I've been racin' my Riv. since new. Of course it didn't see above 5400RPM's then or now. If you really want to get nick picky about it a "Nail" chain could be changed at every tune up because it will stretch that much. Tom T.
So I took her through some paces this evening. Very responsive now and lights up the tires off the line but detonation is terrible especially 2nd and third gear throughout the rpm range. I retarded timing to 4 initial and 27 total mechanical advance. It was better but still noticeable. Took it down to 0 initial and 23 total and it is almost gone but it isn’t nearly as responsive as it was of course. I always use premium gas but don't really want to blend racing gas with it. Im thinking stiffer springs now to slow mechanical advance to 3000rpm instead of 2650. It probably has a lot of carbon buildup over the years. It is much more responsive now than it was though and doesn't stumble off the line now that vacuum advance is working properly.
Chain stretch. I had to replace the front crank Rope seal with TA's neoprene seal. Bought a new TA timing chain cover. When we inspected the timing chain it was stretched where we had to replace it. It only had 3,500 miles on it. I had a Buick engine builder tell me BBB are bad about stretching timing chains. I guess it might pay well to go with a double roller chain?? VET
The biggest mistake guys make when measuring total advance is to assume all the mechanical advance is in when it is not. You need to temporarily put the lightest springs you can find in the distributor so that you can be certain the weights are extended all the way out to their limits. Then set the total advance to what you want. You should do all of that without the VA connected. Then put the heaviest springs you have in and set the idle as low as it will go without stalling. The reason for the heaviest springs is so that you can be sure the weights are fully retracted. Measure the initial advance. Subtract the initial from the total and you will know how much mechanical advance is built into that particular distributor. Now you can adjust total by moving the initial because you know the amount of mechanical advance. Now make full throttle runs from different speeds and listen for ping/detonation. Play with the spring tension and total timing to eliminate it. Once you have accomplished that, THEN hook up the VA and tune that for amount and rate. The 69 engines seem to be very prone to detonation. Might be the large amount of piston to deck height they have stock.
My vacuum advance has the bushing and is limited but I will check mechanical advance bushing. Maybe 23* of total mechanical advance is too much?
Yes I can double check that again. Did my distributor come with a mechanical advance stop bushing? Is the hei mechanical advance bushings compatible with a points type distributor?
Probably not, and no to your questions respectively. A bushing can be installed. The brass one in this kit is nice. https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-92...lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Definitely not, but I believe there is 7-11* more in that distributor. You probably don't have a mechanical advance bushing.
Thanks so much Larry. I will get one and check spring varieties. Do you think it would be worth trying manifold vacuum instead of ported on my vacuum advance?
Why not, it only takes a few minutes to switch. Part throttle will be no different, but manifold will boost your initial, which you might need if you have to set the initial low to avoid over advance at higher RPM. That distributor is supposed to have 30-34* of mechanical advance in it. (See post #11)
Wow 30-34 seems like way too much. I will definitely confirm it isn't getting that high by installing lightest springs and try manifold vacuum. Thanks again.
Original stop pushing is still there looks only slightly worn. It seems like someone should make an egg shaped one
No VA, just mechanical advance. The specs for that distributor say 30-34*, look at post #11. VA is not included. There will be no vacuum advance at WOT since vacuum will be at or near zero.
Installed new bushing. Thinking of modifications to the extra weights in the kit limit total advance? Just to try it?
My older brother told me again today that it pinged since the day my grandma bought it in 69. Tune ups never helped. Always had premium. Only way to stop it was to retard it WAY down.
Today I put my stiffest springs on and tested her. Timing initial set at -2 and all in around 26 now at about 3000. Almost no detonation noticeable but so sluggish and even sputtering when I punch it while moderately accelerating. Then I changed vacuum advance source from ported to manifold vacuum and WHAT a difference! Timing still the same but very responsive and even chirped the tires at second gear! I think I'll leave it alone for a while now and enjoy it Thanks everyone