How possible would it be to swap out the single Master Cylinder for a dual Master Cylinder from something else? What do I need to know about setting up the brake lines for this? Has anyone else done this? Which Master Cylinder do you recommend for a '66 Riviera? Car has power drum brakes.
You need to put a proportioning valve up front. Not sure but the rod that goes from your break pedal to the booster might be a little different. Take all the parts from your donor car. And look at it before you rip it all out so you have an idea of what stock looks like.
napa #36239. napa master with internal valve all you need. Used it on my 64 Skylark, same setup. About i inch longer rod dropped about 1 inch down pedel arm.
Perfect!! I've been thinking about this same thing. I want to make my brakes safer on the 64, but since I'm going to do a front disc swap I don't want to spend the money for an after market conversion part. I don't even know if I'm going to use my frame when it's all said and done so it may be a couple years or so until I have the new suspension and brakes working in my car and I don't like the single reservoir setup in the mean time. Just checked. $68 for the master cylinder. Not a bad price for a huge upgrade. Did this thing come with the right length rod?
All you need? As in no prop valves, equalizer blocks, etc..? Sorry, I don't know enough about upgrading brake systems. I only know how to replace what's already there. I can get that MC, bleed it, bolt it in and go?
A little misleading. You need to block the rear port on the brake line block.(below the m/c on the fame) Run the front line(as it comes out of the m/c) to the rear. Good time to change all the lines. I just used pre-made from NAPA. Run the rear line from the m/c to the block, which is really just a splitter for the front. I took a lot of measurments and thought the stock rod and attachment point would work,in my case it didn't. I have a drum/drum with a really old booster and it stops great. I wouldn't know if it works with a disk/drum setup, naps should be able to tell you.
I've got drum/drum as well, with the original MC and booster. How did you get the rod to work when it didnt line up?
I wish I knew the name of the connector I used, got it from a hardware store. It's just a block threaded at both ends. Got one the same thread as the booster rod, got some rod the same to lengthen everything. It worked from the lower hole on the brake pedal arm but looked more inline when I moved it down a bit. Just drilled a hole the same size as the stock one.
I am currently doing this conversion to my '66 Skylark Special, but it's not power breaks it's manual breaks. Here is the thread. I got my kit from inlinetube.com. I'm not allowed to post links yet, the threads title is... "Manual single master cylinder to dual master cylinder conversion "
Look to Mc Master Carr on the web for any hardware you could ever dream about possibly ever needing... Robert
Here's the link to 66special's thread. http://v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=183320 Thanks for that. I have a better understanding of how it hooks up now. After reading your thread, im now a bit confused. So what Skip is saying up above is that I can use the stock pushrod for my single MC with the Dual MC, but I have to modify the point where it attatches to the pedal, right?
I had to lengthen it to work, I changed the pivot point for a cleaner angle. It may vary car to car I don't know. Hook it up stock and go from there. Over time anyone could have changed parts in our cars, you just never know. Good luck.
