I'm looking at the picture of your distributor and it looks like there is no connector on the wires that go from the module to the pickup coil. The tan wire doesn't look like it's pushed on the module all the way, and it looks like the wire is actually touching the distributor housing. Make sure that the wire hasn't rubbed through and shorting on the housing. Also, make sure that the terminals from the pickup coil are not corroded where they plug into the module. Also as someone stated, the weights look stuck.
I thought the weights looked funky also. But....I'm not really up on HEI. Maybe they are the wrong shaped weights...they just don't look right to me. That plug...the new one...it's a different brand than AC? Like Autolite or something? It's longer, it would be harder to get in around the evap box. Some other companys have a wider range plug, like they say it's R44TS, but might range from 43-45.
"Its all done with smoke and mirrors..." I usually have my CANON power shot camera within arms length and take a lot of pics for reference... so heres the poop. The rusty advance pic was taken right after popping the cap off. If youll notice, theres rusty wear marks and someone made the comment that the weights look like they are on upside down, but shouldn't matter. The bottoms were actually cleaner, so they went back as found. The shiny pic no longer shows the rub marks and yes, the rotor does snap return to the retarded position on the weights and springs. To me, it feels like it should. I have NO HEI info as all the manuals I have are for points type systems. PLEASE! Feel free to comment or instruct me on what the heck Im doing. All the connections are clean and tight with a smidge of dielectric grease on them and under the module for heat transfer. No evidence of rubbing and all looks gooder than before. On to the timing end of things... for now, the way too heavy OEM springs are still in place and I don't even think they are a matched set. Hmmm. The damper was marked with Larry's' advice of 1-3/4" and 2" (?) advance marks. Having not yet being able to play with timing due to lousy running (and weather to boot!) I have not yet ordered lighter/faster spring kits and vacuum advance position lock kits. All I could do today was to loosen the HEI and advance it. I tend to use arbitrary numbers, so bear with me here... I advanced the HEI and immediately could tell the difference. 2-3 moves netted me a slight bucking on the starter (at temp) and retarded a bit accordingly. With the timing light set back at zero (I think!), the "Larry marks" are running at about the staic marking before the timing cover gage and the OEM mark is on the gage. That's at a decent 700 rpm idle. Higher speeds causes the marks to advance higher and eventually out of sight over the top of the damper. I know this is totally an amateurish method, but right now it runs wayyyy better and so far theres no sign of a detonation or octane knock as we used to call it. Now I am beginning to grasp whats going on here (Give the old Model T Ford guy some slack OK?). At speeds faster than idle the weights pick up advance. Got it. Heavier springs need more speed and light springs advance sooner. Got that too. Need total mechanical advance at around 2000ish? Im a little lost on the vacuum side tho... around town driving (lower rpm/higher vacuum) makes for a false advance for varying driving conditions? Open throttle and no vacuum makes it wait for speed to advance? FWIW... a model T starts four coils with a commutator grounding on 6VDC. Just like a crank position sensor. After a start, you switch to a magneto flywheel making 32VOLTS A.C.... YES, AC. At start up the "spark" lever is fully retarded (10* ATDC) and upon starting you pull the lever down to advance to about 2-3* BTDC. Approach a hill or too much load and the advance causes a bucking sensation (gonna bust the crankshaft!) so you run full retard (slower of course) chugging up the hill with every JPO and his brother blowing the horn and flipping you off LOL. All timing conditions are set by the driver and retarding to long will cause an overheat from firing late with hot (hotter) exhaust going out the manifold. Itll actually turn red. Anywho, tomorrow is a fuel pump day and sundry shop work. Feel free to check in and spank me hahaha; suggestions on the advance kit for beginners(? an oxymoron) is more than welcome too! Bill in TR
Believe it or not, but there are illegal Chinese knock-offs of brand name parts being sold as OE. That might be the case with the spark plug if it's the same part #.
Picked up the new fuel pump for $30.00 and need to order a re-curve kit... is this it??? Bill in TR http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g5212/overview/ What about an easy vacuum adjuster without getting too complicated?
So this one has the vacuum control cam instead of the bushings? The bushing method seems more complicated vs. a notch on the cam. Is this also the one that the allen wrench goes into the nipple to adjust the rate on the diaphragm? You've got an ardent student here coach; help me play pro ball; I need that million dollar contract LOL... Bill in TR
Yes, the cam limits the amount of degrees in the canister, and the allen wrench adjusts the rate or spring preload of the canister. The Crane instructions have you mounting the cam with one of the canister mounting screws, but a much better method is to mount it on the arm ahead of the pull link. ALL OF THIS is in the Power Timing thread Bill. I started that thread because of what seems like MASS CONFUSION about ignition timing. That thread can do no good unless you read it, but before you do, you need to actually understand the simple basics of how all those parts in the distributor work together to control the ignition advance with varying engine speeds. What I find is people want to work on their engines but they want to skip the preliminary basics and just get to the adjusting. I can always tell when someone either hasn't read the thread or just doesn't understand any of the ignition advance basics. They say school me, teach me, but I can't if you don't read up and understand the basics, and then read the thread. It's all there in the thread Bill. Do the homework. The coach can always ID the slackers.:grin:
GO TEAM !!! We had a start to this discussion about a year ago; at that time I perused the timing thred and then actually read it all a month later. So now Im gonna read it with some enthusiasm! Please just don't make me run more laps or any more burpees LOL... Seriously, Ive had so much on my plate that I never thought Id get this far. Now I am at the 98.7485 % stage and can start playing with the manly stuff. Now if that cheerleader would only show up....:shock: :shock: :shock: Bill in TR
is there a magnet under the pick-up? (Like the MSD blue pick-up) i had one crack in half...not easy to diagnose. Cheers!
I just thought of this. Do you have 12 volts at the distributor? HEI's require battery voltage so you can't use the original wire that powered the coil for the points distributor.
Yeah... theres a steady stream of 12V electrons to the unit at "crank" and at "run". It was soooo far retarded that if was probably wayyy advanced at the previous cylinder. Gonna order and advance kit and change the pump out today or tomorrow. By then, that yellow GSX from Mecum I won should be arriving... Happy April fools days!!! Bill in TR
Got way-layed for a few days, but gonna get going again real soon. Pat and I need to take a trip to Sheboygan in the next day or two and theres a speed shop there that has these in stock. Meanwhile, still reading away! Bill in TR http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/929G/10002/-1
Well, so far I ordered the Crane unit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-99600-1 Upon completion of the order I get a PM from them stating 8 days out of stock. Hmmm... Filed the order anyways, and then this morning I get another Summit PM saying "shipped with tracking etc..." Got all 12 fingers crossed! So then, I got my new fuel pump changed out today. Twenty five years ago I got a set of Snap On crow foot flare nut sockets in 3/8 drive. That is absolutely the first time Ive ever used them and couldn't have done the job without them! So they've cost me $3.00 per year to have... money well spent! (Do the math!) Well it WAS $3.00 a year. THAT was a good investment LOL http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/141599507211?lpid=82&chn=ps The new pump from CARQUEST was a decent fit (standard pump not a Stage 1 unit) sans the tweeking 1/4" on the fuel line to the carb. Only difference noticed was the stock unit has a riveted wear plate on the arm that rides on the pump cam and the new one didn't. I really doubt Ill see 75,000 miles on this unit anyway. Just an FYI thing. New rubber hose link from frame to pump and she lit right off. I was happy Bill in TR
I have a set of Snappy crows foot flare nut wrenches. Work like a charm. They are perfect to tighten the fuel line
I got a set, too! Excellent with long extension for P/S lines on the steering box. Your new pump looks like your old pump?
