So get this...

Discussion in 'A boatload of fun' started by Deathon4wheels, Mar 1, 2008.

  1. Deathon4wheels

    Deathon4wheels Outlaw of the Riviera

    Today I yanked the engine from the 67 Riv. I already found out that someone had messed with the trans, it should be a switch pitch, it has the socket that plugs into the two t-tangs but there is only one big tang, and now with the engine out I see in big yellow letters that someone named Joe did something to the trans back in 1983. Here comes the kick when I'm down, there wasn't a 67 motor in it, it was a 1968-1969 430 without big port heads, really demoralized. Is there any hope to salvage my glorious hopes of having a Riviera with noticeable gains in power?
     
  2. RAMKAT2

    RAMKAT2 Randy

    Hey, it still has 430 cubes, just like the original. The big port heads with standard size valves are not that much different than the standard port heads, especially on a street motor. Just build it. Intake, cam, compression, & exhaust improvements will work on the motor you have. If you really want some power switch to a better breathing set of aluminum heads. Bump the compression a little more and run E-85 if you want. How fast do you want to go? And how radical a motor can you live with and still enjoy the car?
    A lot can happen to a car in 40 years. Stop worrying about the picky little perfect world details and get back to enjoying the car. A 67 Riviera is one hell of a fun ride. Trust me, I know.
    If you just have to have a 67 vintage 430 and switch pitch 400 trans, make me an offer I can't refuse and I might sell you the one out of my 67 Riviera. Mine is going back together with a 462BBB and a 200-R4 trans anyway.
    Later, Randy
     
  3. Yardley

    Yardley Club Jackass

    Hey Zach, please sign your posts so everyone here can be on a friendly first-name basis with you.:beer

    Like we discussed, you can only go so far with any build using stock heads. Unless you port them, you'll still have small valve heads and stock runners. But they'll work well on the 455 you have.

    The cam you chose is real nice. And before spending the $$ to have the heads machined for dual valve springs, be sure you are happy with "stock heads".

    But that cam with those heads, dual springs, headers and 2.5" exhaust will give you about 380 HP in my best estimate, give or take. The stock 430, while rated at 360, was really about 300.

    Be sure to curve the distributor to be all in by 2500 RPM - with total mechanical timing at about 34*.

    Pay extra careful attention to the installation of the cam bearings, rod and main clearances and resizing of the rod and main caps (align-hone the mains if possible). ARP studs on the bottom end are a cheap insurance policy as well. And be sure your timing cover and oil pump are in good shape. How about the pickup tube? Is it OK? be sure they use the little gasket when they bolt it to the block or you'll have NO oil pressure. That little paper gasket can let your engine live or die.

    And please check the pushrod lengths, and don't just stick stock pushrods in there. They might work fine, but you should know that before you bolt it together and fire it up.

    And have it balanced with a NEW flexplate. And use a NEW balancer from TA as well!!! For the price, those 2 things should never be reused, as the flexplate cracks and the balancer dries out and can let go.
     

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