I bought the car with the holes covered and purchased trim from several sellers on here so i can put the side trim back on the car. My question is hole locations for the doors. The front fenders obviously have 3 holes each for the "spears", the rear 1/4's have 9-10 holes up the side for the retaining clips, but the doors only have two holes at the very front and very rear of the door. I have pulled the door panels and looked inside but i do not see where any holes may have been covered up or filled in so do the doors only have the two holes to keep the trim on? Does anyone have pics of their car with the trim off and what does the trim retainer clip look like? Thank for your time.
If its a 65 Skylark the trim will be the thin side trim and their should be holes in the door. The clips I think should be the small spring clips that will slide inside the trim. Dont have a picture.
There were 2 styles of clips that held on the siding. One style of clip pressed into oval holes, like the ones on your quarters. The other style clipped onto studs that look like nail-heads sticking out of the sheetmetal. I'm guessing you had the stud version on your doors and that they were simply grinded off, which is why you can't find any evidence. Additionally, there are holes on each end of the door that used either a spring clip or an oval retainer bolt + nut. If you really want the trim reinstalled then you can buy/borrow a tool to attach new studs, then get the clips from eBay.... or get new doors clips: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BODY-SI...ccessories&hash=item27d63b969a#ht_2472wt_1162 Jeff ~
On my 65 Skylark you can see on that the trim is not on the door. Where the trim goes there are two holes through the door at each end, and 4 evenly spaced studs in-between for the trim to attach too. -Chris Paalman
Auveco makes suitable (metal) replacement clips for the ends of the doors... The plastic ones are not reproduced and are often broken. I will provide the part # once I get home. Thanks.
The studs make sense now. Are these the same studs as used for the front and rear glass trim? If so i can weld my own on with my dent puller/stud gun. I would assume these are the correct clips for the studs as shown above? http://www.opgi.com/skylark/1965/fasteners-hardware/exterior-clips-screws/A10220/ ---------- Post added at 09:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:26 PM ---------- Would these also be the correct trim fasteners for the rear 1/4 and the very front of door and very rear of door? http://www.opgi.com/skylark/1965/moldings/hardware/CH2097/ ---------- Post added at 09:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:33 PM ---------- Thanks for the pic for reference.
AUVECO # AP2619 http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?163561-65-Skylark-door-trim-end-clip-suitable-replacement
I don't know if they are the same studs or not... The green clips look correct but I've never used them. The yellowish ones on eBay are hit/miss, where some of them don't clip to the molding very well. Yes, those will work. You can probably get them at your local auto-paint / auto-parts stores.
Thanks very much fella's. Welding on the studs tomorrow. Sanded the doors down to bare steel and i found the outline of the old ones, also found some very small dents i could not see before so filled them in tonight. Tomorrow some sanding, weld the studs on and prime the doors.
This is the kit i bought from Snap-On about 10yrs ago: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=676000&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog Works quite well. Never welded the trim rivets before but as well as this works it should not take any time at all. Most likely take more time to draw the line and mark for each stud than anything else. For dent pulling it is well worth the money although i did use one system better than this that used a wiggle wire. http://dentfix.com/viewitem.asp?idproduct=42&product=Deluxe+Stud+Welding+Kit This kit you tack weld the lower valley of the wire along your dent and then use the claw puller to grab the high points of the wire and pull. You can pull a large dent at once with it or if you adjust the fingers of the claw you can pull different parts of the wire at different times. Cost over $1k but well worth it if your doing your own repairs.
Got them welded on today. Took longer than expected of course. The correct tip for the welder was missing so i had to use very small needle nose pliers to hold the stud in place until i got pressure on it from the welder so i could weld them on. Then i found if i held the button too long "like 2 seconds" the stud would actually melt down flush to the panel so it was useless. After about 6 studs i got the timed technique right. Here are my results.
