Could something like this help fix our oil problems with roller lifters??? http://www.schubeckracing.com/rollerx.html
TA has made a newer roller lifter that has a longer skirt on it. When I was re-doing my engine I had the old style rollers (short skirt) and was talking about this with Rob Chilenski (Stage 1 Auto, who was doing the engine) and Doug Hecker. Doug had installed the newer style rollers as he also stated there can be an oil bleed off problem with the older short skirt style. Anyway I needed 2 new lifters as mine were damaged in a previous blown engine. I was told that TA now only has the newer style with the longer skirt. So my wallet was going to replace the two damaged ones, (left overs in stock) but under pressure from Doug (who LOVES to spend my money) and advise from Rob and Jim Weise and a few other racers I opted to buck up and buy the newer style with the longer skirt. It was the right move when dealing with higher HP Buick engines. Skimp on small things and I will no doubt pay for it big time down the road, so I'm glad I did it.
How much longer is the new skirt? Does it actually cover the roller like a hydraulic lifter or the Schubeck? I like the concept of the Schubeck. If I could keep the oil under control by just changing the lifters and restricting the pushrods, I would go that route over all the extra plumbing, oil lines everywhere, and drilling my mains up through the lifter galley. uzzled:
The only problem I see is the key way this is a good idea for a motor with good lifter bores.I dont like the idea of grinding the slot down the lifter bore giving a place for the bore to break other than that their a nice design and well made I have looked at their stuff at the PRI show very nice.
The only problem I see is the key way this is a good idea for a motor with good lifter bores.I dont like the idea of grinding the slot down the lifter bore giving a place for the bore to break other than that their a nice design and well made I have looked at their stuff at the PRI show very nice.
Your right but depending on the specifics, what keeps you from puting the notch on the wall side of the lifter bore. I would think it wouldn't matter which way the lifter faces. I e-mailed them and might call them later to see if they can give me a little more insight.
I think you'll end up running into the oil passage.If possition the keys any higher on the lifter body they'll come out of the bore at max lift.With out a block sitting in front of me it's hard to say but I don't think we have room. Now if we can have them make the lifter where the keys were on the axle side of the lifter we would have something.
As usual, Rick M. is confused. The new style T/A lifters are skirted higher at the TOP, to avoid the top of the lifter body digging into, and thereby wearing through, the valley side of the lifter bore in the block. This is really only a problem for guys running a very large lift cam, usually a roller, but not exclusively. I knocked a lifter bore out a few years ago with the big roller I sold to Rick (don't worry Rick, it'll be fine. probably.), but I believe Bobb Makley also took out a lifter bore a few years ago with a big solid lifter cam. See Rick, I fixed your mess, AGAIN! ou:
Rick, On my engine the lifter bores are sleeved with bronze liners. The sleeves have a .080 to .100 hole drilled in them for oiling the lifter and rocker arm assemblies. This eliminates the oil loss issue. But it does cause other problems that have to be addresses. When the sleeve is installed it reduces the size of the main oil passage therefore overhead oiling must be installed to overcome the restriction. I will try to attach a picture of how the Olds guys supply oil to the top of there engine. I like this idea because we have WAYYYY to much oil going up and not down where its truely needed. Later
John who bushed the lifter bore for you?Did they use a BHJ fixture?I would be interested in having mine done.
Info I talked to Joe Schubeck and here is some more info. Roller Diameter. Standard roller has a .725 roller on it and the RollerX has a .710" which is too small to make a difference on making the cam seem smaller (reducing duration). On the keyway slot. The keyway only is required when the roller is on the base circle so he is machining the guide high on the lifter so it can be installed on the wall side of the block if I chose. Not that I feel it will matter since it won't be low enough into the load portion of the lifter bore to matter. Oiling. He is machining mine with a .013 oiling hole for the pushrods to reduce the amount of oil bleeding through the lifter into the top of the motor. Weight. They are more than half the weight of the standard roller lifter. Stock roller weight is 135 grams wereas RollerX weight is only 60 grams! Surface area. The RollerX has flat surface that has no cutout on the load surface which will spread the load and eliminate lifter bore gouging and should control oil better since more contact area between the oiling passage and any openings. This should help in keeping the lifter bore in one piece. I was very impressed with the engineering behind the lifter and abilty to customize them for oil control and keyway arrangement so I bought a set. :TU:
Rick, seeing your new avatar pic for the first time has me now reconsidering the title I gave myself of "Wheelie King". I'm staring at your wheelie and I can't look away! :jd:
Sorry about that. :moonu: I just now noticed you had wheelie king tagged on your name title. You can keep it until i get back and get things running again. :Brow: Right now my car's the garage king.
Deal! :TU: BTW, didja ever consider wheelie bars? My upper bars are both a little bent.....the right one a little moreso than the left, even though they're spring-loaded, and I can't imagine what kind of damage I'd be doing to the rest of the car if I didn't have them! I know that in order for me to have bent chromemoly bars like that I must be hitting them HARD, so you are just OUT of control!! :laugh:
YOu not allowed to run wheelie bars in Limited street. The suspension and converter can be adjusted so it won't stand up that bad. The trick is finding the "SWEET" spot to get the tires to hook without over powering them, then pull into the power and keep adding power to them to keep them planted. I raced with guys running at 3000 lbs and running 1.21-1.24 60fts on a 10.5 non-"W" tire. I'm shooting for 1.25-1.27 60fts when I get back. Wish me luck and that I win the lottery.
Here is one of the coolest pictures you'll ever see featuring Rick "I like this Nitrous stuff" Crawford..... Those lifters look like a good idea....I might need some education on those this winter.
