start/ignition problems with my nailhead

Having problems with my 66 electra 401 nailhead. Story goes..Rained all night,left for work and the car ran terrible. I figured just the cap is wet. Drive home and sprayed the cap out but still runs bad. I do a complete tune up and check the timeing, still runs bad. I keep getting a chattering noise from the starter/solenoid so I change them out. Now the engine turns over real slow and the solenoid chatters like the battery is low. Changed the battery and install new cables. Same thing, slow revolutions and solenoid chatters. What am I missing here?? Maybe the resistance wire??? Opinions welcomed.. And can someone explain what the resistance wire does? Jerry

 

Sounds like the starter itself. Did you change it also or just the solenoid?

 

Yep, changed them both, same noise from both of the new and old ones. Jerry

 

Wierd, sounds like maybe two different symptoms, odd they hit at the same time unless there's a commonality somewhere. Have to stew on this one a bit.

Devon

 

Ya, its got me and 2 profesional mechanics stumped.

 

Have alternator tested, including diodes. Have battery load tested.

Jim

 

I have changed the battery. How can the alternator cause these symptoms?

 

I had a similar problem with slow cranking. Turned out to be a bad connection at battery cable on the horn relay. The bolt hole in the cable end was flared out, so the cable wasn't making enough contact with it's mate.
How's your ground? a rusty block (or just painted) where the starter bolts on can hurt electrical conductivity. Clean the area where the neg cable attaches to the block well.
To test the bad ground theory, use a jumper cable from the neg battery terminal to the starter.

The purpose of the resistance wire is to limit the voltage (and current) that flows thru the coil and points. It's between the ignition switch and coil. It's bypassed during cranking to provide extra 'ooomph' to the ignition. You should have 12 volts at the coil during cranking, and 9 volts when it's running.

 

Thanks, I'll check the voltages. Ya, I did the jumper cable trick and also tried the jump box directly to the starter , with no changes.

 

I hate to suggest it, but could the engine have internal problems, like damaged bearings?
You might want to try turning the engine over with a breaker bar to see if it turns freely. good luck.

 

Turns over with a socket pretty easily.

 

I don't think this car has a fuseable link? Or have I missed it somewhere?

 

Finally got some time to work on the nailhead again. I put everything back on the car, rebuilt starter/solenoid, battery, cables. Now it does nothing when you hit the key. Also no headlights, dome, or taillights. AHHHAAA... I think whatever my electrical problem is has finally went out all the way. I'm pretty sure the fuse block/wiring harness is fubar, due to corrosion. Gonna change the fuse block/harness next.

 

How is the ground? is there a ground strap from the engine to the body? I'm not sure in your era but the later ones have a strap from the back of one of the heads to the firewall.

nate

 

Yes, its good. Jerry

 

Do you have a voltmeter?

Here is where to start:

1. Battery - fully charged? Cables clean and tight?

2. Disconnect the two wires from the starter solenoid. The larger purple one is on the "S" terminal, for start. Put one probe from the volt meter on the disconnected purple wire and the other probe to a ground. Have someone turn the key to start. You should have 12 volts there. If not, the problem lies up stream. Do the same for the same for the smaller yellow wire, but have the key in the run position. It should have at least 9 volts. If not, the problem lies upstream.

3. The next place to look is the neutral safety switch. You should have voltage on this switch on one side when the car is off, and on both sides when the car in running. If there is no voltage there, you need to go upstream again.

4. The next place to look is the ignition switch. There should be voltage on one side when the key is off, and on both sides when the car is on.

The starting curcuit is simple, and has no fusing. A few minutes with a voltmeter and a wiring diagram will help you pinpoint the issue.

Oh, if you crossed the wires at the solenoid, nothing happens when you turn the key. Large wire to S, small wire to R.

 

Thanks , that helps alot!!!

 

Both the poor running and starting could be caused by a bad ground cable. If the insulation is balooned at either end that is a sign of corrosion damage. if you attatch a meter positive to the starter and neg to the engine block, and it doesn't show at least 9 volts while cranking you issue is with the cables or the battery itself.