Will socketless hose hold up to the pressure. If you hook up the rear to the heater core this may disrupt the flow to the front going into the front of intake. roll that thru your brains for a while.
Yes, no pressure concern using socketless hose. It's typically rated to 250 to 300 lbs, depending on the exact hose you get. Regular heater hose is all that is required. You would probably have to use -12 or bigger socketless hose, and steel fittings, so that the smallest dia inside the fitting was the same size as a regular 1/2 pipe nipple and then the heater hose. Or you might not get good continuous heat. Won't have ill effect on the cooling system, as the return is back to the water pump cold side, and not enough volume is flowing to really influence temps. I do believe there were several factory applications that took water off the passenger side rear of the intake, and I personally have done that with aftermarket intakes for many years. JW
More thought on this, if the water goes thru the block around the cylinders then goes up the back of the block and up into the heads at that point, the cooling of the heads cools from starting at the back and works its way up, to the front of heads and then into the intake to go back to the radiator, ok got it? Now if you add the hoses either connecting the back to the front or connecting the back together then bringing it to the front port on the intake WILL this take away cooling or will it disrupt the cooling from the water going from the back of the heads to the front. Or will it cool faster since more water is flowing back to the front of the engine. But, would the hoses connecting the front to the back SLOW the water down going from the back of the heads to the front causing the heads to get hotter. Remember, the water should be cooler at the back of the block before going thru the heads or is it? If so, then if the connection is made from the back of the head to the front will the cooling now be less for the heads. maybe a temp gauge need to be added to the back of the head just to see if there is a difference. Roll that around your brains for a while and tell me what you came up with.
Your cylinders would be progressively hotter rear to front. Your hose would let the coolant bypass the head completely.
I don't think there's any way to improve the cooling of the heads without MAJOR fabrication. The answer is to get and keep temperatures down at the recycling point. My crazy neighbor however is always talking about coating the inside of the heads with some sort of gel or something like that. He may be on to something.
Steve, that was exactly what I thought, Thank you for your input on this. It just looked like a good idea to do given there was a way to connecting the back to the front. It may work just connecting the back but then why, does not seem to do anything. I also do not think it would be a good idea to use the rear port to go to the heater core the sam thing would happen, take coolant from the head before it goes thru it. The best bet would be to just put a temp gauge there. What I would like to get is one that will just go right on the motor. I was looking for one anybody see one?
Hey Demko, After what Steve wrote in here I would rethink the idea of using the rear port for the heater. You could be taking away water from that side of the head before the water goes in to cool the head off. This may not be a good idea. I think this should be looked at before this is done. You could cause a overheating problem in that side of head and maybe start to cause a lean condition.
The fuel rail for the AED carb runs smack in the middle of the heater hose barb in the front of the intake. I don't think theres an issue with picking up water at the rear of the intake. If anything, the function of the heater may be effected, but that's probably it.
many cars across the gm line left the factory with the heater core pulling off the rear port. it might be easier if we all tossed 20 bucks in a hat and had mike @TA Perf re cast the intake with out those ports and put this issue to rest.
My theory is as long as the cooling system is filled completely, as it should be, there wont be any issues. The heater core is just another item in the "cooling circuit" Also remember, if the heater is in the "cold" position, the heater control valve closes, which renders that portion of the cooling circuit "closed off"
I wonder if they were cast back there because they knew there might be an issue with the Holley style fuel inlet being right in the middle of the barbed fitting for the heater hose I stared at mine when I first put it on (SP3) with the AED, no way to hook that hose properly to the barbed fitting. With the Q-Jet it was fine.
The factory intakes pulled heater water from the rear until 1970 then moved it to the front. It was moved for a reason.
Water will move the path of least resistance. The system is in a loop and I seem to agree if the pipe was moved to the front then there must be a reason for it. I am thinking about just sticking a engine mount temp gauge in back just to see if the temps are different than the front. The only reason there is a valve to cut off the flow to the heater core is because there is an air conditioner in the car. Cars without air do not have the valve in there. don't you guys think that pulling water from the back of the heads will stop the constant flow thru the heads? My idea was to connect the back to the front, but seems to be counterproductive.
the back is already connected to the front through the cylinder head itself. if you connected the back to the front via an external line you'd be shooting yourself in the foot. you'd would be bypassing the coolant from going through the head. it would flow through your line and back in to the intake and into the radiator. the idea is have the coolant flow through the head to COOL it.. your line would skip the most essential job of the cooling system.
The same reason I told Demko to rethink using the rear port for going to the heater. It will bypass the head and go straight to the heater core. I am not going to do this. I am thinking of sticking a temp gauge in the hole. This would probably work if the engine was a race engine and the block is filled and they want to move the water as fast as possible. The coolant would still go thru the head whether the line was there or not, but it may flow slower which may cause the head to get hotter. Hey look, the holes were there I wanted to do something with them besides just plugging them up. lol
There you go! ... when I eventually get to making the swap on mine, I'm pretending those rear coolant holes aren't there! Should work fine just the way the stage 1 is plumbed. Guy, did you experience fuel line interference on yours with the Holley? I'm still going to try and fit the Wilson spacer under the Holley. With my L88 drop base cleaner, I hope it will just make it. Phil Green, (TXGS), put his SP3 on with a Quick Fuel carb, and he hasn't mentioned anything about the fuel line being in the way.
