Soaking Wet Noob here in So. Cal with tons of 401 nailhead Q's

give the rings a chance to seal. your doing good if its just a small drop most all leak. the best brand graphite rope seal is the one to use.

 

A few strong pulls on the highway (like passing a semi on a two lane) will help seal rings.

 

@TrunkMonkey
Thx for that info. I used the Prestone stuff. I think it’s just a flush. I didn’t know that “chelating” term until now. I will have to order your stuff.

That inline filter thing is a good idea too. I had been given that idea before but didn’t know if guys run them.

Sweet Nailhead tho. Is that yours?

 

I have about 3300 miles on it now. How long is this “chance to seat” usually take?

I used the new style neoprene seal & found a replacement oil slinger.

 

Thank you.
Yes. In my 1964 Perevertable GSwannabe Prototype MkI™.

 

I’ve been mashing my car around town (on/off the highway). I take it to work occasionally (25 miles) & it runs great. I’ve clocked about 3300 miles on it

 

Have you done long and WOT hard pulls with it?

When a cylinder is honed, it has the "peaks and valleys". After initial break in (cam/lifters), you also need to run it hard enough to get the "peaks" worn down to "plateaus". That requires a few hard and long pulls to build up just enough heat and friction to accomplish that.

Dyno pulls are good as it puts a "real world" load on the engine as it pulls to WOT and holds that for a few seconds, then back to idle to cool/transfer heat and then repeat.

So doing a few WOT runs on the highway like you are passing a truck, accomplishes the same thing.

At 33000k miles, you won't hurt it, and if it is a ring seating issue, that should fix it. If not, time for cold/warm compression testing and possibly a leak down.

If it only puffs and does not use a lot of oil, or look like a Wright Cyclone on start up, you should be OK.

Any plug oil fouling?

 

i wouldn't be upset about the rust in the block, its over 50 years old. a lot of motors do that after hot tanking then getting hot and cold again. a few flushes should take care of it. as far as the valve guides if there to tight that another story, that falls on the machine shop. dont forget nailheads didnt use valve seals from the factory, so you need a little extra clearance to be save i would think

 

I have done WOT pulls. Months ago I finally got my kickdown & switch pitch torque converter in order & my sick head thinks I have a Hot Rod haha. Not sure if jumping on the freeway like a bat outta hell is considered “long pulls”

I only have 3300 miles so far

I will do more WOT pulls then try compression tests. Good idea

I haven’t fouled any plugs yet. Or at least I don’t think I have. I will pull some plugs & check. Another good idea.

Thanks

 

I am not receiving email notifications of anyone’s replies. Any suggestions?

Edit:
Found them in my JUNK mail

 

Did not know that the rusting was the norm after hot tanking. I do like the sound of TrunkMonkeys Michalada idea haha

Machine shop fixed the valve guides. Well I think they did once I called them on it. No issues with them anymore.

 

To clarify the "rust/scale". A correct "hot tank" uses caustic soda and will remove the loose rust and scale.

A lot of shops are not doing this any more and most simply degrease the block do the machining and another degrease, sometimes hot water pressure wash and or steam clean then spray a preservation oil if returned to the customer to assemble.

On my nailhead, I changed pulled the radiator to change the upper neck from 90 to a straight and when I drained, I had some rust/scale particles in the coolant, (when I dropped the radiator off, I had them check and flush it, so it was clean when I put it back in) .
I flushed a few times (no t-stat) and after installing the t-stat and radiator, I ran it and checked by draining coolant and more scale.

That was my reasoning for getting the filter and running the Evapo Rust Thermocure.

That effectively has eliminated to issue.

In the "old days", I never had this problem. But to be fair, I never had a 55 year old engine to deal with.



BTW, David. What oil did you use for break in and what are you using now?

 

Ok. I will have to ask the machine shop for some clarity on what they did for me.

I used Vavoline 20/50 racing oil for break-in. Drained after break-in & filled with fresh stuff. Machine shop said that oil comes with high zinc content for our flat tappet lifters.

 

OK. Not to alarm you. (only applicable to break in discussion) That oil has "anti-friction" modifiers. Most "break in" oils do not have them, for the purpose of allowing the engine to have the best friction required for proper break in. The ZDDP is required for "pressure" type loads that (flat) tappet cam/lifters encounter for proper protection, while the anti-friction is not desired or needed for ring seating and other friction/wear in requirements.

Does not mean that any damage was done, only that optimal ring seating may not take place.

Can you describe the "smoke on start" as best as you know?

-How long must it sit after last run before it smokes.
-Home much and how long does it smoke.
-Color of the smoke.

If you can video the event that will be a big help.

If it only occurs only after sitting for a while, on cold start and then stops within a second or two, you are not consuming a lot of oil, plugs are not fouling, it does not "puff" smoke after idling for a few minutes nor under heavy/continued acceleration, you are likely fine for many years.

Many things can cause very short "oil smoke" events, like rings not indexed correctly, too much ring gap, valve guides, crankcase ventilation issues, sucking oil into the carb from incorrectly attached vacuum line. And rarely, leaking/seeping head gasket. (and intake gasket on intake/valley sealed engines, but not a nailhead).

