

    Go for it!

    If you want more info, PM me and I'll give you his contact info!!
     
  5. 66electrafied

    66electrafied Just tossing in my nickel's worth

    I'll look into it; - thanks! I think I have an idea of how it can be done. If I find a suitable donor car, I'll PM you for the info!
     
  6. John Eberly

    John Eberly Well-Known Member

    Marc -

    It's only original once. I think you should maintain the car - fix stuff as necessary and change the oil and fluids. Don't try to "improve" it too much - it will never be a new car again, but that's the reason it's cool.

    The more "fixing up" you do, the less fun it will be. Just keep driving it!
     
  7. 66electrafied

    66electrafied Just tossing in my nickel's worth

    Right now that's what I'm going to do; - just drive it. The problem is that it is deteriorating fast; - the paint is getting thin, and it's starting to pockmark in some pretty strange places. I'm not even sure I should wax it anymore. There are numerous scratches on it, (particularly from idiots trying to lift the hood incorrectly from when it sat in the used car lot before I bought it) and the motor, while still good, leaks quite a bit and is getting tired. The chrome is milky and has surface rust issues. The interior is starting to show wear, and the front seat material is starting to split from my fat a** parking on it. So I was just scouting around to see if it was a good idea to spend the mega-bucks and have the car properly restored with a few running modifications, or try and sell it as an original unrestored car before it really comes apart.

    I used to work at a museum, and yes, I can appreciate the sentiment of it being only original once, but now it's going past conservation and getting into the preservation/restoration range. Here's the big problem; - I could spend upwards of $40 K rebuilding a car that would only be worth $20 K on a good day.

    Maybe I should set this up as a poll...
     
  8. rogbo1

    rogbo1 Well-Known Member

    Beautiful car! Boy is the bug biting me for one of these old strainght eights!
    Having had one and driven a few back in the 50s, there is nothing like that
    distinctive Buick straight eight whine and smooth shifting 3 speed.:TU:
     
  9. 64Electra

    64Electra Alex BCA# 44430

    There's nothin like it!!

    BTW~ They all leak. There's that old saying: "If your Buick don't leak oil, it ain't got any!" That's for Nailheads and Straight 8's. I'm not as familair with the later engines.

    As for the chrome: Gojo pumice hand cleaner and 0000 Steel wool. Count the zeros, there's four of them 0000 Steel wool. Just a little hand cleaner in your palm, dunk the steel wool, just a little dab'll do ya, and scrub that chrome, and quickly wipe it off. it should shine right up.
     

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  10. 66electrafied

    66electrafied Just tossing in my nickel's worth

    I thought that oil saying applied to Chevys, I wasn't aware that Buicks leaked that bad! Most of mine leaked a bit until I rebuilt them, then never again. This old straight 8 is sweaty, it doesn't pour oil like a Chev does. The added side benefit of a leaky engine is that the oil is always fresh.

    I tried the steel wool trick, that's how I was able to get the bumpers looking as good as they do. (great from 20 feet away) I never used the hand cleaner though; - I'll have to give that a try!

    Looks like it worked really well on that '59 in the photos; did you own that car? I'm looking for a nice 59 Invicta or Electra...
     
  11. 64Electra

    64Electra Alex BCA# 44430

    The '59 is owned by BCA Members Eric and Karen Bernard. It is an Electra Flattop. 4739. Had been off the road since the early 70's until he brought it back to life. It was from Canada. I'll post some pictures of it sometime.
     
  12. 64Electra

    64Electra Alex BCA# 44430

    Here's a couple

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  13. 64Electra

    64Electra Alex BCA# 44430

    I forgot to share this video I shot with my boss' Roadmaster. If you're easily offended, don't listen to the commentary! I'm in the back seat doing the film work.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-7mk8gVUdI
     
  14. 66electrafied

    66electrafied Just tossing in my nickel's worth

    Thanks Alex, - that is too cool!

    Enjoyed the video; - and the pics of that '59!
     
  15. 64Electra

    64Electra Alex BCA# 44430

    The guy I mentioned previously, that swapped the diff out of his '48 in favor of a later, more roadable ratio, is at it again! He's going to hav it done on his '41 Super Club Coupe.
     
  16. ornberg

    ornberg Member

    My 48 Special have a very low 4.45:1 gear ratio from the factory and I was lucky to find an axle from a 1950 Super with Dynaflow. The gear ratios on the Dynaflow equipped cars are often 3.40 - 3.60:1 and I think this one will be perfect in my 48. This ratio will lower my rpm from nearly 3100 to some 2400 rpm in 60mph.
    Here are some pics from the transplantation:

    [​IMG]
    This is the rear axle from a 1950.

    [​IMG]
    They have the ratio marked by numbers on the ring gear. In this case 47-13 is 47 divided by 13 = 3.60

    [​IMG]
    First remove the lock screw

    [​IMG]
    Take out the shaft

    [​IMG]
    The pinion spacer is located between the inner ends of the shafts and controls end play of axle shafts and have to be removed. Then push in the axle shafts to get access to the c-clips.

    [​IMG]
    Remove the c-clips by knock them in and let them fall out in the housing. I have to make this simple tool to knock them out.

    [​IMG]
    Take the axle shafts out.

    [​IMG]
    The propeller shaft is connected to the pinion through a splined joint and a pin. Knock the pin out and remove the propeller shaft.

    [​IMG]
    Cleaning up the housing.

    [​IMG]
    The 3.60 carrier in place with new gaskets.

    [​IMG]
    And finally sliding the torque tube back and connect the control arms to the axle again. Connect the brake lines and thats it.

    [​IMG]
    Its a totally new experience to drive the car after this work and in my opinion its worth the work by all means.

    I hope that someone can find these pics useful if theyre planning to do this transplantation.
     
  17. 66electrafied

    66electrafied Just tossing in my nickel's worth

    Thanks for posting those pics! You make it look easy, and it's nice to see it in picture form. I'm definitely going to look for a taller axle set now.

    Thanks!
     

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