Is there a way to install Stage II headers, (2 1/8 tubes) in the car with the engine already bolted in? Perhaps tilting engine from one side to the other. Car is a 72 lark, non AC. I removed the motor for some minor work and installed it but forgot to install the headers in the engine compartment before sticking the motor in. I have an aluminum firewall that sticks out quit a bit and it makes installing the engine a real bear. Can't get the tranny up high enough. Given these facts, and that this 58 year old man suffers mightly from CRS, I hate to pull the motor again. As always, 'preciate it all.
I put headers on a '74 Camaro when I was in high school. We didn't know what we were doing, but got them on. That was the only time we've done headers... so we still don't know what we're doing, lol. Anyway, what we did was raise the front end quite a bit and put the headers in from the bottom. Looking back it certainly wasn't bright as we didn't have jack stands and we had the front a couple feet in the air. Maybe if you have access to a lift or ramps it might work. Maybe not. Just a thought.
Stage 2 Headers I tried the exact same set-up you have - '72 GS, 2 1/8" Stg 2 headers - and I still had the front sheet metal off my car. I could not make them go on without pulling the motor. I did find a neat way to use bungee cords to hold them in place while I lowered the motor in position. Otherwise it's a 3 person job. Hope this helps. Have fun.
age II header installationb Thanks Jeff. Ya, had to bite the bullet and pull the motor. I hate that. Got it done yesterday and it took about 3 hours as I work on my own. What a pain. Still, a friend of mine told me to stick a black board in my shop, and with calk make a list of things needed before moving on with the build. Actually, it's a good idea but with one p;roblem. Hell, I couldn't remember to look at the chalk board. LOLo No:
off-topic It's funny that you mention that- recently I decided that I pull my engine so often, that I should come up with a Procedure to do it. Next time I pulled the engine I wrote everything down (including every tool required), and ever since pulling the engine has become an easy task. I have it down to a science now- the only time I timed it, it took 2 hours 20 minutes from draining the coolant to having the motor on the stand. The only help I had was for someone to help lift off the hood, and I did not rush at all. (Now if only I could get my wife to help and hand me tools while I'm under the car- I could probably do it in under an hour!). -Bob Cunningham bobc@gnttype.org
It's funny that you mention that- recently I decided that I pull my engine so often, Bob, ya, your running against the clock with those motor changes. It's "tuff" doing it by yourself isn't it? My wife was and is always willing to help me. Problem is, when I retired, all my build stuff is several miles away and it's a pain to have her come down to help me. Still, June has on occassion. Anyhow my friend, I now have a list. Hopefully though, your not as old as I am and won't need to write stuff down as often. Take care.
Engine removal procedure My car is set up with fuel injection, headers, and nitrous (and ARP bolts) but no A/C, therefore my procedure and tools will be a bit different than everyone elses. But who drives twin cars anyhow? When I get the chance, I will post the list (it's on a different computer). You can then modify it to suit your own car. I gotta say that when working with this procedure, it makes engine pulling actually a fairly pleasant experience. The only pain is during reinstallation when trying to get the motor over the motor mounts while the tranny is in the way. -Bob
'preciate it Bob. Always looking for more information. The first time I put a 455 in my 66, we bent an inch and a quarter pipe trying to push the engine back over the mounts and onto the trans! :jd:
Last time I pulled my motor it was under two hours from draining coolant to engine stand. And I did it with the hood on! It can be done. Just put the hook as close to the carb pad as possible, Lift a little, pull out a little, lift a little, pull out a little, etc. When you get to the core support it's easier if you turn the engine so the side is facing the core support, then lift it the rest of the way. As for the motor mounts, here's what I did when I put the motor in. Leave the motor mounts off. Lower the engine and line it up with the tranny, then bolt it to the tranny. After that, lift the engine up as far as you can and install the motor mounts. I have solid mounts, no A/C, and headers, so maybe this won't work for every body. Hope it helps. Have fun.
