Does anyone have one of these that they want to get rid of? Mine quit working. Also a delco stock electronic coil I dont know the number off hand.
Cool! I would like to get 2 of them so I will have a back up. Thell coil long no. is 1115207, short no. D514 and it says for transitior ignition. I will check the primary ohms if you have a coil.
I found three S-4 boxes. Two of them are the old style cases that just say HAYS on the front and S-4 on the back side. At present I have no way of testing them, but as I recall they all tested fine a few years ago when I was running one on my GSX. Sorry, I do not have a coil. Pick any 2 for $100 shipped. PM with address, and I will reply with payment details.
All wiring intact. Some scores on insulation on the older unit, but no bare wire showing. Looks like the terminals on both could stand some cleaning. PM sent. and will follow up with e-mail.
Jim, I put the stinger on there and it works but my problem was the pick up in the distributor had some rust on it so I cleaned it off and adjusted the gap to where if I turned the dist by hand slowly when the contact on the wheel passed the pick up it sparked. Now it starts! The Buick roars again! Thanks for the boxes. Now I have spares.
Ron. Glad you solved your problem. So it had absolutely nothing to do with your original module? I hate to see you spend money needlessly.
Still having problems with the Stinger. Does anyone have any new pick ups for the distributor or where to buy new ones. I'm thinking Mine might have an intermittant open in it.
You can buy those locally, ask for a pick up for a 76 318 Mopar. I bought one not long ago but it's a hair too tall. Take your old with you and compare. I recall the cheap pu was $8, the "premium" was $35. I tried the expensive one and it's too tall. I can make it work but I found another pu that worked. So I'll save it for another day.
Cool! Thanks I will try to find one. ---------- Post added at 09:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:58 PM ---------- The one that looks the closest is a cr106 But it has a plate on it so do you have to remove it from the timing plate? That fits a 78-79 5.2L
Yes, remove it from the plate. I haven't looked in a few years but the same connector is/was available from Radio Shack.
The zone has one fror 14.00 at the main store so I will take mine up there tomorrow and check it out.
New pick up and no spark, Have positive power at coil and light blinks on the negative when spining the rotor. I have .4 ohms on primary side and 12.74 k ohms from primary to center. Ckecked a HEI coil and it had .4 in it so I hooked up + & - with coil still in cap and grounded a screw driver. Spun the Dist and it sparked to the driver getting it close to center lead of bottom side of cap so I guess I need a D514 transistor coil. Got one of those?
Ron. Original 1115207 Transistor Ignition Coils are VERY expensive. GM Restoration Parts has a reproduction coil on the market, I don't know if function is equal to the original. Here is an Ebay LINK I also understand that a Borg Warner #1103 coil is a suitable replacement, but have no first hand experience with it.
The S4 ignition is only good for one thing and that is the retarding action. As far as an ignition sometimes it can be worse than points as far as firepower goes. Your best bet is wire the S4 into a MSD 6A box and get the good retard curve along with the spark energy of the high power ignition(any good ignition will do as long as it has a points input). The magnetic sender is a good thing but that pretty much has nothing to do with how well the box works. I learned about the medicore firepower when I ran N2O on my 455 back in the 80's. Without the N2O the S4 ran the car fine but when the N2O was activated the car couldn't get out of its own way from all the misfiring. I added a MSD 6 to the S4 and it was a whole 'nother ballgame. Smooth all the way down the track. I also had a 350 with a S4 on for a work car back then(the retard feature works just as well on the 350 as it did on the 455). One cold day I went out and the car wouldn't start after much cranking. Probably flooded a bit but the battery was taking a beating. Finally checked a spark plug wire to a ground to make sure there was spark. It was very weak. I slapped a spare points distributer and coil in there. The car started right up even with the battery starting to go. The S4 is a very early electronic system and with the technology they had when it was made the only way to do do what they wanted it to do(retard action) was to use that very low impedence(high current) coil which was notorious for going bad. It would still work but if you developed a miss under NA power the coil was going away. I changed a few back then. The good news is if you run the high powered ignition after the S4 box you can run any coil that the ignition is compatable with. Also I found out that in my '65 the resistor wire in the harness had too much resistance to feed the high current coil. The higher the current the greater the voltage drop across a resistance. The funny thing was it needed some resistance to work correctly which seems a bit strange. You can be sure I tried running it without a resistance wire and that never worked right. So I ended cutting my resistance wire in half. Here's some info that I've posted on other threads, some of which may be redundent. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...Ignition-curve-Need-some-input-details-please http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?249752-Stinger-S4-ignition-module&highlight=s4+msd6a+ignition http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?208846-Stinger-S4-replacement-coil&highlight=s4+msd6a http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?222812-stinger-ignition-setups&highlight=s4+stinger http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?212756-Stinger-4-info-please&highlight=s4+stinger
I got a coil coming but I never thought of trying that. I was thinking of running that Summit box cause I think it has retard built in it. The one thing I wasn't finding in other ignition boxes is that they don't have longer dwell firing of the coil all through the RPM range like the Stinger does. I have to run bigger jets with the Stinger. Did you notice that with the other boxes?
Different coil and no spark. Hooked the hei cap back up and was getting little spark from center post with a screwdriver while turning the distibutor by hand. All of a sudden snap and it started sparking like mad. The ground wire was a little frayed at the module connector so I pulled it out and soldered it back to the connector and attached it to the body ground. Had good spark. Put dist. back in and fired it up. ran for about a carb full of gas. I was telling the owner how it was running and went out to start it again and no spark. Now I have the wiring harness in the garage and haven't seen any problems but was thinking of making a new harness. Fred said if you don't have a .5 resistor on it you could burn up parts of the Stinger system when you are running an alternator. He said 12 volts max to the system. I have been running it w/alternator for years. I switched back to the Stinger than back to the Hays and no spark. If I make a new harness and still have problems I think I will have to try ICE.
