373 gears check eaton posi check rebuild kit check extra inner pinion bearing...in-transit or so im told worthless richmond gear video.......in the the trash where it belongs 1971 Buick all chassis service manual check inch pound torque wrench check foot pound torque wrench check jegs pinion depth check kit... check brass drift...A.K.A old brass fitting at the end of a piece of pipe. check episode of Extreme 4x4 that goes threw a rear end rebuild check balls......well the girlfriend has those on a key chain lolou: well I'll tell yeah right now im not doing a right up on this cuz this is my first, but hopefully not my last time. its a chevy 8.2 rear end. I already got the new bearing races in place and it was actually easier than i thought it would be. Any input?
got any friends that have done it before so you get some guidance. nothings worse than thinking you have a job well done doing your rear end then test driving it and it sounds good when your taking off but when you slow down it sounds like a tornado siren whining. if you end up doing it alone post pics when you start checking your patterns and let some of the pros look.
Just did the rear on my 64 Skylark, so I know what you are going through. One thing to pay attention to is the thickness of the shims that are removed and which side they came from. That will give you a good start when you do the install. One of the books I read said not to try to achieve a perfect wear pattern because it will drive you crazy first... Seriously though, if you take your time and check preload, and then shim the RG for backlash, hopefully you will find that the patterns will be just fine and, if like me, after that rebuild you will feel like super mechanic. Have fun and if any problems, JUST CALL JIM (monzaz). Like I said before, if I can do it, anyone should be able to. Don 64 Skylark, 300/355, sp 300, and now 3.36 w/ Eaton posi
i just got some valvoline high performance 85w140 2 quarts should be plenty just dont forget the posi additive scott
Got a big question to ask. Is it possible to "not need" any shims when setting up pinion depth, cuz if I did all my measurements right (and I'm pretty sure I did) I do NOT need any shims to set a nominal pinion depth. so yeeeaaaaaahhhhhh...... If you guys think I should just set it up with the right back lash and check the wear pattern (by posting picks of it) to see if it's nominal I'm definitely in favor of doing that.
Mine used a single thin shim (8.5"), but I did mine from the pattern and backlash and not from pinion depth.
ok i just got the ring gear installed on the carrier and everything, question now is, how easy is it to put the original shims back on either side of the carrier bearings, to me it seems a little to tight so i didn't want to force it. waitin to hear from some one.
If the carrier you're using has never been set up in that housing before, you are starting from scratch when it comes to shim thickness. Your first goal is to determine the total left + right shim thickness required to get correct carrier bearing preload, then by adding X to one side and subtracting X from the other you can alter ring gear engagement with the pinion. The only time you can count on using the old total shim pack thickness is when reinstalling the same carrier into the same housing. Devon
just set my backlash to .007-.008 Now to check the pattern do i have to put the other pinion bearing in along with the yoke and old nut?
