Steering Gear

Discussion in 'A boatload of fun' started by jlv58, Aug 5, 2006.

  1. jlv58

    jlv58 Well-Known Member

    After a serious leak on my steering gear box (the oil content only lasting 15 miles...) I first wanted to change only the pitman shaft seal but ended ordering the full rebuid kit at Rockauto, with bearings, rings, seals, etc...
    I am quite proud of having done all this job alone, but I was unable o correct one of the major issue I faced even before the intervention: too much looseness in the steering.
    I know it comes from the steering gear because I can turn almost 4 inches the steering wheel before the pitman shaft moves. Therefore, I was wondering if a rebuilt such as the attached is worth buying, and will solve my problem ?
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7943345418&sspagename=ADME:L:RTQ:FR:1

    One Swiss friend told me he had more play with a remanufactured GM gear box than with his old one !
    Who can provide a reliable maker's address ?
    Thanks.
     
  2. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    There are two adjustments that can be made. Get a manual that will explain how to do it.
     
  3. jlv58

    jlv58 Well-Known Member

    That is what I have done. I fear that the balls as well as the pitman teeth are so worn that I reached the limits of the adjustment range. That is why I would prefer a new gear assembly.
     
  4. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    Is it like a normal Haynes manual or something special for just the steering? I have a similar problem where the wheel is always a little tilted and has excessive play in it. Is it tricky work to do? Is it worth getting a spare steering box and rebuilding that outside the car and the doing a swap?
     
  5. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    For the two adjustments, one is the sector shaft, the other is the worm gear to pitman arm lash. If you can push & pull the sector shaft that attaches to the steering colomn up & down ANY amount it is loose. To adjust you need to take a BIG pair of pliers to loosen the large nut. Sometimes I have to use a BIG dull drift punch & large hammer. Tighten the plug in the center just until all play up & down is gone, then go just a smidge tighter. Now drive & feel the steering. Too tight??? Still loose?? If it is loose after all up & down movement is gone, time for a box. If it's not the next is the bashlash. Loosen the 5/8ths. nut while holding the screw with a rather large screwdriver or allen wrench, whichever is required. Hold the screw from turning & loosen the nut. Tighten the screw 1/4 turn & road test. Still loose??? Go another 1/4 turn. How can you tell if it's too tight???? While going straight down the road you will have to constantly have to correct your steering direction. On the gear it has a high point in the straight ahead position to try & maintain good road feel & control. When you go too tight you are constantly going back & forth past this built in "Tight" spot.

    Tom T.
     
  6. jlv58

    jlv58 Well-Known Member

    Telriv, your explanations are much better than the ones of the "brick" manual ! I think one of my mistakes is to have tightened the pitman shaft latch atjuster too much. I have exactly the feeling you describe needing to correct all the time, and it becomes almost dangerous...
    There is just one question that is still unclear: what about the balls in the worm ? their wearing cannot cause some losseness too ? The manual says I need to alternate black balls and shiny balls. For me, they were all the same (between gloss and shiny). A friend told me that when they are new, the balls have 0.01 mm difference, but once worn, they have the same aspect, and the balls diameter and order is not of a critical importance.
    Can these balls explain the play in the steering wheel ? I made your recommended test, and my sector shaft does not move at all when pulling or pushing it.

    Thanks gain.
     
  7. jlv58

    jlv58 Well-Known Member

    I use the 1971 Buick Chassis Service Manual All Series (my Bible). There are about 20 pages on the steering gear.
     
  8. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Sounds like it may be time for a box. Try loosening up the pitman adjustment 1/4 turn & see what happens. if that don't do it, get a box.
     
  9. jlv58

    jlv58 Well-Known Member

    Tom, I loosened the Pitman screw and if the play is still there, the behaviour of the car while driving is much more sane. I think I will go for a new box soon or later, as I like perfection :laugh: but I can drive as is for the moment. Thanks again. :TU:
    Last question : is it possible to find a set of 40 new balls (20+20) on the market ?
     
  10. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    I haven't been able to find any new. None of the steering box rebuild places will sell them to you. The only option would be used otherwise.

    Tom
     
  11. jlv58

    jlv58 Well-Known Member

    Finally received a steering gear box ordered at Rockauto, since Smartin's contact never answered. Rebuilder is A1 Cardone.

    Now everything is perfect. The steering has the precision of a Porsche's !!!(almost :grin: )
    It is day and night. I am back to get some fun driving this car...even on our narrow French roads.

    The strange thing is that the old one had a bit more than 2.5 steering wheel laps from one end to the other, and the new one has 4.25 !!!

    Which one wasmounten on the Cenurion 71 ?

    The feeling is almost the same when driving on the road (outside the looseness issue), but it seems that the demultiplication increases when turning completely (when parking for example). as if the demultiplication in the middle range was more direct.
     
  12. Phil Racicot

    Phil Racicot Well-Known Member

    4.25 TURNS? :eek2:

    Jean Luc, my 1975 Electra's steering does exactly 3 turns from lock to lock. (I assume that a 71 Centurion should do the same). My '67 Riv does that in 3.25 turns. Even my '65 Wildcat's steering is faster than your new steering box at 3.75 turns from lock to lock.
     

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