 

DAMN those anti-friction modifiers!! Haha

Impressive info!! My jaw dropped. Thank u for this. Hope I don’t miss anything.

So can I buy some “break-in” oil now & run it while I do some WOT driving to create more “friction”? Will that help? I know u said I haven’t caused any dameage. But can I start over? Can I get a Molligan? haha

Earlier u mentioned a dyno. I’d like to try that. But I switched to a TBI type EFI system about 2000 miles ago & learned that the TBI is only one half of the equation. The other half being the electronic distributor. Now I gotta wait til after the holidays to buy that.

The time frame varies after a drive for the smoke to show up. It never happens when engine is cold on first start up. But I can drive somewhere & park. Start it up before it gets cold again & there’s the puff of “white” smoke. It’s literally just a short 2-5 second blast/puff of smoke. It doesn’t happen during idle at a light or when I rev up RPM’s.

I will try a video in a few days.

I am not using much oil. I have not needed to add any oil. I still haven’t had my first oil change either. I have not checked my plugs for fouling. I’ll get on that in a couple days too & report back.

U mention leaking/seeping head gaskets. Since I got my car running, I have never gone back to retorque any bolts (i.e. head bolts). Days ago I did notice exhaust manifold bolts were loose. I also noticed a little oil drop like formation at the right side of block near head/block line. But I thought it was possibly from the hose of an aftermarket oil pressure gauge I installed on same side? Should I torque heads again? That means take valve covers off to do that right. Not sure if rocker assembly is in the way.

 

Stock head bolts will require removal of rocker arm and valve springs. Unless you know this to be the source, I would not recommend it.

The issue of the break in oil was more "just FYI". At this point, you do not want to run "break in" oil, it would really not serve any (good) purpose.


I am thinking it is valve guides. A bit of seepage past the valve guides at shut down, and burning off on a warm start. Not a big problem.

If your machine shop is honest, they should provide you with everything they did. Methods, procedures, parts replaced, parts repaired or reconditioned. Ask them to provide all this information.

At this point, I would not do anything that "breaks" the engine, just drive it, and see how it goes.

There are no "red flags" indicating anything serious at this point.

The "seized valve/bent pushrod" has me wondering how they dealt with the valve guides. Some shops will ream and knurl them. It will work, but can result in oil getting past.

Realize I am putting out several variables, and some or none can relate to your issues, as this is "trouble shooting" without being able to see, observe and verify things first hand.

Sounds like your engine is in pretty good shape overall and I would take the "wait and see" approach to this.

As far as the electronic distributor, depending on your EFI, some make better use of being able to control the timing, but you need to focus on one thing at a time, and make changes to one thing and get it "right", then move on to the next. O good plan would be to make a list of things you want to do, post them and let the group recommend the priority to take. Some things need to be done in specific order to provide the best results.

And when you make the list, provide the manufacturer/make/model/part number of the items your working with, or considering buying. The whole system benefits from the best possible sum of correct parts.

And welcome anyone else's input in your journey.

Meanwhile, don't overthink, and enjoy the car!

 

your not still using 20-50 oil, are you?

 

Did you install rebuilt rocker assemblies? Some re-builders modify them to put out a shower of oil (vs the original scant amount) and without valve guide seals you will have a smoker.

 

@TrunkMonkey:
before your reply I thought to try & retorque the head bolts that are accessible. I started from center & worked outward. Only one center one moved a hair.

I will have to dig up my receipt from the machine shop. I think they listed what they did. About them being honest, I’m not sure how honest he is. When I seized the one valve he asked me to take off the head & take to him. I asked if he followed Russ Martins direction on valve guide tolerances & what he found. He claimed he did & gave me a round about answer of what he found.

I used the Holley Sniper & planned on using their distributor. But I was gonna call them first to ask if it’ll work on our Nailheads. I will come up with a parts list & post it later

I have been enjoying it. Although, the car is still not complete

@gsgtx:
Yes I am still running the Valvoline 20/50. That is what machine shop recommended. Should I stop using it?

@322bnh:
I am under the impression that my rocker arm assemblies were rebuilt by the shop. If u are asking if I had them install different rocker assemblies instead of the stock ones then no. They are stock rocker assemblies & as far as I know they were rebuilt by the shop

 

I run 10W-30 with ZDDP.
The nailheads typically are built to 30 weight. 20-50 is OK until your next oil change, but a 30W with ZDDP is a better option.

Be mindful on re-torquing only "some" head bolts. You do not want to create a problem where one didn't exist before.

Please ask questions and let folks add their comments and direction, then ask until you understand what they are saying, and what you are doing.

You have an engine that is operating OK, for the most part. The old adage; "If it's not broke, fix it 'til it is", might find itself tapping you on the shoulder on the side of the road on a dark and stormy night. You don't want that.

BTW, oil weights.

Back in the 70s I ran Castrol GTX 20-50 in a well warmed over Olds 330.

Never had any issues. Rode it hard and put it away wet.

But, oil blends were different then.