Starting problem...

Hey guys,

In my 71 Skylark 350-2bbl sometimes, I haven't had the car long enough to know exactly when it does it, when I turn the ignition nothing happens. When I turn the ignition to "run" position 2 lights come on "Gen" and "Oil" when I try cranking "Gen" gets brighter and "Hot" comes on during the duration of my atempting to crank it. I tried starting it this morning and nothing happened, last night had it running no problem first try. What could it be? Thanks

 

Sounds like the starter is going out.

I had a Chevy van when I was a teenager that did that, so I carried a long stick to poke the starter when I needed to goou:

 

Many times, the wiring by the starter has gotten brittle and worn, and no longer making a good connection. Inspect the starter wiring harness and replace if needed. Check your starter solenoid also.

 

Turn your headlights on and see if they dim when you try to start the car. If they dim the starter is trying to run and the problem is likely the starter going bad. If the lights don't dim the solenoid, ground. neutral safety, or thewirng could be the problem, and you will need to work through them one at a time. You did not say if you hear the solenoid clicking when you try to start and nothing happens. The idiot lights come on as a bulb test when starting the engine or leaving the ignition switch on, so that is a normal condition.

 

The headlights don't dim and neither does the interior dome light...When I turn it nothing happens no clicking or any sounds for that matter.

 

Ok, cleaned all the wires around the starter and battery but still nothing...so now what?

Also my negative terminal from the battery goes to the A/C bracket...is that normal?

 

I still say the starters bad.

As long as the main ground wire is bolted to clean metal on the block or brackets youre good.

 

You need to check for power to the small wire on the starter when the key is in the crank position. If you have power ,the starter is bad. Note that the big wire should have power all the time.

 

I believe the wire you should be checking is purple. In any event it will be on the "S" terminal of the solenoid.

The first place to start, for me, would be to check the ignition switch and proceed downstream to the neutral safety switch, then the solenoid. If it started strong the times it did start, the starter may not be bad. When you check the ignition switch, you can put the probe into the guzinta side of the neutral safety switch. It's an easy point to get at. You may need to move the ignition switch slightly towards the steering wheel if the "start" contact is getting fried. But that's just prolonging the agony; if that's the problem, just replace it. Sometimes the rack and the sector gear at the key lock can be worn to the point where the switch won't engage. That's another possibility. You can verify that at the same time you are checking the ignition switch. Just run the key from off to on and back and look for backlash.

 

Was finally able to get some quality time with the Lark. I finished taking off the vinyl top and was itching to do something else so I took a look at the fuse box b/c I'm having some other electrical problems... I noticed some harnesses were unplugged but as far as what they are to/for I have no clue. SO moving some of the wires around I had the key in the ignition and gave it a quick turn and BAM started immediately...It was kind of late so I didn't want my neighbors passing that eviction petition around again so I'll try some of the tests you guys mentioned above in the morning and will report back.

 

Update:

I unbolted the starter motor with the wires still connecting, so I could "start" the car without getting a faceful of hot exhaust (exhaust ends at the headers...).

The big main wire has a constant 12V of power. The small wire has 0 volts when key is in the "on" position, but when turned to "crank", the small wire sees 12V of power.

There is a third wire ("R" terminal in the manual") that gets 5V in both the key "on" and "crank" position. (0 volts in the off position).

Also gave the starter a few whacks with a hammer while a friend cranked it over; no joy.

Any ideas on how to check the key ignition?

 

As long as its off...

Put a new starter on it.

 

Second update:

Put the car in Reverse and tried cranking - the "S" terminal gets no power (and obviously, the starter motor does not turn). I believe this to rule out the neutral safety switch.

Local Autozone has a Duralast one for $45 (Duralast gold for $75) or check in NAPA to see if a better quality brand is available. I'm considering replacing it since all signs at the moment point towards the starter.

Any other suggestions before I buy a new starter?

 

I'd try to borrow one as a test before spending the cash.

 

Replaced the starter, started right up! Thanks everyone for all your help and guidance!

 

Well, it seems my problem has returned... :ball:

I guess I'll have to keep trouble shooting and try to find the culprit.

 

See post #10 for a methodical approach.