I get alot of squat with the HRPARTSNSTUFF anti-rollbar now that I have the air out of the bags..... What if I added some slapper bars as a positive stop.....seems like I am getting wasted motion.......any ideas? Bruce
Bruce, How are your 60's now a days? My buddy got the HR anti-roll installed on his 10.40 72 Chevelle and it really picked up the consistency in the low 1.40's..... What is your average?Best? What control arms do you have? I think those slapper bars for A-body's look silly....
Gary 1.37 best to 1.44 Put the HRPARTSNSTUFF lower arms on and had the Edelbrock adj upper last 2 yrs... If I put air in the bags it tends to bounce on them.....seems like I need a positive stop of some kind, plant the tires and pull the front end up....alot of squat can't be a good thing, right? I hate to put stiffer springs or shocks and lose my weight transfer which seems essential with the anti-roll bar. Bruce
Bruce Now I see why you asked about my suspension. I don't think any "squat" is good. If the body is coming down the rear tires are coming up, which would ultimately unload at some point in high power/heavy cars. I agree with you on the air bags, making the car "bounce" again in high power/heavy cars. IMO air bags are a crutch and a guess to make work. I probably will not help you any, other then to say something is a little strange if you are getting the squat. I have changed my (12-way adjustable) shock settings all over the place and it never affected the way the car launched visually. It only changed traction, as in helping when my control arm bushings went away, I was able to stagger my settings more to compensate. In other words, I don't think the rear shock settings would make a difference in the "squatting" of the car. I changed my rear springs at the last NSCA race, as I had trouble with the tires hitting the fender wells when I changed my control arm bushings the day before. (not real sure why it mattered) I raised the car in the rear about 1 1/2". It made absolutely no difference in the sixty foot times or the way the car launched. I still had a lot of "body separation" when the car launched. Probably should ignore all of this anyway as I just noticed your sixty foot times, my best to date is 1.42.
Up front? Equally if not more important is whats going on up front? What have you guys done with the front suspension, i.e. springs, control arms (upper and lower), control arm bushings, travel limiters, and shocks. I'm in the middle of making major changes up front, and going AWAY from the Dick Miller setup I have in the rear. What are you guys doing up front so I know if I'm headed in the right direction?
Jim I havent really tuned a lot on the front because the front tires are in the air anyway! :grin: However I have factory A-arms with stock bushings, (which I will be changing) the nuts on the uppers are only snug. I have the small block Moroso drag springs. As far as limiters go, I cut about a third of the factory rubber off and put them back in. I stuck with the rubber because I couldnt stand the banging when the control arms hit upon launch with a solid limiter. I have the 12-way adjustable shocks which are staggered with the drivers side set at 3 and the right side at 0. I havent even tried anything else yet. I know there is a lot of adjusting to do; I just havent gotten to that point yet. I also desperately need to get the front end aligned.
My front end has the Moroso SB springs, stock control ams/bushings, Koni shocks, no sway bar. I added to the snubbers.....to reduce and limit the rear squat. Jeff, before I put the HRPARTSNSTUFF bar on I ran a 70/30 on the driver side front and a 90/10 pass side (Lakewood)....helped level the car without resorting to much airbag pressure. Bruce
Re: Up front? Jim I was just wondering why you getting away fro the DM setup? I thought that was the bomb? John
DM's I liked the DM setup but in a high powered setup you have to use the lower setting on the rearend bracket. I had mine on the upper setting and with nitrous it hit the tires so hard it unloaded them half-way through the 60ft. DM's will get rid of rear end squat. you just have to experiment with the upper and lower settings to see what works best for you.
I run a glide with a 4.30 gear. The 10.5 tire class that I run is set up on a 1/8 format. I like it that way and I get alot more abuse out of the Buick block. I'm sure its what is keeping me from going through motors all the time.
